Expressions of northwest Spain: 20 great reds
The reds from this area are incredibly varied, but not always well known – despite the high price of the most famous. Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW picks 20 from across the spectrum
Northwest Spain consists of five regions, two distinctive climates and a little transition zone. The four regions facing the Atlantic ocean (Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia) are known as Green Spain. It rains a lot here – more than in England. There are many different types of soil, topography is very rugged and temperatures are mild.
The grape varieties in this corner of Spain are original and indigenous, with ancient origins. It is believed that, at the time of the Romans, vineyards extended into the Atlantic and northern latitudes thanks to accidental crossings between Mediterranean grape varieties and the native varieties of northern Spain. Other varieties could have been imported through the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route in the Middle Ages.
Potential unlocked
Green Spain and its microclimates are paradise for distinctive red wines redolent of their origins, expressing freshness, delicacy and subtlety. Sadly, these qualities were the reason for the style being relatively unknown throughout the centuries, as locals preferred the hearty reds from the south. Today these northwestern wines – while still not widely available – are appreciated in high-end markets because of their finesse and inimitability. They are the benchmark for the Atlantic character: pale, with restrained aromatic expressions, crisp acidity, suave tannins, a gentle yet persistent finish and lots of personality.
The fifth region is Spain’s largest, Castilla y León. It’s a huge, high-altitude plateau with a markedly continental climate – very cold in winter and very hot in summer – and it receives more sunlight and less rainfall than Green Spain. The small transition zone I mentioned is Bierzo: quite isolated from the rest of the region, with a unique viticulture more than 2,000 years old. Within the rest of Castilla y León there are many microclimates, exposures and soils, giving rise to a remarkable diversity of vines and wines.
Castilla y León’s red wines have a few things in common with those of Green Spain, but they are, for the most part, very different.
They tend to be darker, often with ripe fruit aromas. These wines develop well in oak barrels – indeed, for some of them, such as the Tempranillo-based wines of Ribera del Duero and Toro, oak ageing is a must. Acidities are remarkably lower, although the best wines are still quite fresh (Bierzo is an extraordinary case: it tastes amazingly fresh, which theoretically indicates high acidity, when in fact it is actually quite low). The most outstanding wines have the capacity to improve for a very long time with bottle ageing, a factor contributing to the mythical status of Vega Sicilia (and in due course, I daresay, other wines from Ribera).
The north Castilian plateau is surrounded by mountains. This is probably why its wines are unique, and it explains why they don’t have a significant history of being exported. The region is landlocked, so transporting the wines to rich urban markets was an expensive and hazardous undertaking. Consequently, only those wines from Spain’s coastal areas had the opportunity to gain recognition in foreign markets. It was only at the end of the 20th century, once Spain had joined the European Union, that Castilla y León could build the necessary infrastructure and access the global wine trade.
After that, it wasn’t long before Ribera del Duero became one of the world’s classic red wine regions. Toro and Bierzo are steadily improving towards that elite level, while León, Arribes del Duero, Salamanca, Cigales and Arlanza have become exciting quality proposals with varied profiles.
Watch this space: in a few years, my ‘best of’ list will feature a completely new set of wines.
WINE SELECTION
The 20 wines I have chosen are based on criteria beyond quality evaluation. There are more than 50 great wines in Ribera del Duero alone. Similarly, Bierzo and Toro lay claim to more than a dozen each. But I think it is of interest for readers to see the scores of wines from regions that are less visible. In addition, I intentionally dismissed those wines mentioned in my article ‘Spanish wines you should have in your cellar’ (Spain supplement, November 2019 issue) to avoid duplication. I also did not include the Gredos area, as this is a separate region that should more appropriately be considered part of central Spain.