Six of the best: Williams’ pick of the La Rioja Alta range

Gran Reserva 890, Rioja 2005 96 £ 110-£ 145 Armit, Albion Wine Shippers, Amathus, BI Wines & Spirits, Hard to Find Wines, Harvey Nichols, Mumbles Fine Wines, Nemo Wine Cellars, South Downs Cellars, Tanners, The Oxford Wine Co

Tempranillo with 5% of Graciano and Mazuelo. Blackcurrant and citruspeel-like notes bring a pleasing touch of bitterness. Savoury too, coffee and a dusting of vanilla. Overall very harmonious and deep, with that utter pleasure that comes from age but not over-age – superbly polished, fine tannins and a peacock’s tail finish. Drink 2020-2050 Alcohol 13.5%

1 Gran Reserva 904, Rioja 2009 95 £42.50-£ 59.95 Armit*, Caviste, Connaught Cellars, Dunell’s, Hard to Find Wines, Harvey Nichols, Hic, Highbury Vintners, Hook & Ford, M Winestore, Mumbles Fine Wines, Oddbins, The Huntsworth Wine Co, The Oxford Wine Co, Viader Vintners

Tempranillo with 5% Graciano. So lovely with that inviting nose of aged but still perky wine,

pulsing with fruit, but with so much savoury complexity, like a room filled with oak furniture. A gorgeous satiny texture of ripe, polished, filigree tannins. Really so luxurious, but very fine and long. Drink 2020-2040 Alc 13.5%

Torre de Oña Reserva, Rioja 2014 93 £ 23.38-£ 25.60 Armit, Exel

Tempranillo with a splash of Mazuelo; French and Caucasian oak. In a denser, darker style – a liquorice saltiness and dark, olive-like characters, some balsamic and a slight Cabernet Franc-like pyrazine-green character. Texturally there is grain and grip, lots of tannin. Impressive. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 13.5%

Viña Ardanza Reserva, Rioja 2009 93 £ 23-£ 32.50 Widely available via UK agent Armit* 80% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha. Surprisingly fragrant with chocolatey notes and lovely fresh fruit character mingling with savoury oak and that typical fine-grained

Ardanza texture, freshness, then a touch of spice and complexity on the finish. Great length. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 13.5%

Torre de Oña Finca San Martín Crianza, Rioja 2016 92 £ 12.75-£ 14.16 Armit, Christopher Keiller, Dunell’s, Exel

Pure Tempranillo, with lovely big juicy succulence. Very pure with minimal oak flavour – a different style to the La Rioja Alta caricature. Cherry and aniseed, with nice ripe tannin. Good length, and a fresh finish. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 14%

Viña Alberdi Reserva, Rioja 2013 91 £ 16.99-£ 22.10 Armit*, Noble Green, Rise & Vine, South Downs Cellars, Symposium, Taylor’s Fine Wine, The Surrey Wine Cellar, Uncorked 100% Tempranillo. Some very sweet, spicy coconut notes, good fruit beneath, classic in style but young; some savoury elements and a good touch of silk and pleasurably ripe, suave tannins that make it very easy to drink. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 13.5%

* Current vintages available via UK agent Armit Wines: Gran Reserva 904, 2010; Viña Ardanza Reserva, 2010; Viña Alberdi Reserva 2014.