Sherry revolution: Evans selects the wines to try
1 Callejuela, Blanquito, Manzanilla Pasada, Sanlúcar de Barrameda 94 £ 17.27/50cl Vinissimus Yes, this is actually Sherry. But the Callejuela brothers are significant to this story – local growers whose wines were brought to a wider public by Willy Pérez and Ramiro Ibáñez. It’s a lively manzanilla, full of iodine, almonds and fresh herbs.
Drink 2019-2024 Alcohol 15.5%
2 Barbadillo, Mirabrás, Pago de Santa Lucía, Cádiz 2016 93 £ 19.15-£ 21.90 Exel, Les Caves de Pyrene, Wine Freedom Grapes briefly sun-dried, fermented in manzanilla casks. After time on lees, 18 months in stainless steel with flor. Shows the camomile and brioche of manzanilla, plus apple and a hint of sweetness. Long, dry, savoury. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 14.5%
3 Cota 45, Ube Miraflores, Cádiz 2015 93 £ 17.45-£ 19.95 £ 21.50 (2017) Bijou Bottles, Exel, Les Caves de Pyrene, The Good Wine Shop Part of a series of wines by Ramiro Ibáñez made from some of the great pagos. This has a significant quantity of grapes grown on marine fossils. Aged in old oak casks.
Drink 2019-2023 Alc 13%
4 Muchada- Léclapart, Vibrations, Miraflores Alta, Sanlúcar de Barrameda 2016 93 N/A UK www. muchada- leclapart.com A biodynamic Champenois combining forces with an Andaluz former architect. Five days of skin contact elicit a spicy, textured wine, with suggestions of oranges on the nose, to match the colour. Very promising. Drink 2019-2025 Alc 13%
5 Equipo Navazos, La Bota de Florpower 77, MMXV, Miraflores La Baja, Sanlúcar de Barrameda 2015 92 £ 24.99 Alliance Wine The grandparent of many subsequent florled Palominos. Delicately aromatic, as you would expect of an unfortifed manzanilla, but more powerful, with chalky notes. Distinctive style. Drink 2019-2021 Alc 12%
Hidalgo, Las 30 del Cuadrado, Balbaína Alta 2016 92 £ 16.25-£ 21.99 Exel, Harvey Nichols, Thorne Wines A fascinating collaboration: well-known Riojan Basilio Izquierdo fermented the Palomino from El Cuadrado vineyard in manzanilla casks and left it on its lees for six months. Plenty of nutty, manzanilla notes but with lower alcohol and more finesse. Drink 2019-2021 Alc 13.5%
Forlong, Blanco, Cádiz 2017 90 £ 16.99-£ 17.99 Davis Bell McCraith, Noble Green, Thorne Wines A young project, committed to organic production, in Pago Balbaína. Delicate and floral with complex fruit character – much more so than typi cal Palomino. The range also includes a sparkling Palomino that’s great fun. Drink 2019-2021 Alc 12.5%
6 Valdespino, Ojo de Gallo, Cádiz 2016 90 £ 15.99 The Solent Cellar, Thorne Wines From one of the most famous pagos: Macharnudo Alto. Unfortified, fermented with indigenous yeast. A weak layer of flor develops over six months. Nothing to do with fruit; even in youth, it’s fresh, mildly yeasty, with a delicate chalky character. Develops well. Drink 2019-2021 Alc 12%
Primitivo Collantes, Viña Matalián Blanco Seco, Chiclana, Cádiz 2018 90 N/A UK www. primitivocollantes.es A family business from Chiclana de la Frontera. The latest generation is bringing in something new. In addition to classic Moscatels and very fine Amontillado Fossi, Matalián is a lively, straightforward, dry Palomino. Drink 2019-2021 Alc 11%