A taste of the top 2016s in bottle
Médoc 1 Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac 1er Cru Classé 100 £675-£750 Bon Coeur, Farthinghoe, Farr Vintners, Jeroboams, L’Assemblage, Laithwaite’s,
Lea & Sandeman, Millésima, Montrachet The sweetness of fruit comes through even at this early stage. Ripe blackberry and cassis pulse through the palate behind the tight construction of tension and classicism given by high acidity and plenty of tannins. It has ripeness and a sense of promise but, as is often the case with a young Lafite, it’s not giving a lot away and we can expect it to age for many decades. Extremely accomplished – one to cherish. Matured in 100% new oak. Drink 2028-2045 Alcohol 13.5%
2 WINE OF THE VINTAGE Château Léoville- Las Cases, St-Julien 2CC 100
£ 180 (ib)-£ 355 Millésima, Montrachet Nothing under 20 years old supplies fruit for this grand vin. Right from the off it expands upwards and outwards, showing polished black cherry and cassis, slate, liquorice and rosemary. It’s mouthfilling and almost less austere than others,
yet it’s a serious wine. The tannins close in at the end, showing this is built to last. A great advert for Bordeaux; for me the wine of the vintage. Drink 2026-2045 Alc 13.7%
3 Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac 1CC 99
£425 (ib)-£648.33 Farr, Millésima, Montrachet Higher acidity than usual, backed by waves of fruit and tannin. It’s a modern take on 1986 that shows lovely precision of crème caramel, liquorice, crème de cassis and cedar. Opulent but with great tension – a monumental Mouton that has gained in stature. Could be drunk in the next 10 years but it’s going to take 20 or more to get into its stride. Easily one of the wines of the vintage. Drink 2028-2045 Alc 14%
4 Château Léoville Poyferré, St-Julien 2CC 98 £68 (ib)-£84 Farr, Laithwaite’s, L’Assemblage,
Millésima, Montrachet, Richard Kihl Relatively closed now, as are all the St-Juliens, this takes time to open but does so to reveal liquorice and brambly fruit purée, with touches of caramel and sweet cassis. Hewn out of slate boulders with layers of tannin – lovely construction that has deepened further during ageing. Matured in 80% new oak. Michel Rolland consults. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 13.5%
Château Margaux, Margaux 1CC 98 £425 (ib)-£633.33 Davy’s, Farr, L’Assemblage,
Millésima, Montrachet, Richard Kihl Serious and Cabernet-dominant (94%). Extremely fine, long, tannic structure. More blue than black fruits softened by crushed tobacco. It has Margaux’s expansive aroma: floral and mineral and a tension that lifts the palate. Reminiscent of the 2005, though with less evident tannins. Not as hefty as the 2010 or as staggering as the 2015, but still a joyful expression. Drink 2026-2045 Alc 14%
Château Palmer, Margaux 3CC 98 £ 235 (ib)-£ 305 Davy’s, Farr Vintners,
Millésima, Montrachet As always, impressive depth and silkiness. Creamy richness on the palate supports pencil lead, liquorice, damson, black cherry and slate. I love the smoky cocoa bean finish. A different style this year but no less impressive, displaying width, heft and incredible persistency. Will age far into the future and is extremely easy to recommend. Drink 2025-2042 Alc 14%
5 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac 2CC 98
£ 135 (ib)-£ 210 Farr, Millésima, Montrachet Biodynamic across 6ha of the 76ha here. Cabernet dominant, it’s very Pauillac in style and totally lives up to its en primeur promise. Deep, tight tannins. Youthful, rich, powerful and intense – gets better in the glass. Impressive depth of the silky palate: pure cassis alongside hawthorn, hedgerow and liquorice. Matured in 60% new oak. Drink 2026-2045 Alc 13.32%
6 Château Pontet- Canet, Pauillac 5CC 98 £ 114-£ 153.33 Davy’s, Farr Vintners, Millésima,
Montrachet, Richard Kihl A vintage that shows Pontet at its best, similar in feel to 2010. Gorgeously rich from the off, showing tight black fruits, redcurrant, liquorice and aniseed, fine tannins and mouthwatering salinity. Remains balanced without losing punch or concentration. Hard not to fall in love with this wine, and it will clearly age with grace and ease. Drink 2026-2042 Alc 14.5%
Château Cos d’Estournel, St- Estèphe 2CC 97 £ 150 (ib)-£ 238.33 Farr Vintners, Millésima,
Montrachet, Richard Kihl A little tight now. The fruit is deep, dark and concentrated, with fierce tannins that will take a long time to come around but will age well. A monumental Cos, with walls of slate, joined by a rosemary and black olive tang, juicy liquorice and lots of cassis. Aymeric de Gironde was director, leaving in 2017. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 14%
Château Ducru- Beaucaillou, St-Julien 2CC 97
£ 133 (ib)-£ 195 Farr, L’Assemblage, Millésima, Montrachet, Private Cellar, Richard Kihl A whole other level of richness and tightness, with very fine, taut tannins and concentrated, gorgeous fruit with touches of violet and a silky, spun-lace texture. Supremely elegant with depth and verticality. It’s still tight knit but has the concentrated signature of 2016 with lift. Drink 2026-2045 Alc 14%
Château Montrose, St- Estèphe 2CC 97
£ 125 (ib)-£ 221.67 Farr, Millésima, Montrachet Lightly smoky damson scents are joined by coffee and violet. A touch of modern sweetness that’s extremely well done, alongside a shot of freshness and fairly high acidity. Tannins are deep but flexible. Just five minutes in the glass and things open up; the density and precision clear to see. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 14%
7 Château Calon Ségur, St- Estèphe 3CC 96 £89.58 (ib)-£ 141.67 Farr Vintners, Millésima,
Montrachet, Richard Kihl Utterly gorgeous, living up to the promise at en primeur. Plump and rich yet well balanced, the violet-tinged black fruits are accompanied by vibrant cassis purée and fresh mint leaf. Chocolate and cappuccino notes swirl through the finish. Matured in 100% new oak. 2% Petit Verdot rounds out the blend. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 14%
8 Château Grand- Puy- Lacoste, Pauillac 5CC 96 £60 (ib)-£88.33 Davy’s, Farr Vintners, Laithwaite’s, Millésima, Montrachet, Private
Cellar, Richard Kihl, Tanners Mouthfilling dark cassis, complex ➢
tobacco, liquorice and truffle joined by tight tannins, but with air and life. I love it! Equal to the power of a Lynch-Bages or Pichon Baron. Drink 2024-2038 Alc 13.5%
9 Château Léoville Barton, St-Julien 2CC 96 £62.50 (ib)-£ 101.67 Davy’s, Farr Vintners, L’Assemblage, Laithwaite’s, Millésima,
Montrachet, Richard Kihl I love this - concentrated cassis on the nose with a strong, smoky edging. The coffee and dark chocolate palate is a little bitter in an attractive way, leaning against rich, sweet black fruits. Tannins are in full play. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 13%
Château Lynch- Bages, Pauillac 5CC 96 £98 (ib)-£ 171.67 Davy’s, Farr, Millésima,
Montrachet, Private Cellar, Richard Kihl Redcurrant cassis and bilberry. The acidity is clear, and layers of fine tannins build to show an impressive construction: thick black fruits, fresh menthol, toast, tobacco and grilled, almost tarry almonds. 2% Petit Verdot. Drink 2026-2042 Alc 13.5%
Château Pichon Baron, Pauillac 2CC 96
£ 165-£ 180 Widely available Pencil lead and slate aroma. Quality texture and flavour – all cassis, wet stone and loganberry; conveys heft rather than sinew. Tightens through the mid-palate to the point that it contracts. This is a serious wine. Drink 2026-2042 Alc 13.5%
19 Château Brane- Cantenac, Margaux 2CC 95 £ 52-£ 53 (ib) Davy’s, Jeroboams, Millésima,
Montrachet, Richard Kihl Vibrant cassis and violet. Freshness then an austere finish with white pepper, showing poise and power. Carmenère is now making a regular appearance in the blend. Drink 2025-2045 Alc 14%
Château Cantenac Brown, Margaux 3CC 95
£40 (ib)-£ 57.50 Millésima, Montrachet Excellent quality with well-defined black fruits. Ripe but not overly so, delineated by great freshness and touches of slate, rosemary and dark chocolate. The very precise nose slowly reveals itself, gaining in power. Drink 2026-2045 Alc 14%
11 Château Lagrange, St-Julien 2CC 95
£ 35 (ib)-£ 54.17 Farr, Millésima, Montrachet An excellent Lagrange, well made and built to last. Chewy tannins and black fruits make it fairly Pauillac in style. At 50% of total production in 2016, this represents the highest proportion of grand vin for years, following replantings in the 1980s. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 13.8%
12 Château St-Pierre, St-Julien 4CC 95 £45 (ib)-£64.17 Farr Vintners, Laithwaite’s,
Millésima, Montrachet Aromas of violets and flavours that are more bilberry and blueberry than cassis, with slate and bitter coffee notes. Very little light peeking through the tannins – has the architectural feel of 2010. Monumental, accomplished and easy to recommend. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 13.5%
Château d’Issan, Margaux 3CC 94 £45 (ib)-£66.67 Farr Vintners, Laithwaite’s,
Millésima, Montrachet, Richard Kihl Modern cocoa-dusted damson, creamy black berries and well-handled toasty oak. It has lovely lift and the fruit is buttressed by well-worked tannins, while the acidity gives an elegant twist. Welcoming and sculpted. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 14%
Château Giscours, Margaux 3CC 94 £45 (ib)-£69.17 Farr Vintners, Laithwaite’s,
Millésima, Montrachet Concentrated, autumnal hawthorn, bramble, blackberry and bilberry. Big muscular tannins and lots of acidity – built to last. Matured in 50% new oak. Axel Marchal and Valerie Lavigne consult. Drink 2026-2045 Alc 13.5%
Château Lafon- Rochet, St- Estèphe 4CC 94 £ 33 (ib)-£49.17 Farr Vintners, L’Assemblage,
Millésima, Montrachet Closed yet concentrated and silky. Balanced but not generous. The high acidity softens and opens on the palate, revealing black fruits held in a chargrilled frame. Matured in 50% new French and Austrian oak. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 14%
Château Lascombes, Margaux 2CC 94
£ 55 (ib)-£ 78.33 Farr, Millésima, Montrachet Appealingly seductive nose. The palate is austere but the tannins are present and tight rather than raw. Persistent, precise fruit leading to a finish of pencil lead and tobacco. Contemplative. Michel Rolland consults. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 14%
Château Lynch- Moussas, Pauillac 5CC 94 £ 27 (ib)-£41.67 Davy’s, Farr Vintners,
Laithwaite’s, Millésima, Montrachet Cedar and bilberry sweetness, juicy and mouthfilling and a little less austere than some. Great balance and generosity – powerful but not overpowering. Lovely persistency, with minerality and tobacco notes. Drink 2024-2038 Alc 13.5%
Château Meyney, St- Estèphe 94 £ 20.42 (ib)-£ 33 Davy’s, Farr Vintners,
Laithwaite’s, Millésima, Richard Kihl An amazingly tasty balance of richness and freshness here, leading to mineral salinity on the finish. This will need five to eight years before being ready, but it has to be one of the value picks of 2016. Drink 2021-2036 Alc 13.5%
Château Pédesclaux, Pauillac 5CC 94 £ 33 (ib)-£49.17 Davy’s, Jeroboams,
Laithwaite’s, Millésima Good acidity, good tannins and good ➢
hawthorn and ripe black hedgerow fruit but still a little austere. Rich, concentrated and focused, and given complexity by tobacco and spice. Eric Boissenot consults. Drink 2024-2038 Alc 13.3%
Château Phélan Ségur, St- Estèphe 94 £ 32 (ib)-£ 50.83 Davy’s, Farr Vintners,
Millésima, Montrachet Silky-smooth and accomplished, straying very close to being sensational. Is this their best ever wine? Cassis, damson and dark chocolate flavours, brushed tannins and great lift. So soft it feels almost ready, but give it time. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 13.5%
Château Prieuré-Lichine, Margaux 4CC 94 £ 30 (ib)-£44.17
Farr, Millésima, Richard Kihl Brushed velvet texture. A good line-up of fruit flavours is joined by sweet softness through the mid-palate that widens things out rather than dips, and there’s a slow build to the end. Drink 2026-2045 Alc 14%
13 Château Batailley, Pauillac 5CC 93 £ 34.58 (ib)-£62.50 Davy’s, Farr Vintners,
Laithwaite’s, Millésima, Montrachet Upfront and confident rich sweetness of cedar, damson and blackberry. Goes for impact from evident oak, firm acidity and extremely impressive tannins. This needs time. Drink 2025-2038 Alc 13.5%
Château Talbot, St-Julien 4CC 93 £41 (ib)-£60.83 Davy’s, Farr Vintners,
Laithwaite’s, Millésima, Montrachet Touches of rusticity and earth alongside rich cassis and bilberry fruit. It’s a big, sculpted, gorgeously confident wine with plenty of power. Matured in 50% new oak. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 13.5%
Pessac-Léognan 14 Château Haut- Brion, Cru Classé de Graves 100 £412.50 (ib)-£ 558.33 Farr Vintners, Millésima,
Montrachet, Richard Kihl More reticence initially on the nose than La Mission, but soon the rich texture reveals itself, with charcoal, tobacco, dark plum and damson fruits. Hidden power and subtle oak toasting – it feels no need to shout about its presence, but there will be plenty to discover over time. You can feel the tannins building one layer at a time. A great wine en primeur that has settled into brilliance. The white grand vin scored 95, the La Clarté 90 and the Le Clarence red 93. Drink 2026-2046 Alc 13.5%
Château La Mission Haut- Brion, CCG 98 £ 315 (ib)-£428.33 Davy’s, L’Assemblage,
Millésima, Montrachet, Richard Kihl Precise, finely wrought and gorgeously balanced between richness and elegance, with damson, black cherry, rosemary and slate. Silky-soft tannins highlight the fruit concentration as well as the grilled oak notes that are La Mission’s signature, with a fresh, lengthy core. The brisk acidity is highly seductive. The white scored 94, La Chapelle 92. Drink 2026-2044 Alc 13.5%
Château Smith Haut Lafitte, CCG 98 £ 78 (ib)-£ 118.33 Davy’s, Farr, L’Assemblage,
Millésima, Montrachet, Richard Kihl A brilliant wine, one of the best ever at this property. Complex aromas and flavours: from brambled autumnal fruits to tighter, fresher black cherry and cassis. Full of life and pleasure, with generous alcohol that’s not intrusive but showing through in the smooth texture. Great en primeur and even better now. The white scored 96, Le Petit Smith 92. Drink 2026-2042 Alc 14%
Château Les Carmes Haut- Brion, CCG 96 £ 132.68
Justerini & Brooks 51% whole-bunch fermentation for the Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Beautiful sweetness from ripe fruit and a touch of smoked caramel, gripped by liquorice, hazelnut, dark chocolate and black cherry fruits. Living up to its billing at en primeur. Tannins are full of life. Great persistency too. Drink 2026-2042 Alc 13.5%
15 Domaine de Chevalier, CCG 96 £ 54 (ib)-£ 75.83 Davy’s, Farr Vintners,
Laithwaite’s, Millésima, Montrachet, Tanners Shy nose, hiding layers of complexity. More tannic than others and will take time to come round. Brooding cassis and blackberry fruit, firm tannins and touches of tobacco. Will age well. The white scored 95. Drink 2025-2042 Alc 13.5%
16 Château Pape Clément, CCG 95 £62 (ib)-£ 118.33 Davy’s, Farr Vintners,
Millésima, Montrachet, Richard Kihl Layered fruit over silky, seductive dark chocolate and tarry oak. Big but has good balance. Richly textured, and will age well. Chewy tannins that speak of its good extraction. There’s a lot to enjoy here. The white scored 92. Drink 2025-2042 Alc 14%
Château de Fieuzal, CCG 94 £ 32 (ib)-£46.67 Farr Vintners, Laithwaite’s,
Millésima, Montrachet Oak is a little dominant but softens on the palate, giving a charred, smoky, cigar-box edge to the rich black fruits. Bright and perky, with firm tannins and well extracted, beautifully ripe fruit. The white scored 92. Drink 2025-2038 Alc 13.5%
17 Château Malartic- Lagravière, CCG 94 £41-£43 (ib)
Corkr, Davy’s, Farr, Laithwaite’s Sexy but restrained, classy and well extracted, delivering its fruit when and where you want it. A standout surprise of 2016. The white scored 94 and the reserve white 90. Drink 2025-2040 Alc 13.5%
18 Château Bouscaut, CCG 93 Often a wine that luxuriates in its oak – as it does here. Rich, exotic spice, opulent, silky texture but not over the top. The heat comes through, but it has a slick feel that works. Rich and modern. The white scored 91. Drink 2025-2038 Alc 14.5% ➢
Château Couhins- Lurton, CCG 93 Glossy, plump black fruit given finesse from smoky cedar oak. Good extraction and poise, helped by fine tannins. A good year for Couhins-Lurton; the white also scored 93. Drink 2025-2038 Alc 13.5%
Château Olivier, CCG 93
£ 26 (ib)-£ 34.17 Millésima, Tanners Tight and Cabernet-dominant. You can feel the depth of good quality fruit but this will take its time to open. The white scored 94. Drink 2025-2040 Alc 13.5%
St-Emilion 19 Château Cheval Blanc, 1er Grand Cru Classé A 98 £ 516 (ib)-£ 706.67 Farr Vintners, Millésima,
Montrachet Just keeps on going. Perfectly integrated oak holds everything in place. It has race, depth, complexity and feels true to Cheval Blanc. Grown-up, with wonderful fresh mint notes and firm tannic structure. Like putting together a puzzle in your mouth, with every piece fitting snugly into place. Doesn’t try too hard to impress, like so many others. Has Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend for the first time in more than 15 years. Drink 2026-2046 Alc 14% 20 Château Figeac, 1GCCB 98 £ 164 (ib)-£ 260 Farr, Justerini & Brooks, Millésima, Montrachet, Richard Kihl A testament to the work being done here, this has depth, length and intensity while retaining the rich fruit. Just as impressive as it was at en primeur. Hints of violet and a silky texture precede firm slate walls that pull the fruit into place. It takes its time to open, slowly revealing black olives, white pepper and rosemary aromas. 100% new oak. Drink 2024-2045 Alc 14%
Château Beauséjour Duffau- Lagarosse, GCC 97
£ 117 Farr Vintners I love this – it’s compact, closed and tense, yet aromatically rich, juicy and powerful. Totally delicious and one of my favourite St-Emilion 2016s. It blends the austerity of limestone with the power and seductive appeal of clay. It will amply reward your patience. Drink 2026-2045 Alc 14%
Château Bélair- Monange, GCC 97 £ 110 (ib)-£ 127 Farr Vintners, Laithwaite’s,
Private Cellar, Tanners Hints of austerity, but it’s hard to miss the gorgeous limestone vertical lift. Incredibly poised blueberry and raspberry fruit of integrity and confidence, accompanied by caressing oak and cappuccino creaminess as it opens. Up there with the very best of St-Emilion. Drink 2024-2045 Alc 14.5% 21 Château Canon, 1GCC 97 £ 124 (ib)-£ 178.33 Farr, Justerini & Brooks, Millésima, Montrachet, Richard Kihl Power dealt out slowly with precision, lift and balance. Great purity, concentration and depth, without sacrificing the juicy blueberry and cassis fruit integrity, fresh mint, salinity and grip. A great example of what the limestone plateau can do. Utterly delicious. Drink 2024-2045 Alc 14.1%
22 Château La Gaffelière, GCC 94 £ 57-£ 70.83
Farr Vintners, Millésima Power and restraint, with clear spicing and fresh cut herbs accompanying firm, deep tannins and autumn hedgerow fruits. A lovely wine, and one that will age well. 50% new oak. Drink 2026-2042 Alc 14%
23 Château Corbin, GCC 93 Round cherry, loganberry and juicy cassis fruit. The 50% new oak is present, offering charred, tarred flavours that aren’t subtle but full of life. Well constructed with a great life ahead. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 14%
Château Fonroque, GCC 93 Impressive texture with silky black and red fruit that’s well knit, along with coffee and chocolate. Has potential but needs time. 30% new oak. Drink 2024-2038 Alc 14%
Château La Fleur Morange, GCC 93 Vines are 100 years old on average. Tarry, charred oak alongside bitter chocolate and cassis. Character and power drowned out a bit by the tight frame. Needs time. 100% new oak. Drink 2024-2038 Alc 14%
Pomerol
24 Château Lafleur 100
£ 1,082 Farr Vintners The nose is rich and powerful, yet slow to open, with an almost Cabernet Sauvignon depth of expression. The fruit structure is dominated by brambles, blackcurrants, hawthorn and liquorice, the tannins starting to show their succulence after a few minutes. Waves of toasty oak and
anise spiral through the beautiful, defined fruit. Little doubt that this will close down further over the next few years but it will go and go. A serious Lafleur, touching on brilliance. Drink 2026-2045 Alc 14%
25 Château Trotanoy 100 This has more than lived up to its promise at en primeur. Layers of muscular black fruit in a display of Pauillac intensity and tannic prowess: dark chocolate, cassis, liquorice, black olive and cappuccino. The velvety texture is astonishing, and the flavours are held together on a tightrope of power and freshness, its intensity coming from within. Needs decades but those lucky enough to own it will be very happy. Drink 2030-2050 Alc 14.5%
Petrus
99 Already taking on a slow creep of defined, violet, crisp cassis, tight black fruits and fig notes. Floral and fresh yet complex and ripe, balanced by a gorgeous burst of mint and slate. Pure, precise and architectural, it holds your attention both aromatically and intellectually long after the wine has gone. The overall impression is simply of pleasure. Drink 2028-2050 Alc 14.5%
26 Château La Fleur- Pétrus 98 £ 150 (ib)-£ 182 Farr Vintners, Laithwaite’s,
Montrachet, Tanners The upfront bramble fruit is sensuous and luscious, followed by freshness and lift of mint and eucalyptus. Gorgeous grip with violet edges – for me this tops the brilliant 2015 because I love the push and pull of fruit intensity and teasingly slow acidity. Rewards the recent effort and investment here. Drink 2025-2045 Alc 15% 27 Château L’Evangile 98 £ 175 (ib)-£ 245 Bon Coeur, Farr Vintners, Lay & Wheeler, Millésima, Montrachet Going to be every bit as great as 1989, and a worthy follower to 2015. Creamy raspberry and blackberry flavours and the power and intensity tells you it has an amazing future. Silky-smooth texture attests to great freshness balanced by well-ripened fruits and seductive tannins. A serious wine. Drink 2024 2040 Alc 14% Château Clinet 97 £ 79.16-£ 105
Farr, Millésima, Richard Kihl Subdued now, but the texture pulls you in. Cabernet austerity at first then an intense punch of dark, tight cassis fruit with a liquorice and dark chocolate finish. It has taken on more flesh on its bones during ageing, with the aromatics blossoming to reveal violet edging and a silky-smooth tannic frame. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 14% Château La Conseillante 97 £ 150 (ib)-£ 211.67 Davy’s, Farr Vintners, Laithwaite’s, Millésima, Montrachet Rosemary, spice, liquorice and bursts of minerality leap out – utterly luscious and on a tightrope between power and grace. Flavours stretch out through the tight palate, becoming juicy on the finish. Fine, building tannins. Biodynamic practices in the vineyard. Drink 2024-2045 Alc 13.8% 28 Vieux Château Certan 97 £ 220 (ib)-£ 311.67 Farr Vintners, Millésima, Montrachet, Tanners Deep and silky, with dense notes of coffee, liquorice and a welcome hint of bitterness. Menthol freshness and dark chocolate through the finish. It’s reserved now, with austerity evident, but the complexity builds in the glass, as does the seductive, silky texture. Drink 2024-2045 Alc 14.5%
29 Château Certan de May 96 £86
Farr Vintners Flavours of cedar, liquorice, slate, damson and black cherry set off by a mineral pulse. I just love this wine – it’s wonderfully rich and expressive yet young and poised. Physically exciting with great tension; easy to recommend. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 15%
Château Hosanna 95 £ 127
Farr Vintners Not the most exuberant vintage, yet offers a glimpse of its long life ahead. Precision winemaking. Dense damson and cassis layered with rosemary and black olive, lifted by a menthol finish. Violet hints lighten the whole. This has improved since en primeur. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 14.5% Château Gazin 94 £ 59.17-£88.33 Farr Vintners, Laithwaite’s, Millésima, Richard Kihl Rich and elegant cassis with a silky texture and balance. Intense and concentrated with great lift. Aways a wine that takes its time to show its colours, but this will age beautifully. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 14% 30 Château Bourgneuf 93 £ 31.25-£ 32 (ib)
Laithwaite’s, Private Cellar Extremely promising. Lush fruit backed by strong tannins suggests a long life ahead but a patient wait. A creamy caramel note as it opens keeps you enjoyably engaged. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 14.5%
Château Petit-Village 93 £75-£80
Widely available Well-extracted, polished, juicy black cherry and damson fruit that is full of personality and elegance. Nicely constructed, well held together and very good quality. Drink 2024-2036 Alc 14% 6