Cristiano Garella
CONSULTANT – PIEDMONT (BORN 1984)
No one knows Alto Piemonte better than local consultant Cristiano Garella. He is also among the greatest champions of this long-forgotten area far north of the famed vineyards of Barolo and Barbaresco. Though only 36, Garella’s CV reads like it belongs to someone with a lifetime of experience. And essentially, he has. At the age of 12, he started reading the great Luigi Veronelli’s wine publications. He was inspired then to buy his first bottle and began visiting legendary producers such as Angelo Gaja, Bartolo Mascarello and Matteo Correggia. ‘They were all very welcoming,’ he reminisces.
By 14, Garella landed a job in his resident region of Bramaterra, helping an elderly gentleman with his vineyard. He spent five years ‘learning from the old guard’ prior to starting university. Garella didn’t even finish his oenology degree, as he was headhunted by the historic Tenute Sella estate, where he served as winemaker for more than six years.
‘I am not a great oenologist,’ says the ever-humble Garella. ‘I am good at picking the right wineries to work with.’ He insists on estate-owned, well-managed, organically farmed vineyards.
Besides consulting for a dozen producers in Alto Piemonte, he has his own label with long-time friend Giacomo Colombera, called Colombera & Garella. He is also winemaking partner at Le Pianelle, founded by Alto Adige producer Peter Dipoli and German importer Dieter Heuskel. ‘Le Pianelle does not have family or historical roots,’ explains Garella. However, the team is recovering abandoned vines and applying old winemaking techniques to breathe new life into Alto Piemonte’s historic vineyards.
Colombera & Garella, Pizzaguerra, Lessona, Piedmont 2016 95
N/A UK www.colomberaegarella. it
Based in Bramaterra, the Colombera family has recently expanded its vineyard holdings to neighbouring Lessona. Upfront, evocative fragrances of wild ripe red berries, dried mint and sous-bois echo clearly on the palate. The tannins are fine but decidedly vertical, acidity is vibrant and there is an appetising saltiness. A thrilling tug-of-war between alpine woods and sandy beaches. Drink 2021-2031 Alc 13%