Decanter

Pinot Noir puzzle

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The only red blend I’ve ever come across that contains Pinot Noir is Silk (66% Pinot, 18% Malbec and 16% Petite Sirah) from California’s Ménage à Trois label. Why are Pinot Noir blends so rare, and are there any other red blends you know of that contain Pinot Noir? Lindsay Dawn Schultz, by email Andy Howard MW replies: It is certainly true that red blends are rarely made with Pinot Noir, although it’s clear that Pinot blends well

as it is a major component in many top Champagnes. Why is this? The answer is in part related to Pinot Noir’s unique character – thin skins, pale colour, refinement and elegance, silky tannins, a complex and distinctiv­e nose, notable acidity, ageworthin­ess and high quality. Winemakers want to make wines that emphasise these qualities, rather than dilute them with other varieties. Commercial­ly, Pinot Noir is a strong ‘brand’ and most producers prefer to focus on 100% varietal Pinot as this is a better marketing message. Growing conditions provide another reason as the key requiremen­ts for successful Pinot viticultur­e are different to many of the varieties more commonly used in blending – Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranill­o.

You’re right that there are few blends using Pinot Noir – however, a particular­ly delicious one is Doña Paula’s Blue Edition Velvet Blend – an Argentinia­n blend of Malbec, Pinot Noir and Bonarda. California also has a history of blending in some Syrah – a wine labelled Pinot Noir can legally be just 75% Pinot Noir (although this generally applies to cheaper wines). Meanwhile, the French AC of Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains must contain at least one-third Pinot Noir, but here it must be blended with Gamay prior to fermentati­on.

 ??  ?? Above: Ménage à Trois Silk, one of few red wines with Pinot Noir as part of the blend
Above: Ménage à Trois Silk, one of few red wines with Pinot Noir as part of the blend

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