Riccardo Baldi

LA STAFFA – CASTELLI DI JESI, LE MARCHE (BORN 1990)

The youngest of these young guns, Riccardo Baldi expresses himself with the confidence and composure of someone who has decades of experience. To his credit, Baldi already has 11 harvests under his belt, having started his own winery at the tender age of 19.

Yet rather than viticulture or oenology, Baldi studied economic science, as he wasn’t sure how long he would enjoy making wine. ‘After a year, I was in love and knew I would continue this work,’ he says.

Baldi credits Lucio Canestrari from the neighbouring winery of Fattoria Coroncino for teaching him that crafting quality wine requires bold choices. For Baldi, this meant farming organically from the start. ‘Ten years ago, it was a decision that went against the norm.’ He also waits a few years after harvest to release his Riserva. ‘It’s the only way to make people understand that Verdicchio is capable of making ageworthy wine.’

Finally, he favours spontaneous fermentations, despite recognising the risk – particularly for someone who hasn’t studied oenology. ‘The wine is more complex and more representative of its terroir,’ he argues.

Baldi’s greatest desire is that his wines will not only help improve Castelli di Jesi’s reputation, but that the region will become recognised as one of the world’s great white wine zones.

La Staffa, Rincrocca Verdicchio Riserva, Castelli di Jesi Classico, Marche 2016 92 £ 23.75 Christopher Keiller

Rincrocca is selected from a 1.5ha plot sitting at 450m and planted in 1972. Fermented and aged in cement vats for 12 months, it offers subtle pastry notes, blanched almond and preserved lemon peel. Beautifully textured and concentrated without being heavy, its steely backbone carries the palate through to a long, saline finish. Don’t be afraid to tuck a couple of bottles away to see how it ages. Organic. Drink 2020-2025 Alcohol 13.5%