Howard’s pick: 12 top Aglianicos
Mastroberardino, Radici, Taurasi, Campania 2015 96
£ 36.95 Vintriloquy
A benchmark for Aglianico, Radici was first produced in 1986. A wine to age for decades, yet surprisingly approachable now. Great density with concentration and depth. Aged two years in oak and two in bottle, this has intense, pure fruit allied to subtle oak, fine tannins and elegance. Some smoky, mineral flavours starting to appear. Ultrarefined. A wine with real sense of place. Drink 2023-2050 Alcohol 13.5%
Elena Fucci, Titolo 20th Anniversary, Aglianico del Vulture, Basilicata 2017 96
£ 35 Lay & Wheeler, Millésima
This anniversary edition adds even more concentration and structure to the ‘standard’ Titolo. From a single parcel of 75-year-old vines, the nose is intriguing with a potpourri of dried leaves and a complex spices and herbal/balsamic notes. Plenty of tannic grip on the palate, balanced with pure, vibrant dark fruit. Will age several decades. Drink 2024-2050 Alc 14%
Feudi di San Gregorio, Serpico, Irpinia, Campania 2012 95 £40.10-£46.50 Exel, Hallgarten Wines, Vintriloquy, Vinvm, Wine Poole
A great Irpinian Aglianico which balances power and refinement. From the 400m-high Dal Re vineyard, only 10,000 bottles were produced. Hugely concentrated with impenetrable colour. Although there is great fruit density here, the wine retains wonderful lift. It saw 12 months’ ageing in new oak before five years in bottle. Will live 50 years. Drink 2020-2055 Alc 14.5%
Luigi Maffini, Cenito, Cilento, Campania 2015 95
£ 34.75 Lea & Sandeman, WoodWinters
A supremely elegant example of coastal Aglianico. Understated and precise, with lovely acidity and a wave of fine tannins. From Luigi Maffini’s Castellabate site, overlooking the Tyrrhenian sea. 12 months in oak, 40% new; shows a lovely leafy touch with purity of fruit and a long, lingering, salty finish. Drink 2022-2045 Alc 14%
Luigi Maffini, Klèos, Cilento, Campania 2016 93
£44/magnum WoodWinters
Impressive, complex coastal Aglianico displaying rich, dark fruits and notes of crushed shell on the nose. Concentration, but no hint of heaviness despite the ripeness of dark cherry and plum fruit. The tannins are still evident and need a little longer, but this will age beautifully. Restrained and fresh to finish. Drink 2021-2035 Alc 14%
Vigneti Tardis, Sabato, Cilento, Campania 2017 93
£ 25 Field Morris & Verdin, Noble Green
100% Aglianicone, with bright, fresh red cherry and damson on the palate, softened after ageing in old 500-litre barrels. Very low levels of SO , unfined and unfiltered. This is a crunchy, modern style, retaining some grip and bright acidity, but finishing with freshness and appealing black-pepper and spice notes. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 13%
Alovini, Alvolo, Aglianico del Vulture, Basilicata 2016 92
£7.95 The Wine Society
Renowned winemaker Oronzo Alo moved from Salento to Vulture and set up Alovini in 2003. This refined, gracious wine is great value. From 20- to 30-year-old vines, aged in new barrels for 12 months with a further year in bottle. Dark fruit dominates the palate, with intense spice, berry and smoky notes on the nose. Can age for many years. 2020-2030 Alc 12.5%
Feudi di San Gregorio, Basilisco Teodosio, Aglianico del Vulture, Basilicata 2015 92
£ 15.36-£ 16.45 Dulwich Vintners, Hallgarten Wines, Strictly Wine
Basilisco is the Vulture winery of Feudi di San Gregorio. From a 6ha site at 500m, this balances fleshy fruit flavours with a savoury aftertaste. There is something a little on the wild side in this Basilicata Aglianico, with crisp acidity, fine tannins, and a very long, mineral finish adding freshness. Drink 2020-2032 Alc 13.5%
La Guardiense, Janare Lùcchero, Sannio, Campania 2015 95
£ 14.50 Jeroboams
Winemaker Marco Giulioli believes this was the best vintage in the past decade, with rain just before picking not affecting the quality. Smooth, elegant, deep and concentrated with dark berries and spice on the palate. Fresh finish with a cleansing, mineral edge. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13%
Mastroberardino, Redimore, Irpinia, Campania 2016 92
N/A UK www. mastroberardino.com
Made with fruit from a single vineyard of Antonio Mastroberardino’s pre-phylloxera clone vines on the Mirabella estate, Piero Mastroberardino calls this wine a ‘baby’ Radici. Matured in small oak barrels, deep and brooding in colour, with a lifted floral perfume and hints of spice on the nose. Retains the classic Aglianico lightness on the finish. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 13.5%
Cantina di Venosa, Terre di Orazio, Aglianico del Vulture, Basilicata 2015 91 £ 12.99-£ 15 Bacchanalia, Field & Fawcett,
Grape & Grind, Kwoff, The Vineyard
Named after Horace (Orazio), the Roman poet born in Venosa in 65BC. An elegant Vulture wine with pronounced aromas of wood spice on the nose from 12 months in two-year-old wood. Full and fleshy, with density of dark black fruit on the palate, this brooding Aglianico will age well. Finishes with typical lightness and lift. Drink 2020-2028 Alc 14%
La Guardiense, Farfallone, Sannio, Campania 2016 91
£ 10.95 Corney & Barrow
Vibrant, spicy, dark cherry and violet on the palate. A younger 2016, the tannins will soften through 2020, but there is plenty of elegance and complexity here already. Crisp acidity and a smoky, mineral finish add freshness and character. Another beautifully crafted Aglianico from Marco Giulioli. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 13%