Francesco Cambria
COTTANERA – SICILY (BORN 1978)
Francesco Cambria’s wine calling came later in life. When his father passed away suddenly in 2008, he gave up his law practice in Milan and returned to his family’s estate on Mount Etna. ‘I never thought I would do this,’ he admits. ‘But I wouldn’t change anything.’
Together with his siblings, he picked up where his father left off. ‘He was fixated with Nerello Mascalese,’ says Cambria, explaining that his father’s project to make a massal selection from a plot of 70- to 80-year-old vines was cut short. ‘My brother and I continued this work and finished the plantings that he had planned.’
Cambria readily admits he is ‘not a winemaker’.
However, he collaborates closely with consultant Lorenzo Landi, who has worked with Cottanera since 2002. Under Cambria’s direction, Cottanera has come out with a number of new bottlings crafted from different Etna districts, or contrade. ‘It is still early days, but from my limited experience, I am sure this is the future of Etna wines.’
Cottanera, Etna Bianco, Sicily 2018 90
£ 17.50 The Wine Society
Cottanera first produced a Carricante in 2009 and has slowly been replacing plantings of international reds with this indigenous white variety. Aged on the lees in stainless steel for six months, the wine boasts a heady nose of a dewy spring morning. Lemon verbena, fleshy stone fruit and pear emerge from the mouthwatering, juicy core and a mineral-like sensation kicks in on the finish. Drink 2020-2022 Alc 12.5%