A taste of the top 2018 Burgundies
Wines are listed by commune, from north to south, then by score, then alphabetically by producer. The 2018s are bottled in January 2020, hence prices and stockists are not yet set. Contact specialist merchants for allocations, or to enquire about en primeur tastings
Gevrey-Chambertin RED WINE OF THE VINTAGE Domaine Dugat- Py, Grand Cru Chambertin
99
The only thing wrong with this incredible wine – my red Burgundy for the second year running – is that there’s so little of it: 200 litres to be precise. It’s pricey at € 550 a bottle, but close to Pinot Noir perfection. Fermented with 90% whole bunches and aged in a single new barrel, it’s a stunning, old-vine cuvée. So fresh, so poised, so complex, so long, with spice and summer flower aromas, textured, fine-grained tannins and a chalky, red berry-infused finish. Drink 2024-2038 Alcohol 13%
TOP QUALITY Domaine Armand Rousseau, Grand Cru Chambertin- Clos de Bèze
97
Plush, textured and grippy, this has understated richness, sinewy tannins, well-integrated 100% new wood and a chalky, refreshing finish. The RuchottesChambertin Grand Cru also scored 97. Drink 2024-2035 Alc 13.5%
TOP QUALITY Domaine Cécile Tremblay, Grand Cru Chapelle- Chambertin
97 Cécile Tremblay’s range is among the best in Burgundy in 2018. This is a textured Pinot with lots of body and concentration, lacy, fine-grained tannins, fresh balancing acidity and underlying grip and tension. Evidence of a feminine touch or just great winemaking? Drink 2023-2033 Alc 14%
Domaine Denis Bachelet, Grand Cru Charmes- Chambertin
97
From two 100-year-old parcels totalling 0.43ha. Scented, elegant and racy, it shows no sign of the heat of the vintage, blending texture, fruit weight, subtle oak (50% new wood) and the perfume and finesse that are hallmarks of the domaine’s style. Wonderful winemaking from a quietly spoken superstar. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13%
TOP QUALITY Domaine Denis Mortet, Grand Cru Mazis- Chambertin
97
Made with 40% whole bunches and aged in 70% new wood, it’s an extremely elegant, refined expression of the grand cru with wonderful underlying tension and focus and a spicy, sappy finish. Drink 2023-2033 Alc 13%
Domaine Duroché, Grand Cru GriotteChambertin
97
Pierre Duroché has 0.112ha in this tiny grand cru. Entirely whole-bunch fermented and aged in older wood. Floral, sensuous and indecently sweet, it’s fresh, ethereal and has impressive length and crisp minerality. If only there were more than 80 litres… Drink 2023-2028 Alc 12.5%
Domaine Fourrier, Vielles Vigne, 1er Cru Clos-St-Jacques
97
Every bit as good as the grands crus Jean-Marie Fourrier bottles under his domaine and négociant labels. Density, plushness and poise, with spicy, sappy black cherry and bramble fruit, scented 20% new oak and a detailed, refreshing finish. The class of the terroir shines through. Drink 2023-2032 Alc 13%
Domaine Launay- Horiot, Grand Cru Chambertin
97
The best wine Xavier Horiot has made yet from this terroir – especially praiseworthy in a year like 2018. Chalky, refreshing and serene, with balletic poise and elegance, racy acidity and stylish 75% new oak. It carries its structure lightly, lingering on the back palate. Drink 2023-2033 Alc 13.5%
Domaine Sylvie Esmonin, 1er Cru Clos St-Jacques
97
One of Sylvie Esmonin’s best-ever Clos St-Jacques. Sourced from a 1.6ha parcel made, as usual, with 75% whole bunches it is rich, layered and complete, with lots of perfume, well-handled new oak, palatecoating tannins and a long, mineral-fresh finish. Drink 2023-2025 Alc 14%
Olivier Bernstein, Grand Cru Mazis- Chambertin
97
Often among the most structured wines in Olivier Bernstein’s array of grands crus, this hails from two parcels of 90-year-old vines. Built to last, this has considerable depth, power and concentration, with notes of liquorice and mint, plush bramble and blueberry fruit and a sheen of new oak. Drink 2024-2033 Alc 13%
Morey-St-Denis TOP QUALITY Domaine Dujac, Grand Cru Clos St- Denis
98
Up there with the best of 2018, this is a beautifully refined expression. Everything is in the right place, with subtle 75% whole bunches, polished, nuanced tannins, thrilling minerality, fine, floral red berry sweetness and lingering minerality. The sort of thing every Pinot lover should cherish. Drink 2026-2038 Alc 13.7%
Domaine Hubert Lignier, Cuvée Hommage MCMLV, Grand Cru Clos de la Roche
97
From 0.2ha planted in 1955 within the Ligniers’ holdings in Monts Luisants. First released in 2018, it’s a stunning wine that will be sold at twice the price of the regular Clos de la Roche. Elegant, racy and refined, it has layers of floral, red berry, effortless concentration, bright acidity and more tannins and more staying power than you first think. Drink 2026-2038 Alc 13.2%
Domaine Ponsot, Grand Cru Clos de la Roche
97
Retaining acidity and focus in a hot year, this is a refined, violet-perfumed Pinot that combines sensuous texture and fruit sweetness with acidity and tannic structure. Domaine Ponsot is flourishing under the new régime. Drink 2028-2038 Alc 14%
Domaine Taupenot- Merme, Grand Cru Clos des Lambrays
96
Currently one of the most coveted slivers of a grand cru, this produced just 200 bottles in 2018. But small is beautiful, as this is a refined, concentrated, new oakaged Pinot that demonstrates effortless balance and transparency with raspberry and wild strawberry flavours and enticing palate length. Drink 2024-2032
Chambolle-Musigny TOP QUALITY Domaine Arlaud, Grand Cru Bonnes- Mares
98
Domaine Arlaud has eight rows of BonnesMares covering 0.2ha. This is a stunning wine with amazing depth, succulence and concentration. The 30% of whole bunches have added much-needed freshness in such a hot year. Drink 2026-2032
TOP QUALITY Domaine Robert Groffier, 1er Cru Les Amoureuses
98
This brilliant expression of a grand cru in all but name hails from five sloping parcels totalling 1.1ha. Lacy, racy, silky, delicate and refined, it’s the kind of Pinot Noir that makes you fall in love with red Burgundy all over again. Focused, nuanced, world-class. Drink 2026-2038 Alc 12.9%
Domaine Denis Mortet, Grand Cru Bonnes- Mares
97
It wasn’t easy to make something this well balanced in 2018 but Arnaud Mortet has done it in his stride. Elegant, sappy and showing the effortless concentration of established old vines, this has added freshness and forest floor notes from 70% whole bunches. Drink 2028-2038 Alc 13.8%
Domaine Georges Roumier, Grand Cru Musigny
97
500 bottles for the world – a record yield! Fermented with 70% whole bunches and aged in one-year oak, this is everything you’d expect a great Musigny to be: polished, refined, yet assertive, with chalky freshness and intensity, coconut sweetness, lacy tannins and a minute-long finish. Drink 2028-2038 Alc 13.5%
TOP QUALITY Domaine JacquesFrédéric Mugnier, Grand Cru Musigny 97
What a wine this is: intensely aromatic, finely balanced and beautifully weighted, with notes of aromatic spices, wild berry fruit, sculpted tannins and profound depth and structure. Will only get better in bottle. Drink 2026-2038 Alc 13%
Domaine Joseph Drouhin, 1er Cru Amoureuses
95
Véronique Drouhin and her team have excelled here: clove and pepper spice from 40% whole bunches, 30% new wood and fine, fluid red berry flavours that glide across the tongue like a figure skater on ice. A Pinot lover’s Pinot Noir. Drink 2024-2033 Alc 13.8%
Domaine Lecheneaut
93
If you can judge a domaine by the quality of its village wines, then the Léchenaut brothers deserve special praise. Serious and structured, fermented with 50% whole bunches of old-vine fruit before ageing in 50% new wood. Spicy, chalky and aromatic, but with lots of underlying structure. Drink 2023-2030 Alc 13.5%
Vougeot
TOP QUALITY Château de la Tour, Hommage à Jean Morin Vieilles Vignes, Grand Cru Clos de Vougeot
97
As in 2017, this is the best Clos de Vougeot of the vintage, and only 1,000 bottles are made, selected from individual old vines. It puts a smile on your lips as you taste it – all class, poise, and nuance, with fine-grained tannins and whole-bunch spice and structure. The Vieilles Vignes scored 96. Drink 2028-2038 Alc 13.5%
Domaine Georges Mugneret- Gibourg, Grand Cru Clos de Vougeot
96
This single 0.3ha parcel planted in 1954 has produced a very fine cuvée that’s smooth, polished, elegant and refined. The 70% new wood provides an appealing backdrop with filigree tannis and red berry fruit filling out the mid-palate. Stylish stuff from this wonderful domaine. Drink 2026-2034 Alc 13.6%
Domaine du Comte Liger- Belair, Grand Cru Clos de Vougeot
95 Louis-Michel Liger-Belair makes this biodynamic wine under his négociant label from a 0.4ha parcel planted in the mid-1960s. Aged in 100% new oak, as his wines tend to be, this has lots of texture and weight, vanilla and cinnamon spice, finely judged tannins and real freshness and zip. Drink 2026-2034 Alc 13%
Vosne-RomanŽe
TOP QUALITY Domaine de la Romanée- Conti, Grand Cru Monopole La Tâche
98
One of the great wines of 2018, as it so often is. Incredible presence and assurance, showing remarkable balance, grace and intensity – the majesty of a great, soaring cathedral. Fine texture and flavours of green malt, red berries and autumn leaves. Wonderful! Drink 2028-2040
Domaine Méo- Camuzet, 1er Cru Cros Parantoux
98
This 0.3ha parcel of 60-year-old vines is one of the wines of 2018: fine, focused, detailed, and effortlessly well balanced with understated concentration and hauntingly aromatic red fruit sweetness. The Richebourg Grand Cru scored 96. Drink 2026-2038 Alc 13.5%
Domaine Hudelot- Noëllat, Grand Cru Richebourg
97
Racy, elegant and very detailed, with less texture and plushness than you often find here but an engaging thread of minerality and a fine, refreshing finish. The RomanéeSt-Vivant and 1er Cru Malconsorts scored 96. Drink 2024-2032 Alc 13.8%
Domaine Jean Grivot, Grand Cru Richebourg
97
Plush, textured and hauntingly aromatic, with 50% new wood, fine, chalky minerality, some salinity, effortless concentration, lacy tannins and a finish that lasts for more than a minute on the palate. Drink 2024-2035 Alc 13.5%
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Grand Cru Romanée-St-Vivant
97
From a 0.17ha parcel, it has some tannic backbone, two-thirds new wood and layers of intense, structured bramble and red berry fruit. The concentration from 100-year-old vines is apparent in its superb depth. Drink 2025-2035 Alc 13.5%
Domaine JJ Confuron, Grand Cru Romanée-St-Vivant
96
Planted in 1926, this 0.5ha parcel is always the most complex wine at the domaine. Violet and aniseed scents segue into a palate that’s smooth, glossy and textured with bramble and black cherry fruit, some chalky undertones, stylish oak and subtle reduction. Drink 2024-2035 Alc 13.5%
Domaine Jean Tardy, Les Vigneux
93 A superior village parcel of 0.34ha that always over-delivers in the hands of Guillaume Tardy, with smooth-textured violet-scented fruit, subtle oak integration and enough acidity for balance. Drink 2023-2028 Alc 13.3%
Nuits-St-Georges Domaine Thibault Liger- Belair, 1er Cru Les St- Georges
96
Thibault Liger-Belair has produced one of the tighter, more serious expressions of this premier cru in 2018, finding texture, tannin and structure in his 74-year-old vines. Real poise, balance and intensity with spice, tobacco notes and underlying minerality. Drink 2026-2036 Alc 14%
Domaine Henri Gouges, 1er Cru Les St- Georges
95
The Gouges have 1.08ha of what many consider to be a grand cru in all but name and always make one of the best wines of the terroir. Forward for a Les-St- Georges, with ripe, spicy, bramble and mulberry flavours, scented oak, some aromatic spices and a backbone of grippy tannins. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 14.5%
Domaine de l’Arlot, 1er Cru Clos de l’Arlot
95
Clos de l’Arlot is always among the best and most harmonious wines of Nuits-StGeorges. Concentrated, with scented 45% new wood, savoury red fruit, nuanced tannins and a precise, balanced finish. Classy stuff. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 13.5%
Domaine de Montille, 1er Cru Thorey
95 Aux Thorey is a relatively cool site that often produces elegant, refined Pinots with considerable grace and charm. This 60% whole bunch-fermented red from Brian Sieve has savoury rose and wild herb aromas, sculpted tannins and an earthy undertone. Drink 2024-2032 Alc 13%
Domaine JJ Confuron, 1er Cru Boudots
94 Made without whole bunches as generous yields meant no space in the tanks, this is a Vosne-influenced Nuits-St- Georges showing lots of plush, glossy bramble and dark cherry fruit, supple tannins, fennel and liquorice and stylish 70% new oak. Drink 2023-2030 Alc 13.5%
Jean- Claude Boisset, 1er Cru Chaignots
94
Grégory Patriat is making increasingly refined wines here, typified by the quality of this bottling from the Vosne-Romanée end of Nuits-St- Georges. In only its second vintage, drawn from low-yielding 65-year-old vines, it’s very silky, nuanced and enticing, with floral top notes and fresh acidity. Drink 2022-2028 Alc 13.5%
Other Côtes de Nuits TOP VALUE Domaine Bruno Clair, Les Longeroies, Marsannay
93
For now, Marsannay doesn’t have any premiers crus, but this will surely be among them soon. Bruno Clair calls this a ‘very complete’ expression of Longeroies: delicate, aromatic and detailed with fresh acidity, minerality and fine wild strawberry fruit. Drink 2022-2028 Alc 13.5%
Domaine René Bouvier, Vieilles Vignes, Clos du Roy, Marsannay
93
Marsannay’s grand cru, says Bernard Bouvier, these old vines have produced a wine with considerable structure and concentration. Firm, sinewy and sweet, it has layers of tannin and dark berry fruit, appealing freshness and well-judged 20% new oak. Drink 2026-2033 Alc 13%
Albert Bichot, 1er Cru Clos de la Perrière, Fixin
92
This is a sizeable – and very reliable – cuvée in the Bichot portfolio, sourced from a 5ha parcel covering three terroirs. Fermented with 10% whole bunches and aged in 20% new wood, it’s a floral, textured Pinot with appealing freshness and minerality and an undertone of noble reduction. Classy Fixin. Drink 2022-2028 Alc 13.3%
Corton TOP QUALITY Domaine Faiveley, Grand Cru Corton- Charlemagne
96
The Faiveley holdings add up to 0.87ha on a mix of soil types and altitudes, all quite cool. This marries richness, weight and honeyed complexity with vibrant, mineraledged acidity and scented oak. A textbook example from a year that didn’t lend itself to classic wines. Drink 2023-2030 Alc 13.5%
Domaine de Montille, Grand Cru Corton- Charlemagne
95
Etienne de Montille sources his CortonCharlemagne from a single parcel in the Les Pougets climat in Aloxe- Corton, which was replanted with white grapes in 2006. Fermented in one-third new wood, it has classic understated power, structure and minerality, and the promise of more to come in bottle. Drink 2023-2032 Alc 13%
Domaine Jacques Prieur, Grand Cru Corton- Charlemagne
95
Nadine Gublin has produced an impressive Corton- Charlemagne. Weighty, rich and showing some of the appealing tannin and bitterness some Burgundian Chardonnays have in 2018. Polished, aromatic 60% new wood and racy minerality – focused and very long. Drink 2023-2030 Alc 13.5% ➢
Jean- Marc Roulot, Grand Cru CortonCharlemagne
95
Roulot buys grapes from two producers in Ladoix for this white under his négociant label. It has some characteristic restraint and flinty, struck-match reduction, but the exuberance and power of the terroir is apparent too, framed by scented, finegrained oak. Drink 2023-2030 Alc 13%
Pommard Domaine Comte Armand, 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux
96
One of the best Côte de Beaune reds of 2018. The four blocks that make up the blend of this celebrated Pommard amount to 5.23ha and are aged between 36 and 100 years. Aged in one third new oak, it has spice and tobacco notes, layers of red berry fruit, fresh acidity and firm, granular tannins. Drink 2024-2035 Alc 13.5%
Domaine Launay- Horiot, 1er Cru Rugiens- Bas
96
Classic grip and fresh blood notes of the iron oxide soils here. The parcel may be small at 0.1ha, but the resulting wine packs a punch. Textured and stony, with struckmatch reduction, sculpted tannins, floral red cherry and plum fruit and underlying grip. Drink 2022-2033 Alc 13.5%
Domaine Joseph Voillot, 1er Cru Pézerolles
95
Racy, chalky and almost refreshing by Pommard standards, with floral top notes, plum and red berry fruit, a nip of savoury tannins, fine 15% new wood and a long, refreshing finish. Domaine Voillot’s parcel is about 55 years old and covers 0.39ha. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13.5%
PRODUCER TO WATCH Domaine Nicolas Rossignol, 1er Cru Les Epenots
95 Nico Rossignol uses the 115-year-old vines that make up 70% of his parcel here (‘my grand cru’) for massal selections. This rich, dense red from one of the village’s best sites is spicy and sappy, with 60% whole bunches adding extra complexity and freshness. Drink 2024-2035 Alc 14%
Volnay Domaine Michel Lafarge, 1er Cru Les Caillerets
96
60-year-old vines on shallow, bony soils covering 0.3ha have given a chalky, focused and very refined wine with some ferrous grip. The oak is beautifully done
here, and the fruit fine, nuanced and sweet. The 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs scored 96. Drink 2025-2038 Alc 13%
Domaine Bernard & Thierry Glantenay, 1er Cru Les Caillerets
95
Les Caillerets is one of Volnay’s best crus. Thierry Glantenay makes just two barrels from his 0.16ha parcel here and it’s worth seeking out. Subtly wooded, elegant and refined, it has complexity from 50% whole bunches, understated oak and a pithy, fresh finish. Drink 2024-2032 Alc 13.5%
PRODUCER TO WATCH Jean- Claude Boisset, 1er Cru Santenots
94
New to the Boisset range in 2018, this was made with no added sulphur until bottling. Refreshingly low in alcohol for 2018 with 50% whole bunches adding notes of clove and autumn leaves, it’s a delicate, nuanced wine. The 25% new oak adds a sheen of vanilla spice. Drink 2024-2032 Alc 12.6%
Domaine François Mikulski, 1er Cru Santenots- du- Milieu
93
The gentle touch you see in François Mikulski’s whites is apparent here. Floral, ethereal and graceful, this elegant, 20% new oak-aged Volnay from vines in the commune of Meursault is balanced, refreshing and finely judged. A white wine drinker’s red. Drink 2025-2030 Alc 13.5%
Domaine Georges Lignier, 1er Cru
93 Labelled as a premier cru because it combines fruit from four lieux-dits, this old-vine cuvée has appealing freshness and focus with crunchy red berry fruit, clove spices from 30% whole clusters and well-knit 25% new oak. More than the sum of its parts. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 13.2%
Meursault Domaine des Comtes Lafon, 1er Cru Perrières
97
The vintage’s comparatively generous yields mean there will be 14 barrels from this 1ha parcel. Subtle, complex, elegant and concise, it’s beautifully weighted and refined, with incredible palate length, subtle reduction and stony minerality. The 1er Crus Genevrières and Poruzots each scored 96. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 13%
TOP QUALITY Domaine Roulot, 1er Cru Perrières- Dessous
97
This encapsulates all that is special about Jean-Marc Roulot’s winemaking style. It’s like it is crossed with a Chablis grand cru, such is its focus, minerality and tension, with gunflint aromas, wet stone and citrus peel flavours and a leesy mid-palate framed by oak. The 1er Cru Clos des Bouchères scored 96. Drink 2023-2035 Alc 13%
Domaine François Mikulski, Vigne Plantée en 1913, 1er Cru Charmes
96 Mikulski’s top white is one of 2018s best Meursaults, as it often is: big, bold and intensely textured with a combination of cream and citrus flavours, scented oak and remarkable poise, focus and palate length. Drink 2023-2035 Alc 13.5%
Pierre Morey, 1er Cru Perrières
95 A pretty, racy Perrières. Concentrated and very well balanced, it’s a classic Meursault from a cooler site, with skilfully handled 35% new wood, plenty of extract and a long, mineral-etched finish. Classy stuff. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 13.5%
Domaine Chantal Lescure
93
Don’t overlook the whites made at this biodynamic Nuits-St- Georges-based domaine. ‘Just’ a village wine, it is sourced from Les Pellans and is a textbook expression of Meursault, with oatmeal and citrus notes, understated oak and leesy complexity. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 13.2%
Puligny-Montrachet
WHITE WINE OF THE VINTAGE Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Grand Cru Montrachet
98
The very good news for fans of this wine is that Dominique Lafon produced a record seven barrels in 2018, the most since 1982 when his father was in charge. Sourced from 0.3ha of Burgundy’s most famous white grand cru, it takes your breath away: subtle, complex and intense, with easily
digested new wood, layers of citrus, stone fruit and spice and near-perfect balance. Drink 2023-2035 Alc 13.5%
TOP QUALITY PRODUCER TO WATCH Domaine Jacques Prieur, Grand Cru Chevalier- Montrachet
97
A stunning, multi-faceted wine. Aged in 50% new wood, it’s weighty, concentrated and leesy, with subtle reduction, some tangerine, lime and lemon peel flavours and a combination of focus and minerality. Drink 2023-2032 Alc 13%
TOP QUALITY Domaine Joseph Drouhin, Marquis de Laguiche, Grand Cru Montrachet
97
The 2ha here are the largest in the grand cru and have been put to good use by Véronique Drouhin and her team. Wonderful citrus and stone fruit aromas, kitchen spices and patisserie, very fine 30% new wood and remarkable palate length. Drink 2023-2032 Alc 13.3%
TOP QUALITY Domaine de la Vougeraie, Grand Cru Bienvenues- BâtardMontrachet
96
Acquired by Jean- Claude Boisset from Vincent Giradin, this 0.5ha parcel always produces one of the domaine’s top whites, showing characteristic freshness and delicacy. Subtly wooded in 30% new oak, this has remarkable minerality and sap, notes of lemongrass and aniseed and a long finish. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13%
TOP QUALITY Etienne Sauzet, Grand Cru Chevalier- Montrachet
96
This has more power and concentration than Sauzet’s Bâtard-Montrachet in 2018. Struck-match aromas segue into a palate of dried coconut and vanilla, leesy, creamy flavours and underlying zip and chalky minerality. A classy négociant white.
Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13%
TOP QUALITY Olivier Leflaive, Grand Cru Bâtard- Montrachet
96
One-third new oak aged, this is typically broad, plush and concentrated, showing the majesty you expect. Leesy, smoky and still in its youth, it has lots of acidity and vibrancy and flavours of citrus and stone fruit embellished by nutmeg spice. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13%
Domaine Bernard Moreau, Grand Cru Chevalier- Montrachet
95
Alex Moreau has been making his impressive négociant wine since 2010, producing three barrels of this in 2018. It’s his most complete and intense wine, with a lovely interplay between lemon and lime flavours, stony minerality, stylish oak and concentration. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13%
Domaine Michel Niellon, Grand Cru Chevalier- Montrachet
95 Chevalier-Montrachet was arguably the best white grand cru in 2018 thanks to its altitude. This 1963 planting of 0.23ha is chalky, minerally and racy with orange zest and lemon tart flavours embellished by fine, spicy oak. Classy winemaking by Michel Coutoux. Drink 2023-2030 Alc 13%
Domaine des Lambrays, 1er Cru Clos du Cailleret
94
One of the best expressions yet of the Cailleret terroir from this Morey-St-Denisbased producer, from a 60-year-old parcel next to Montrachet. Zesty, fresh and crystalline, with nuances of coconut and toffee fudge, good texture and a sappy, flinty finish. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 13.6%
Chassagne-Montrachet TOP QUALITY Pierre-Yves ColinMorey, 1er Cru Les Caillerets
97 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey rates this and Les Grandes Ruchottes as Chassagne’s best white wine terroirs. Here, his high-altitude, limestone-dominated, 0.1765ha plot has delivered a racy, refined wine: old-vine concentration meets mouthwatering, saline acidity. One of the whites of the vintage. Drink 2023-2035 Alc 12.8%
TOP QUALITY Domaine Jean- Noël Gagnard, Grand Cru Bâtard- Montrachet
96
The last wine I tasted on my three-week
Burgundy tour and a great way to finish. Sourced from a 0.33ha block of 60-yearold vines, it’s always the most patrician wine in Caroline Lestimé’s range. Spicy, structured and stylishy oaked in 60% new barrels, it’s powerful yet fresh with great energy. Drink 2023-2035 Alc 13%
Domaine Paul Pillot, 1er Cru La Romanée
96
An intense, focused, chiselled wine with a chalky, wet stone nose, leesy density, stylish 12% new wood and a long, tangy, mouthwatering finish. A premier cru of grand cru quality from one of the best young winemakers in the Côte de Beaune. Pillot’s 1er Cru Les Grandes Ruchottes scored 96. Drink 2023-2035 Alc 13%
Domaine Fontaine- Gagnard, Grand Cru Bâtard- Montrachet
95
Céline Fontaine has made an effortlessly complex Chardonnay here, combining depth and texture with taut acidity and the power and concentration to age. The one-third scented new oak is beautifully integrated. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 12.8%
Domaine Marc Morey, 1er Cru Vergers
95
The domaine’s 1ha holding here has produced a stunning wine in 2018 which combines richness and palate weight with stylish, aromatic oak, sappy, bracing acidity and flavours of wet stones, citrus and oyster shell. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13%
Other Côte de Beaune PRODUCER TO WATCH Bachey- Legros et Fils, 1er Cru Champlots, St-Aubin
95 Bottled under the domaine’s négociant label because it is made with (excellent) purchased fruit, this is a St-Aubin that
could rub shoulders with many 1er Cru Puligny-Montrachets. Racy, pithy, chalky and very saline, it’s very crunchy and refreshing, with a taut, mouthwatering finish. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 13.5%
Domaine Hubert Lamy, 1er Cru En Remilly, St-Aubin
94
En Remilly is regarded as one of St-Aubin’s top two crus, partly due to its proximity to Chassagne-Montrachet’s grands crus. From Olivier Lamy, this is floral, taut and nuanced, with freshness, salinity and the density to age. Drink 2022-2028 Alc 13.7%
TOP VALUE Domaine Anne- Marie et Jean- Marc Vincent, Les Hautés, Auxey- Duresses
93
Burgundy insiders have long known that this is one of the region’s great bargains, a ‘simple’ village Auxey-Duresses that’s as tasty as many premiers crus. Fresh lemon, baking spices, chalk dust and scented 10% new oak, it has great weight, density and a mineral finish. Drink 2021-2026 Alc 13%
TOP VALUE Olivier Leflaive, La Macabrée, Auxey- Duresses
93
Three parcels near Meursault supply the fruit for this over-delivering white. Fermented and matured in 15% new oak, it has notes of gunsmoke, chalky freshness and cool elegance with vanilla and nutmeg spice and a tangy, sea-salt finish. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 13%
Domaine des Croix, 1er Cru Grèves, Beaune
95
David Croix rates this as the best of his Beaunes. Made with 40% whole bunches and 25% new wood, it’s a wonderfully nuanced, detailed Pinot with rose and ginger aromas, succulent raspberry fruit, layered tannins and subtle, graceful tannins. Beaune at its underrated best. Drink 2024-2032 Alc 13%
Domaine Bachey- Legros, 1er Cru Clos Rousseau, Santenay 94
Clos Rousseau would be much more famous if it were in Vosne-Romanée or Gevrey- Chambertin, such is the quality of the wines here. Limestone-rich soils have produced a racy, floral and refined wine of wonderful elegance, poise and finesse, with subtle 30% new wood and a stony, flinty finish. Drink 2024-2032 Alc 13.5%
Domaine de Bellene, 1er Cru Les Teurons, Beaune
94
From one of Beaune’s best crus. Spicy, floral and enticing, with 50% whole bunches and 10% new wood, it’s a very well-judged Pinot Noir with considerable finesse and ageing potential. Drink 2024-2032 Alc 14%
Côte Chalonnaise Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial, Vieilles Vignes, 1er Cru Grésigny, Rully
94 Showing some noble reduction (harder to achieve in a wine than you’d think) this intense, focused, saline white comes from a vineyard planted in 1945 making it one of the older parcels in Rully. Sappy and bright with 20% new wood, it’s fine and floral – one of the best whites in the Côte Chalonnaise. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 14%
Domaine Bruno Lorenzon, Pièce XV, 1er Cru, Mercurey
93
Mostly from a parcel in Champs-Martin along with 14 other plots, this top-end white is all about weight, intensity and focus, with no new oak but lots of peach, pear and citrus backed by cinnamon and tangy, refreshing salinity. The Pièce XIII also scored 93. Drink 2020-2028 Alc 13%
TOP VALUE Domaine Paul & Marie Jacquesson, 1er Cru La Pucelle, Rully
93 Rully is close to the Côte de Beaune and the best wines are similar in style but usually much cheaper. This shows lovely, freshness, persistence and weight, with a leesy, floral, beeswax texture, understated wood and the acidity of a good PulignyMontrachet. Drink 2021-2026 Alc 13%
TOP VALUE Domaine Francois Lumpp, 1er Le Pied du Clou, Givry
94
This cru, outside François Lumpp’s cellar door, is one of the lower, flatter vineyards in his enviable portfolio. Dense and well structured, with serious, sinewy tannins, lots of fleshy bramble and raspberry fruit and a stylish patina of well-handled 70% new oak. Drink 2023-2028 Alc 13%
TOP VALUE Domaine Tupinier- Bautista, 1er Cru Clos du Roy, Mercurey
94 Stéphane Chassin makes bespoke barrels for this wonderful red, sourced from a 40-year-old, 0.55ha plot. Floral, perfumed and balanced, it combines weight and fruit intensity with fine tannins and vivid, acidity. Hard to beat in 2018 in the Côte Chalonnaise. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 13%
TOP VALUE Domaine de Suremain, Génération Sept, 1er Cru La Bondue, Mercurey
93
Produced for the first time in 2018, it’s the best wine yet from Loïc de Suremain’s fast-improving domaine. From 70-yearold vines and aged in 100% new oak, it shows perfume and finesse, fine tannins and more weight, freshness, detail and texture than his regular La Bondue cuvée. Drink 2023-2030 Alc 13.5%
TOP VALUE Domaine Faiveley, Monopole, 1er Cru Clos des Myglands, Mercurey
92
Just a little more concentrated than the La Framboisière cuvée – which is also worth buying – this is rich, sunny and full of red berry and bramble fruit with good underlying zip, fine tannins and suave 30% new wood. Drink 2022-2028 Alc 13.5%
Mâconnais Château- Fuissé, Le Clos, Pouilly- Fuissé
95
This monopole behind the château often produces one of southern Burgundy’s best wines as it has in 2018. From three old-vine parcels on different terroirs, it is floral, chalky, refined and complex, with peppery spice, effortless concentration and seamlessly integrated 80% new oak. Drink 2023-2030 Alc 13.5%
Château de Beauregard, Vignes Blanches, Pouilly- Fuissé
94
One of my favourite future premier crus
from one of the best names in Mâconnais. Fermented in one-third new wood, it’s a classic, patrician style with sunny, floral aromas, racy acidity, nectarine and citrus flavours and a frisson of chalky minerality. La Maréchaude and Vers Pouilly also scored 94. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 13.5%
TOP VALUE Domaine Barraud, En France, Pouilly- Fuissé
93
Stylishly wooded in 20% new oak, it’s less racy and austere than some, but still has plenty of tangy, refreshing minerality complemented by flavours of grapefruit and lemongrass. The basic Pouilly-Fuissé scored 94. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13.5%
TOP VALUE PRODUCER TO WATCH Domaine Ste- Barbe, Clos du Buc, Viré- Clessé
93
A new cuvée to the Ste-Barbe range, from a high-altitude parcel that includes vines over 100 years’ old. Lightly wooded in 10% new oak, it has struck-match reduction, herbal, grapefruity, almost Sauvignon Blanc-like flavours and fresh saline minerality. An intriguing wine worth seeking out. Drink 2020-2025 Alc 13.5%
TOP VALUE PRODUCER TO WATCH Domaine Jacques Saumaize, Les Creuzettes, Pouilly- Fuissé
93
The best 2018 white from Jacques and Anthony Saumaize. It has lovely texture and weight of stone and passion fruit flavours framed by 20% new oak, and there’s a freshness and minerality that often goes hand-in-hand with limestone soils. Drink 2020-2025 Alc 13.5%
TOP VALUE Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, Clos du Four, Mâcon- MillyLamartine
93
From clay soils that mitigate the effect of hot vintages, this is wonderfully fresh and well balanced, with plenty of zip, flavours of passion fruit and grapefruit, and the faintest whisper of oak spice. Milly at its best. Drink 2021-2026 Alc 13.5%
Clos des Vignes du Maynes, Manganite, Mâcon- Cruzille
94
In a region overwhelmingly dominated by Chardonnay, this is a rightly celebrated red, made with low-yielding Gamay vines planted in the 1950s. Fermented with 25% whole bunches, it’s peppery, fine and delicate – like a cross between a Pinot Noir and a Trousseau – with red cherry, clove and pomegranate flavours and barely a hint of oak. Drink 2022-2028 Alc 12.5%
Bourgogne Domaine Arnaud Ente
93
As a generic white, this is hard to beat – even if the price is closer to that of a good village wine. The fruit comes from two parcels in Puligny-Montrachet and one in Meursault. Fresh, chiselled and refined, with a whisper of oak, a touch of struck match and zesty acidity. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 12.3%
Bret Brothers, Aligato, Bourgogne Aligoté
92
With its stylish label and play on words (‘Arigato’ means ‘ thank you’ in Japanese), this lightly wooded Aligoté comes from the foot of the Roche de Vérgisson in St-Véran. Racy, mineral and crisp, with oatmeal and tangy, lemongrass and celery flavours. Drink 2020-2024 Alc 11%
Domaine de Bellene, Coteaux Bourguignons
92
A new release in 2018, this is an ambitious white from from Nicolas Potel, from young vineyards in Nuits-St- Georges and St-Romain. Made with no added sulphur, it’s chiselled with breezy flavours and a saline bite. Drink 2020-2026 Alc 13%
Clos des Vignes du Maynes, Cuvée Auguste
93
Julien Guillot makes this with Pinot Fin clones planted in Mâcon- Cruzilles. Pale in colour and light in body it has clove spice from 25% whole bunches, understated oak, fine-boned tannins, watermelon and raspberry flavours and a faint prickle of CO – superb! Drink 2021-2026 Alc 12.5%
TOP VALUE Domaine Léchenaut, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits
92 Vincent Léchenaut says he’s never made a
Bourgogne Rouge with so much alcohol, but this stylish wine from 30-year-old vines has retained freshness thanks in part to fermentation with 30% whole clusters. Sappy, spicy and deftly oaked in 15% new wood. Drink 2022-2028 Alc 14%
Domaine Cécile Tremblay, Bourgogne Côte d’Or
91
Vosne-Romanée and Chambolle
Musigny contribute fruit for this overdelivering red. Fermented with 10% whole bunches and aged in 25% new oak, the result is a fresh, succulent Pinot that’s a delight to drink. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 12.5%
Domaine Denis Bachelet
91
Every wine in Denis Bachelet’s range over-delivers at its price, none more than this Bourgogne from three parcels in Gevrey- Chambertin. Juicy and glossy with subtle, scented raspberry and wild strawberry fruit, fresh acidity and finely judged 15% new oak. Less than € 20 at the cellar door. Drink 2020-2028 Alc 13% D