DOMAINE JEAN GRIVOT

This is a historic domaine that has been revitalised since 2017 when Etienne and Marielle’s young daughter Mathilde took over from her father, becoming the fourth generation in the family to manage the 15ha estate. Tasting at Jean Grivot is a study on the terroirs of Vosne-Romanée. There are six premiers crus and two different bottlings of village Vosne-Romanée, plus no fewer than three grands crus (two from Vosne-Romanée and one from Vougeot).

Mathilde is extremely articulate, thoughtful and charming. She is clear about where she wants to take the domaine: ‘We are looking for refined tannins and less new oak.’ The result is greater precision and clarity of flavours in recent vintages. The most noticeable difference between the wines of Mathilde and her father Etienne is in the texture of the tannins – Mathilde’s wines, starting with the 2017 vintage, have a silkier texture and finergrained tannins. All of her wines in 2018 are simply gorgeous.

Domaine Jean Grivot, Vosne- Romanée 2018 92

£47-£49.50 (ib) Averys, House of Townend, Howard Ripley, Justerini & Brooks, Lay & Wheeler, Uncorked

Even at the village level, the 2018 wines from Grivot are intense and beautiful. Enticing nose with ripe raspberries, cherries and crushed violets. Suave on the palate and quite intense with velvety tannins and a lingering finish. One of the best Vosne-Romanée village reds I tried in 2018. Destemmed and matured for 18 months in barrique, 25% new. Drink 2023-2031 Alc 13%