SHANGHAI: DECANTER WINE LEGENDS ROOM
One highlight for visitors at this year’s Shanghai Fine Wine Encounter was a chance, for the first time, to taste superb wines by producers featured on our Decanter Wine Legends page in issues going back to 2011. Including some of the vintages originally featured and some more recent, Stephen Brook tasted the wines that topped the bill in Pudong in November...
Recaredo, Turó d’en Mota, Cava, Catalonia, Spain 2001
The 1999 vintage was the first for this groundbreaking Penedès sparkling wine – produced since 2006 under the new Corpinnat banner. It is aged on the yeasts for 11 years or more. This 2001 is fully dry, mature and rounded, nutty and suave with fine depth and texture. 2004 also shown.
( 1999 featured in Wine Legends, March 2018 issue) Drink 2020-2025 Alc 12%
Château Pichon Baron, Pauillac 2CC, Bordeaux, France 2005
For 30 years, this superbly managed property has produced wines of the very highest quality. Classically rich with spicy blackcurrant aromas. Vibrant and lively, still robust, with energy and tension, it still needs time. The finish is very long, yet remains quite chewy – patience is needed. (July 2019) Drink 2020-2035 Alc 13.5%
Gaja, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy 2016
Raspberry-scented and incredibly perfumed, this is poised, ethereal and delicate on the nose. Taut intensity and concentration hit the palate immediately, but there’s freshness and purity of fruit as well. Spicy and lively, this shows energy and flair and an excellent balance that promises a long life ahead. ( 2001, April 2012) Drink 2020-2036 Alc 14%
Château de Beaucastel, Châteauneufdu- Pape, Rhône, France 2001
Charming, seductive nose, raspberry and cherry with damp leaves and tobacco. The attack is supple but rich, full-bodied and succulent. The tannins are beautifully polished and balanced by fine acidity. Very elegant for Châteauneuf – panache and persistence, and a long, peppery finish. 1990 vintage also shown. ( 1981, April 2016) Drink 2020-2026 Alc 14.5%
Mas de Daumas Gassac, Vin de Pays de l’Hérault, Languedoc, France 1982
Fairly deep red, showing maturity but not browning. The nose is leafy, sweet, ripe, delicate now but still showing charm. The attack is silky with quite high acidity that gives a slight astringency, tannins chewy but not drying, and the finish is sweet, precise and long. Drink soon. (September 2017) Drink 2020-2024 Alc 13.2%
Mastroberardino, Radici, Taurasi Riserva, Campania, Italy 1998
Aglianico is Campania’s finest red grape, and this has always been among its finest expressions. Smoky cherry aromas and a strong tobacco tone. Firm, concentrated, supported by lively acidity and robust but ripe tannins. Ample sweet fruit, and the finish shows energy and drive. ( 1968, May 2014) Drink 2020-2026 Alc 13.5%
Château Montrose, St- Estèphe 2CC, Bordeaux, France 2009
Making the most of this outstanding vintage, Montrose delivered a wine with structure and durability. The fruit leaps from the glass, showing exuberant blackcurrant, blackberry and integrated new oak. Concentrated, suave and fleshy with big ripe tannins, it is still assertive – impressive vigour and energy. ( 1990, January 2017) Drink 2020-2040 Alc 14%
Paul Jaboulet Aîné, La Chapelle, Hermitage, Rhône, France 1998
Now in its prime, leafy aromas suggest some evolution, though the nose is floral and elegant. Concentrated, with weight and volume, and good acidity conferring considerable freshness. The tannins are polished, and the finish minty, zesty and long. 2015 also shown. ( 1961, December 2011) Drink 2020-2028 Alc 13.5%
Nino Negri, 5 Stelle, Sfursat di Valtellina, Lombardy, Italy 2001
A speciality of the Valtellina region that resembles Amarone, and this is widely regarded as a top expression. It’s juicy and plummy, and its flamboyant fruit counts for more than a slight raisiny character. It’s rich and quite stern – plenty of grip and a long, peppery finish. 2013 also shown. (May 2019) Drink 2020-2026 Alc 15.5%
Miguel Torres, Mas La Plana, Penedès, Catalonia, Spain 1989
Regrettably, there was some bottle variation with this wine, which now seems rather frail. It still shows berry fragrance, is moderately rich and concentrated, but the tannins are quite austere and fight the sweetness of fruit. Overall the wine, or these bottles, lacks succulence. ( 1970, August 2019) Drink 2020-2022 Alc 12.5%
Viňedo Chadwick, Alto Maipo, Chile 2000
The elegance of the nose is immediately striking, with lifted blackcurrant aromas and stylish oak. It’s powerful but graceful and still fresh, succulent and juicy without showing any lack of structure or grip. Fine acidity ensures excellent balance and length. 2017 also shown. (October 2017)
Drink 2020-2030 Alc 14.2%
Ridge, Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains, California, USA 1991
A California classic from grapes grown at 600m. Now showing some evolution in colour, the nose has a leafy character with blackcurrant fruit. Still fresh and precise, this is sleek and stylish: some chocolate tones and ample drive on the finish, which is structured and far from flagging. ( 1970, March 2013) Drink 2020-2028 Alc 13.1%
Klein Constantia, Vin de Constance, Constantia, South Africa 1995
Grapes are dried on the vine to increase sugars and picked at various stages. The 1995 is now light bronze, with honeyed, figgy aromas. Rich, but has a light touch and still shows freshness and brightness. Creamy and concentrated, with a long, raisiny finish. 2015 also shown. ( 1986, January 2015) Drink 2020-2030 Alc 14.5%
Catena, Nicolas Catena Zapata, Mendoza, Argentina 2000
The nose is resplendent, amalgamating new oak and black fruits while retaining lift and clarity. It has an appealing juiciness as well as richness and concentration, with a hint of mocha and chocolate on the mid-palate. It’s still vigorous and vibrant, ready to drink but still going strong. ( 1997, October 2018) Drink 2020-2028 Alc 13.6%
Beaulieu Vineyard, BV, Georges de Latour Private Reserve, Rutherford, Napa Valley, California, USA 1988
Ripe, opulent nose, not overblown, with admirable charm and fragrance. A far cry from Napa blockbusters of more recent times, but it does have a tannic backbone, piquant acidity and a lightly peppery finish. Concentrated, textured, long. ( 1947, April 2017) Drink 2020-2026 Alc 12.6%
Te Mata, Coleraine, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand 2016
Coleraine has a long track record, having been released since the early 1980s. The nose is ripe but delicate: black cherry and blackberry, gentle oak. Concentrated but supple, it shows a light touch as well as flair. Sophisticated and delectable rather than a blockbuster, good length. ( 1998, August 2017) Drink 2020-2028 Alc 13.5%
Taylor’s, Vintage Port, Douro Valley, Portugal 1994
Highly rated on release, this still has bright colour. The nose is intense and piquant, showing a great deal of red fruits. There’s precision and freshness on the palate, which packs a punch. A touch spirity now, this still has fine fruit and backbone, and some liquorice on a very long finish. ( 1927, January 2013) Drink 2020-2030 Alc 20.5%
Santa Rita, Casa Real, Reserva Especial, Maipo Valley, Chile 1995
This exemplary Chilean Cabernet comes from a 20ha block in Alto Maipo, and was first made in 1989. Lovely nose, sweet and intense, berry fruits and violets. It’s now rounded and plump, still with freshness and texture, and although not especially nuanced, it’s lively and quite long. ( 1989, October 2013) Drink 2020-2024 Alc 13.5%
Heitz Cellar, Martha’s Vineyard, Napa Valley, California, USA 1997
The nose is lavish, with red and black fruits in evidence, though blackcurrant aromas dominate. Rich, broad, very concentrated on the palate, but also spicy, minty, and grainy in texture. Linear and displaying fine acidity, it lacks a little depth and succulence, but is long. ( 1974, September 2012) Drink 2020-2026 Alc 14.3%
Kanonkop, Pinotage, Stellenbosch, South Africa 1995
Kanonkop has mastered this variety, a 1925 crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault. Vibrant cherry-compote aromas, menthol and tobacco. Has ample body and ripe tannins. Harmonious and lively, with unexpectedly delicious fruit – the finish is slightly dusty, but it’s not drying. ( 1995, August 2016) Drink 2020-2024 Alc 13%