Howard tastes the latest releases

Hamilton Russell Vineyards, Chardonnay, Hemel- en-Aarde 2019 93 £ 34 Frazier’s, Harrogate Fine Wine Co, Hedonism, Jeroboams, The Oxford Wine Co,

The Wine Reserve, Thorne Wines

A very fine Chardonnay made in difficult circumstances given the fire/smoke issues in the Western Cape. Unlike the 2019 Pinot Noir (below), this has been made with 100% estate fruit, and is very successful. Bunches were pressed whole (rather than destemmed) to reduce smoke taint risks. Very crisp on the palate with fine acidity and a touch of stone fruit, this is mineral, concentrated and elegant. Very youthful, so ideally give it another 12 months to blossom. Drink 2021-2027 Alcohol 13%

Ashbourne, Sandstone, Hemel- enAarde 2019 92

£ 16.99 Thorne Wines

An intriguing blend of 49% Sauvignon Blanc, 26% Semillon and 25% Chardonnay from vines grown on quartzitic sandstone soils, fermented using Hamilton Russell’s own endemic Sauvage wild yeast (identified in 1993) and fermented in amphorae and ceramic eggs. Mineral, crisp and fine, this shows pristine purity, with hints of lemon and lime fruit. Great value. Drink 2020-2025 Alc 13.5%

Southern Right, Sauvignon Blanc, Walker Bay 2019 91

£ 12 Cadman, Hard to Find Wines, Noble Green, Roberts & Speight, The Drink Shop, The Wine Reserve, Thorne Wines

2019 is the 25th vintage for this wine. Anthony Hamilton Russell says he is not trying to emulate New Zealand, but that he is working against excessive varietal expression. With 4% of the blend matured in barrels previously used for Hamilton Russell Chardonnay, this is a superelegant Sauvignon with a sappy, savoury style, making it more akin to a MenetouSalon than many New World Sauvignons. Drink 2020-2023 Alc 13.5%

Ashbourne, Pinotage, Hemel- en-Aarde 2017 94

£44.50-£46.95 NY Wines of Cambridge, Jeroboams, Villeneuve Wines

A very refined, elegant Pinotage. Carbonic maceration was used on a small part of the crop and the juice retained to blend in post-fermentation, adding extra fresh fruit character. A fresher style than the weighty 2016, this is aged in 400-litre barrels for nine months before spending more time in specially commissioned, neutral François Frères foudres. One of the Cape’s finest Pinotages, showing how good this grape can be in the right hands. 225 cases made. Drink 2022-2027 Alc 13.5%

Ashbourne, Pinotage- Cinsault, Swartland 2019 92

£ 16 Villeneuve Wines

Grapes for this elegant blend are sourced from a Certified Heritage Vineyard in Swartland on decomposed granite soils, where old vines reach maturity at lower potential alcohol, with lower acidity and higher pH. The main component is 86% Pinotage, with 14% Cinsault. Light in style, with red-berry fruits to the fore, this is juicy, lush and bright. Ideal summer drinking. Drink 2020-2022 Alc 12.5%

Hamilton Russell, Pinot Noir, Walker

Bay 2019 92

£ 34.95-£ 37.80 Hedonism, Hennings, Jeroboams, Secret Bottle Shop, The Wine Reserve, Uncorked

Anthony Hamilton Russell hopes this will be a unique wine – his only Pinot Noir to be made with bought-in grapes (generously sold to him by other top-quality producers when fires affeced 84% of his estate fruit). A blend of grapes from Upper Hemel-enAarde and the Ridge, this is approachable already, with attractive red fruits and a slight earthiness – a fine effort in trying circumstances. Labelled Hamilton Russell, rather than Hamilton Russell Vineyards, to distinguish it. Drink 2021-2026 Alc 13.5%

Southern Right, Pinotage, Walker Bay 2019 91

£ 21 Mentzendorff

2019 is the 25th vintage for this powerful, fruit-driven Pinotage. This doesn’t spend time maturing in foudres, avoiding wood influence to accentuate the dark berry, spicy fruit flavours. A nice example of the rapidly improving quality of Western Cape Pinotage, ready to drink on release. 2,000 cases. Drink 2020-2024 Alc 13.5%

For nine more of Andy Howard MW’s Hamilton Russell tasting notes, please go to Decanter.com/premium