Hugh Johnson

Back in 2010, The Wine Society had the idea of offering members a mixed case en primeur of the second wines of the first growths. All the better because it was the splendid 2009s – and clearly their 10th birthday in November 2019 was the time to see how they’re getting on. The perfect opportunity came when the wine committees of two ‘gentlemen’s’ clubs in St James’s had their annual convivial (of course, strictly non-competitive) dinner, memorable enough to report.

It’s becoming de rigueur these days to treat our friends to English sparkling wine. We may yet have our favourite Champagnes, but with English fizz we’re still exploring. That evening it was Hattingley Valley, Blanc de Blancs 2011 and Gusbourne, Brut Reserve 2015. Nothing competitive about it, of course, but the 2011, still beautifully fresh, was our preference. White Burgundies: Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru MorgeotLes Fairendes (new to me) 2015 from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey was as fresh and lithe as you could hope, singing on the palate; the 2014 village Chassagne from Michel Niellon seemed stodgy in comparison.

The one second wine we didn’t have was Les Forts de Latour, so I fielded Latour’s third wine, Pauillac 2009, in a magnum, hoping the big bottle would help. It did indeed. Le Clarence de Haut-Brion was all youth and vigour – grand style, but needs several more years for what Dom Pérignon’s interpreters call plŽnitude. Carruades de Lafite was discreet, elegant, chiselled – no décolletage here, but class, class, class. Le Petit Mouton was, to me, the least expressive, even sullen, though with plenty of stuffing. Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux was extravagantly perfumed, exotic, a superstar. Inevitably we called for votes from the 12 at table. Margaux and Latour tied at the top, with Margaux slightly preferred. Who knows if the grands vins will replicate the performance of their juniors?

Even more satisfying in a way, though, was to find a ‘mere’ second growth that was simply perfection. We rhapsodised about Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 2000, in magnum; claret like this, so balanced that it almost seems simple, tranquil in maturity, has no peer.

Oh yes, we ate halibut and beef and excellent veg, then mushrooms on toast, then English cheese. We finished with two glorious German stickies and, being the clubs we are, Port: Taylor’s 1977.