A taste of Sardinia: Hulme’s Sulcis top 12
Agricola Punica, Samas, Isola dei Nuraghi 2019 93
£ 14.95-£ 16.28 (2018) Armit, Field & Fawcett, Hic
Wonderful wildflower bouquet with peachy and grapey notes. Vivacious, bright, tingling and full of flavour. Young and delicious, it dances on the palate. One of the best Vermentino blends I’ve tried. Drink 2020-2024 Alcohol 13%
Cantina Mesa, Buio Buio Riserva, Carignano del Sulcis 2016 95
£ 27.50-£ 28.52 Exel, GP Brands, Vinvm, Wine Direct
This is a wonderfully expressive, vibrant wine with notes of cream, cassis and sweet spice. Dark, intense flavours of very ripe blackberry with a rich, velvety texture, full and concentrated but lively too. Superrefined tannins with a long, lingering finish. Drink 2020-2028 Alc 14%
Enrico Esu, SeRuci, Carignano del Sulcis 2016 95
£ 23.50 Raeburn Fine Wines
From 100-year-old vines grown on their own rootstocks. Smoky and Port-like, with macchia mediterranea, dried fruit and iron-mineral notes. Voluptuous velvet texture intercut with wild-herb flavours and a sea-salty, tangy finish. Characterful, intriguing wine. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 14%
Cantina Giba, Seimura, Carignano del Sulcis 2016 94
£ 28 Drinks & Co
Winner of the Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri for the last two years. Beautiful, bright aromas of blackberry, citrus and cedar. Lovely texture and depth; round, smooth and medium-bodied with fine, spicy tannins. Finish is juicy, with dark-liquorice flavours. Drink 2020-2028 Alc 14.5%
Enrico Esu, NeRo Miniera, Carignano del Sulcis 2017 94
£ 18 Raeburn Fine Wines
A wine dedicated to Enrico’s father. Bright, intense nose with damsons, blackcurrant, blackberry, crushed rose and violet. Velvety, yet lively and energetic. Light, fine, ripe tannins. Combines concentration and vivacity. Tangy black-olive finish. Drink 2020-2028 Alc 14%
Agricola Punica, Barrua, Isola dei Nuraghi 2016 93
£ 34.30 Armit
This stylish blend of Carignano and 15% Bordeaux varieties has blackcurrant, tomato leaf, sweet spice and cinnamon aromas and a silky texture. Concentrated without being too heavy. Finely integrated tannins. Classy. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 15%
Argiolas, Cardanera, Carignano del Sulcis 2018 92
£ 17.60 Tannico
Creamy, with sweet spice, ripe black fruit and liquorice. Rich, with an initial impression of sweetness. Flavours of ripe strawberry, dried fruit and brown sugar are balanced by a salty, savoury finish and beautifully refined tannins. International style. Drink 2020-2028 Alc 14%
Cantina di Calasetta, Aina Riserva, Carignano del Sulcis 2016 92
N/A UK www.cantinadicalasetta. it
Aromatic, with soft red fruits, strawberry, spice, dried cherry and wild herbs. A palate of ripe fruit, nice acidity and freshness, plus fine-textured, silty tannins and a salty tang. From vineyards with 100-year-old vines. Drink 2020-2028 Alc 14%
Cantina Santadi, Terre Brune, Carignano del Sulcis Superiore 2015 90 £ 36.50-£45.50 AG Wines, Exel, GP Brands, Great Western Wine, Great Wines Direct, NY Wines of Cambridge, The Fine Wine Co, Vintriloquy, Wine Direct
This flagship wine expresses a firm, chewy backbone of tannins. I might have expected finer tannins from old-vine Carignano. Mint and bramble aromas; a concentrated palate with grippy tannins. Traditional style. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 15%
Cantine Sardus Pater, Arruga,
Carignano del Sulcis Superiore 2015 90 N/A UK www.cantinesarduspater. it
A good wine, though too much sweet spice covers the fruit. Voluptuous texture with refreshing acidity and tangy savouriness, a long finish and dark-liquorice flavours. A strong sense of the Sulcis identity. Drink 2020-2025 Alc 15%
Sella & Mosca, Terre Rare Riserva, Carignano del Sulcis 2015 87
£ 15.76 (2014) Alivini, GP Brands
Aromas of sweet vanilla and cream, plus an earthy, sous-bois note. Round and creamy, with gamey, leathery flavours balanced by fresh acidity. Lacks precision, brightness and terroir focus, which the producer feels may be the effect of clay soils on the Carignano. Drink 2020-2026 Alc 13.5%
Tanca Gioia, U Tabarka, Roussou, Carignano del Sulcis 2015 87
N/A UK www.u-tabarka. it
From a relatively new winery on San Pietro island, with vines grown on sandy, volcanic soil. Softly creamy style, full on the palate with round, gentle tannins. Ripeness gives an off-dry impression. Lacks some identity. Drink 2020-2027 Alc 15%
D