Panel tasting: Provence rosé 178 wines tasted

The consistent style of the dry rosés in this beautiful, sprawling part of southeast France can make nuances hard to distinguish. But there are quality cues to look for, explains Elizabeth Gabay MW

rovence runs from the Mediterranean coast in the south to the foothills of the southern Alps in the north, from the Rhône valley in the west to Italy in the east. Winemakers work to reconcile ‘Provence’ as a unifying brand expressing regional identity.

There are eight appellations: Côtes de Provence, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence and Coteaux Varois-en-Provence are the three main producers. Bandol, famous for big reds, was traditionally a producer of structural, ageable rosés, but today many are lighter in style for early summer drinking.

Tiny Palette and Bellet, in the city of Nice, both produce some rosé, as do Cassis, known for its white wines, and Les Baux-deProvence. There are also a number of IGP labels, with IGP Méditerranée covering the entire region. 90% of production is rosé.

PEssential Provence

Côtes de Provence covers a large area, with regional sub-zones identified: La Londe and Pierrefeu, just inland, are both on schist soils, typically giving their wines a mineral edge. The limestone slopes of Ste-Victoire produce wines with broader, fresher acidity, emphasised by some altitude. Fréjus, on the red volcanic slopes of the Esterel massif, produces wines with more structure, while the newest region, Notre-Dame des Anges in the warm central valley of Provence, produces rounder, ripe fruit.

Coteaux d’Aix, equally diverse, has no indicated sub-zones. Coteaux Varois is based on cooler uplands stretching to the north.

There are 18 estates in the Côtes de Provence classed as cru classé – a designation created in 1955, as much as 22 years before the appellation itself – their reputation based on history rather than commonality of terroir.

Wines with denomination de terroir, cru classé, and from the smaller appellations of Cassis, Les Baux and Bellet are often pricier. Coteaux Varois, Coteaux d’Aix and the IGP wines offer excellent value, with IGP sometimes a second label or a more experimental wine from better-known estates.

The wines are blends, with Grenache and Cinsault as the primary varieties, and Cabernet

Sauvignon, Mourvèdre and Syrah variously contributing blacker fruit notes. Braquet is unique to Bellet. A quarter of production is made by family-owned estates, the rest by cooperatives and négociants who blend across the region, giving a single Provence style.

Most rosés are pale, historically proof that the wine was not a by-product of red wine. While some today are extraordinarily pale, verging on blanc de noir, a few are a shade darker, often reflecting a fruitier style.

A good vintage, in terms of both size and quality. Good to age, with some showing better after a year in bottle.

2018

A small, weaker vintage where négociant wines saved the day with strategic blending. Particularly pale colour. Most to drink up, but some surprises with a few ageing well.

2017

A small vintage due to spring frosts and a hot, dry summer. Good quality, good fruit. Ageing well.

2016

A small, dry vintage with concentrated berries resulting in fruity rosés, although some lack essential freshness and acidity. Best to drink.

2015

Small vintage but excellent quality. Ageing well, drink up.

2014

A cool vintage which resulted in fresh vibrant rosés. Ageing well, drink up.

Provence offers dry rosés, the simplest balanced by ripe fruit, the more complex having weight and structure. It is usually this latter style which best handles the use of oak – contentious, with claims its heftiness masks the delicacy of a true Provence rosé. Most wines are able to age well for two to three years, some for longer. Almost one third of the wines are organic.

Elizabeth Gabay MW is a wine journalist, author and educator