Vintage report: southern Rhône 2018
‘Higher-altitude estates in appellations such as Gigondas were frequently the most successful, and Châteauneufdu-Pape also did well’
Mildew ravaged the region’s vines in 2018, but some producers managed to pull through. The result is a hit-and-miss vintage with more misses than hits – though armed with a bit of knowledge, you can still find exceptional ripe reds and full-bodied whites. Matt Walls reveals the details of a difficult year and recommends the wines that rose to the challenge
For many producers in the Rhône valley’s south, the 2018 vintage was a disaster due to a devastating attack of mildew that hit the region in spring. But those who escaped the worst went on to enjoy a very hot, dry summer, resulting in juicy, generous reds and whites, and some that are surprisingly good.
One of the most important aspects of terroir in the southern Rhône is the mistral – the penetrating north wind that follows the rain, drying wet bunches and helping to keep diseases at bay. But after successive rains throughout a very warm May, the mistral never came. Mildew spread like wildfire, triggering the worst outbreak of downy mildew winemakers had seen in generations.
‘It happened in one night,’ said Vincent Avril of Clos des Papes, who eventually lost 70% of his crop, while Jacqueline André of Domaine Pierre André in Châteauneuf-duPape noted that her father had ‘never witnessed anything like it’ – and he’s 93. I heard countless stories of producers losing
half their crop or more. Although not all growers were affected, most would agree with Jean-Paul Daumen of Domaine de la Vieille Julienne that it was ‘a very stressful year’.
Once this episode had passed, some went on to produce very good wines, generally in the ripe, juicy style of a hot vintage. But many wines lack depth, and even some reliable estates made disappointing wines.
Tough conditions
Mildew is a fungus-like organism that attacks all the green parts of the vine. It causes leaves to drop, which hampers ripening, and when it attacks the stems it arrests the flow of sap, leaving blackened, wizened bunches. It affected all varieties, but Grenache was especially prone, and it had a cruel predilection for old vines. Mourvèdre was fairly resistant however, so Mourvèdre-heavy blends performed well in 2018.
Organic and biodynamic estates were often the worst hit, as there was relatively little that they could do to fight back – though some fortunate growers dodged the worst. Those producers who were using systemic fungicides were hit less hard, if at all.
After the rains stopped in mid-June, summer was extremely hot and dry, except for a heavy rainstorm on 9 August, and there were no serious issues during harvest.
Estates that weren’t badly hit, or could afford to cut out the worst-affected fruit, often went on to make very good wines, similar to a lighter 2015. Higher-altitude estates in appellations such as Gigondas were frequently the most successful, and Châteauneuf-du-Pape also did well. It was a disappointing vintage for Cairanne and Rasteau, whose light wines often showed a bitter, vegetal streak. Vacqueyras also underperformed, with many wines lacking freshness and depth – a lack of acidity is something that characterises the vintage more generally, in fact.
Whites were a little more consistent and somewhere between 2015 and 2017 in style. They are ripe and full-bodied, with high alcohol and sometimes low acidity. Some are delicious and are largely wines to drink young rather than keep.
In difficult years, it can make sense for wine lovers to seek safety among old vines, famous vineyards, top producers or organic/ biodynamic viticulture, but after tasting all 17 crus in the southern Rhône, 2018 is a vintage in which simple rules of thumb don’t apply.
There are many excellent wines, but these are the exceptions; there are countless others that are simply best avoided. This is not a vintage to buy blind!
Around the regions Cairanne, Rasteau & Vinsobres
Cairanne and Rasteau are adjacent appellations – two halves of a single large hummock of clay limestone with a river on either side. Neither fared especially well in 2018. Cairanne was disappointing: many wines displayed attractive fruit, then fell down due to a green streak, bitterness or a lack of depth or length. As in other appellations, certain sites that normally excel didn’t perform as well as expected.
Neighbouring Rasteau suffered from the same issues. A handful of wines found a little more concentration and vivacity, but excess alcohol was a drawback for others. Despite the challenges of the vintage, there are some very enjoyable wines to be found in both appellations, in red and white for Cairanne, but I’d imagine that this is a vintage that most growers would rather forget.
Vinsobres fared better than Cairanne and Rasteau. It was a little more consistent, thanks in all likelihood to its altitude and alternative wind currents. There are some good-value wines to be had here, and while not an outstanding vintage, the best enjoy a juicy exuberance and speak clearly of their origins. Key producers in 2018: Domaine Alary, Domaine La Luminaille, Domaine Brusset, Domaine des Amadieu.
Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes-de-Venise
Gigondas is the standout appellation of the 2018 vintage. I wouldn’t compare it to the previous three vintages in terms of quality, but the best wines from Gigondas have concentration, freshness and power along with dense, ripe tannic structures. In the words of Loïc Alazard of up-and-coming Domaine les Sibu: ‘It’s not the vintage of the century, but it’s pretty good.’
Another appellation that has vineyards at altitude is Beaumes-de-Venise, whose red wines were fairly solid this year as well. One success story is Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, in which lovers of this sweet style will find plenty to enjoy.
The line-up of Vacqueyras reds were quick to taste – juicy and straightforward but often lacking in character. A handful of standout bottles are worth tracking down, however, some of which offer value. White varieties are increasingly being planted in Vacqueyras, and there are some enjoyable examples in 2018. Key producers in 2018: Domaine des Bosquets, Domaine la Ligière, Domaine la Monardière, Domaine Santa Duc, Moulin de la Gardette.
Lirac & Tavel
The west bank of the Rhône wasn’t spared, and here it’s the whites that are most reliable. When winemakers could capture enough freshness to balance the innate richness of the vintage, some enjoyably characterful wines are the result. White Lirac can sometimes be light on its feet, but the 2018s are fairly full and lush. For those producers that achieved balanced levels of ripeness, the best red Liracs are red-fruited, spry and ready to drink now.
Lirac rosés were often on the thin side. There was also a general lack of flavour intensity and acidity in Tavel, but not always – a handful of more generous wines will offer enjoyable immediate drinking.
Key producers in 2018: Château de Bouchassy, Château de Montfaucon, Clos du Mont-Olivet, Domaine de la Mordorée.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
One négociant joked that all the best grapes from the region ended up in Châteauneuf blends. I’m pretty sure he was just kidding, but Châteauneuf did perform well in 2018. Estates whose wines sell for high prices are more likely to have the resources to tackle difficult years.
The more successful wines are in a flamboyant and juicy style that at times veers towards overripeness. There are many wines that are exuberant but a little lacking in depth; this is generally a vintage for drinking young. The very best have vibrancy, freshness and intensity without heaviness, similar to 2015.
The whites are broadly as good, and certainly more consistent, in a particularly full-bodied and opulent style. A good proportion of the whites I tasted were on the light side; others were overweight and lacked freshness. Some producers managed to walk this tightrope successfully, but like the reds, drink sooner rather than later.
Key producers in 2018: Château de Beaucastel, Domaine de Cristia, Domaine de la Bastide St-Dominique, Domaine de la Vieille Julienne, Domaine Pierre André.