HAUT-MEDOC

Bernard d’Halluin, a businessman from northern France in the Pas-de-Calais region, has been owner here since 2008. Sensibly, he kept previous owner Olivier Sèze on board as director for the first five years, ensuring the pairing of d’Halluin’s ability to invest and think big with Sèze’s experience and knowledge of the land – a combination that has been rewarded with this promotion. Sèze has now stepped back for new technical director Sébastien Pineau, and the team continue to impress with their detail-oriented work. This is prime-location land, 27.5ha on the banks of the Gironde estuary (with its softening influence, no frost here) in the St-Seurin-de-Cadourne commune just to the north of St-Estèphe, and right next door to the iconic Château SociandoMallet. Planted to 48% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot, bottled unfiltered and unfined. This was also one of the first estates in the Médoc to practise precision vineyard techniques such as leaf-thinning and green harvesting, as well as moving to gravity-feed in the winery, getting rid of all pumps for moving the wine.

Château Charmail, Haut- Médoc CB 2016 94

£ 11.33 (ib)-£ 19.37 Cru, Crump Richmond Shaw, Fine & Rare, Millésima

Tons of personality and concentration, delivering on 2016 expectations. Cassis, chocolate, slate, clear oak toasting well handled. One that shows the value at this level of cru bourgeois. The Petit Verdot makes a definite contribution to spice and colour. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 14.5%

Bernard d’Halluin and daughter Marie, Château Charmail