Expert's choice: Uruguay
From intense, textured Tannats to fresh, ocean-influenced Albariños, Marina Gayan MW selects 18 wines to kickstart your journey of discovery
Many wine lovers around the world are yet to taste Uruguayan wines. This is perhaps because of the small scale of the country’s wine production and Uruguay’s relatively recent arrival on the international wine scene. Bearing in mind that only 5% of the country’s bottled wines are exported, this tasting showcases fully half of the producers who export the highest quality Vinos de Calidad Preferente (VCP) wines. The predominance of red wines is perhaps not surprising in a country where most of the land is dedicated to beef production. Uruguay has the highest per capita consumption of beef in the world (56kg, followed closely by Argentina with 54kg). Of the 6,100ha of vineyards in Uruguay, 4,900ha are planted with red grapes, predominantly Tannat and Merlot.
All but one of the reds in this selection are made, wholly or in part, from Uruguay’s flagship grape variety,
Tannat. The eight single-variety Tannats here share a few characteristics: colour intensity, oak ageing (two wines are unoaked), textured tannins, refreshing acidity and a savoury edge that enhances the dark fruit.
All in the blend
To my mind, Tannat blends are Uruguay’s secret weapon. The top three wines here showcase the quality that can be achieved in this country. Surprisingly, none of them comes from Canelones, Uruguay’s most important wine region, which accounts for 65% of the country’s vineyards. One is a Merlot-based blend from the volcanic soils of Cerro del Guazuvirá in Lavalleja. The other two are Tannatbased blends from coastal Maldonado – one from Viña Edén and the other from Garzón.
When it comes to whites, Albariño and Sauvignon Blanc are logical grape varieties for the terroir. Uruguay is surrounded by water on all sides except for its northern border with Brazil. The maritime climate is similar to that of Galicia, the Spanish homeland of Albariño, and even though the variety remains niche in Uruguay, with only 47ha of vineyards planted, quality is blossoming. There is a little more Sauvignon Blanc planted (about 120ha) and the wine I have recommended here demonstrates the quality potential of this variety in Uruguay. Salud!
'To my mind, Tannat blends are Uruguay’s secret weapon’