Panel tasting: top-tier Chianti Classico

In Tuscany’s Sangiovese heartland, in one of the world’s most celebrated wine regions, what is it that distinguishes its two highest-quality categories from the rest? explains

AAlthough Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione represents a mere (but rising) 6% of total production in Tuscany’s Chianti Classico region, its worth and even its very existence are under scrutiny and still a source of debate. Plenty of notable voices, more in the wine media than the trade, see its creation from early 2014 as a needless additional ‘top’ tier, an extra layer of complication when wine in general and Italian wine in particular is complicated enough as it is.

Compared to Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva, Gran Selezione wines have to wait an extra six months (30 as opposed to 24) before going to market, so they have a little bit more bottle age. So far, so sensible, but hardly earth-shattering.

Gran Selezione’s trump card, its supporters argue, is that wines must be made solely from grapes 100% grown, fermented and bottled by the producer whose name appears on the label. Wines from rented vines whose grapes are farmed and fermented by the named producer are permitted.

Positive moves

Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva, in contrast, can be made from purchased grapes, wine or both; as can Tuscan titans Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Morellino di Scansano, DOCGs all.

And because oak ageing is optional for all Chianti Classico wines (yes, Italy does have its share of very sensible wine legislation), it means Gran Selezione (or ‘Chianti Classico Select’, as it would be called in California) is not an oaky monster by default.

This is important because the Chianti Classico production zone provides Sangiovese (85%-100% in all Chianti Classico styles) with a perfect playground, offering warm enough conditions for grape sugar (alcohol) ripeness, a long growing season for textural ripeness, and cool nights for full aroma and flavour expression.

Trends for the region as a whole include the continuing shift to organics – about 40% of vineyards are certified organic, compared to less than 10% globally. The pristine, manicured Chianti vineyard is giving way to something scruffier, as native wild plants or sown cover crops are encouraged, to protect soils from erosive torrents of heat or rain.

The gradual waning of importance in blends of showy but heat-sensitive, climate change-averse international varieties such as Merlot is also apparent, as historic names like Canaiolo, Colorino and Malvasia

CHIANTI CLASSICO: THE FACTS

Vineyard area 7,080ha Communes Nine, between Florence and Siena: Radda in Chianti, Gaiole in Chianti, Greve in Chianti, Castellina in Chianti; parts of Barberino Val d’Elsa, Castelnuovo Berardenga, San Casciano in Val di Pesa, Tavarnelle Val di Pesa and Poggibonsi Producers (Chianti Classico DOCG) 315

Production (Chianti Classico DOCG) Some 36m bottles on average annually, 2008-2018 – about four times that of Brunello di Montalcino not only re-emerge but can assert their valuable bit-part role in wines whose ‘conscious uncoupling’ from Cabernet and Merlot is underway.

CHIANTI CLASSICO: KNOW YOUR VINTAGES

2018

Cool, drizzly season. Grapes battled for light, heat, hydration. Extended, grinding harvest. Mainly short-haul wines. 2017

Spring frost nipped the buds. Dry weather then shrivelled what grapes remained. Yields 27% down compared to the average, but reasonably balanced wines. Drink 2020-2023.

2016

Summer sometimes scorching. Cooler spells and pre-harvest rain crucial.

Some brilliant, vibrant, sleek, 100%-Sangiovese gems. Wines with even 5% Merlot noticeably weedier. Drink 2020-2030. 2015

Large crop. Some very hot days, cool nights. Those who avoided roasted grapes made rich, round wines. Long-haul potential. Drink 2020-2035. 2014

Cool, goose-bump vintage. Cloudy skies. Tightrope viticulture. Umbrellas ubiquitous. Dusty wines indicate compromised fruit. The best show unassuming, crunchy fluidity. Drink.

2013

Vines were sleepy in spring, sunbathed all summer, then kept their cool into late autumn. Some super wines, bright, and both supple and crunchy. Drink 2020-2028.