Pacific Northwest reds

These two states in the US offer a huge diversity of terroirs, and the wines emerging from them are equally fascinating, as local Michael Alberty’s selection of top reds shows

O regon and Washington wine styles are difficult to pin down due to the scope and diversity of these wine regions. Between them they have more than 1,700 wineries growing 142 different grape varieties – from Assyrtiko to Xarel-lo – over 36,000ha in 32 different AVAs (American Viticultural Areas). The microclimates in their AVAs run the gamut from the Umpqua Valley in southern Oregon, where annual rainfall can total 127cm, to the warmer sections of east-central Washington, where the Wahluke Slope is lucky to get 16cm.

Washington is known for its two most widely planted red grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Rhône favourites such as Syrah, however, are giving them a run for their money. Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon both excel in the Walla Walla Valley AVA, where one sub-appellation, The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater AVA, is also garnering attention for its excellent Rhône wines. The area is so named because its alluvial soils are filled with basalt cobbles larger than a cricket ball.

Pinot Noir is king in Oregon, accounting for 59% of the state’s production. The grape grows all over the

state, but the northern Willamette Valley makes the most sought-after Pinot Noir. The Dundee Hills AVA is where David Lett of the Eyrie Vineyards planted the valley’s first vines in 1965. Wines from the Dundee Hills continue to dominate Oregon’s Pinot Noir discussion.

While Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs are typically unblended, a growing number of winemakers are adding Gamay Noir, or even white grapes such as Pinot Gris.

To generalise, eastern Washington is warm and dry in summer, cold in winter. Its wines resemble the bold reds of Bordeaux and the northern Rhône. Oregon is colder and wetter, with moderate winters. Burgundy and the Loire Valley inspire many Oregon winemakers.

The best vintages in Oregon and Washington depend on personal preference. For higher acid, lower alcohol wines, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noirs from the cooler 2007, 2011 and 2017 vintages are excellent. Washington excelled with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah in 2010. For plusher, warm vintage reds, look for 2012 and 2016 in Oregon, and for 2012 and 2015 in Washington. Winemakers in both states are optimistic about the potential of the 2018 vintage.

Another opinion shared by numerous winemakers on both sides of the Columbia river is that making red wine in clay pots is an excellent idea. Amphorae are all the rage in Oregon, and the enthusiasm is spreading to Washington. A significant reason for the interest in terracotta clay is Oregon winemaker and ceramic artist Andrew Beckham of Beckham Estate Vineyard. In 2013, Beckham fired up his kiln to begin making amphorae for his wines. Beckham recently mastered the ability to make 320-litre clay vessels for commercial distribution and winemakers throughout the Pacific Northwest have been snapping them up.

The state of red wine in Oregon and Washington is robust as more and more people discover their quality.