McCoy’s top dozen from Howell Mountain, Napa Valley

Arkenstone, Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2015 90 N/A UK www. arkenstone.com Intense citrus and dried herb flavours, sparky lemongrass freshness and aromas of white rocks, with rich texture from Semillon and 11 months on the lees. Drink 2019-2025 Alcohol 14.5%

1 Abreu, Las Posadas Howell Mountain 2013 96 £495 (ib)-£822 Alex Marton, Hedonism, Liquid Assets, Seckford This blend of five Bordeaux varieties is the most striking and nuanced of Howell Mountain’s super-expensive cult wines. Powerful and structured, impeccable balance. Drink 2023-2040 Alc 14.5%

2 Dunn Vineyards, Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 94 £ 116.59 Berry Bros & Rudd I love this wine’s seamless freshness and floral aromas, savoury mineral and graphite flavours, harmonious tannins and long, rich finish. A more mid-weight style than usual, reflecting the vintage. Drink 2020-2038 Alc 14%

3 Outpost, True Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 94 N/A UK www.outpostwines.com Deep, dark, rich and wonderfully expressive, showing way more finesse than the estate version. Combines intense violet aromas, velvety fruit, vertical structure and a long, mineral finish. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 14.5%

4 Tor, Cimarossa Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 94 N/A UK www.torwines.com Owner Tor Kenward has been buying fruit from the Cimarossa Vineyard since 2003. The 2013 vintage is all refined spice, graphite and fruit, showing plenty of verve and a silky, elegant structure. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 15%

5 O’Shaughnessy Estate Winery, Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 93 £79 (ib, 2015) Four Corners Wine Creamy-textured, smooth and suave, this well-priced blend of seven red varieties boasts complex layers of dark chocolate and rich fruit. It’s polished and long, elegant rather than weighty. Drink 2020-2038 Alc 15% ➢

6 Cade, Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 92

N/A UK www.cadewinery.com Despite its alcohol, this Cabernet (with a little Petit Verdot and Merlot) is succulent and almost juicy, with an appealingly lush, ripe red cherry and plum character. It’s a much better buy than the producer’s powerful Estate Reserve. Drink 2020-2028 Alc 15%

Retro Cellars, Elevation Petite Sirah 2013 92 N/A UK www. retrocellars.com This terrific wine shows how expressive and delicious the Petite Sirah grape can be if treated seriously. The Howell Mountain signatures of rich plushness and structure are here, along with layers of dark cherry and liquorice. Drink 2020-2029 Alc 13.5%

7 Cakebread Cellars, Dancing Bear Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 90 £ 112.50 Corney & Barrow The blackberry element you find in some Howell Mountain Cabernets dominates this rich, concentrated wine that’s surprisingly drinkable now. This is one for braised short ribs on a cold winter night. Drink 2019-2030 Alc 15%

8 Turley Wine Cellars, Cedarman Vineyard Zinfandel 2014 90 £ 54.10 Hedonism This brooding and spicy blend of Rattlesnake Ridge and Dragon Vineyards fruit is good value. Past vintages have sometimes been thin, but this 2014 is powerful and pure, boasting minty aromas and brambly berry fruit. Organic. Drink 2019-2027 Alc 15.5%

9 Adamvs, Quintus Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 89 £ 172 Hedonism This middle-tier cuvée, a blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon with 8% Cabernet Franc and 4% Merlot, is a barrel selection of the vineyard’s five soil types. Notes of mocha and espresso with a ripe, almost sweet lushness; would be more vibrant with less new oak. Biodynamic. Drink 2019-2028 Alc 14.5%

10 La Jota, Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 89 £76 Hedonism, New Street Wine Shop Sadly, the silky-textured Cabernet Franc isn’t available in the UK. But this vintage of the savoury, earthy, berry-inflected Cabernet Sauvignon shows how much Howell Mountain Cabernets repay ageing. Drink 2019-2027 Alc 14.5%