Château d’Escurac
It was with the 1996 vintage that this property won the Coupe des Crus Bourgeois du Médoc, an annual blind-tasting competition with international judges and copious meals. I was one of the judges in 1998, so I went with colleagues to visit this little-known property in Civrac. Its triumph was no fluke, and many subsequent vintages proved to be just as good. The owner Jean-Marc Landureau died in 2017, but his wife Merete Larsen is an experienced oenologist, so the property lives on.
The 23ha of vines are planted on an isolated hillock of well-drained and wellventilated gravel soils. Landureau picked by machine, but Larsen has returned to partial manual harvesting and has implemented biodynamic practices.
The winemaking is modern, with a long cold soak and a long maceration, followed by a year in one-third new oak. Although the proportion of Merlot can be quite high (60% in the vineyard), Escurac is a wine that can age well. Selection is rigorous, with lesser lots going into the second wine, La Chapelle d’Escurac, named after the remarkable 11th-century chapel on the hill.
Château d’Escurac, Médoc CB 2016 91
N/A UK www.chateaudescurac.com
This is still youthful, with dense aromas of black cherry and blackberry. It’s very ripe and concentrated, with robust and firm tannins. Moderate acidity gives it a graceful character, but there is ample grip, and the finish is long and chewy. Drink 2021-2032 Alc 14%
Château d’Escurac, Médoc CB 2010 89
£ 18.48 Rodney Fletcher
The colour remains youthful and unevolved, and the nose, too, is reserved. However, the palate is bright, showing ample sucrosity, though the tannins remain firm. This has substance and weight, but is a tad austere. Long, savoury finish, with liquorice tones. Patience required! Drink 2020-2035 Alc 14.5%
‘The winemaking is modern... Escurac is a wine that ages well’