LISTRAC-MEDOC
This château lays claim to the highest point of the Médoc, with the 43m ‘roof of the Médoc’ plot called Puy de Menjon. The name Lestage comes from the family who owned the land in the 15th century. The gorgeous Napoleon III château was built in 1870, but it didn’t take its current shape until 1963 when Marcel Chanfreau, then a winemaker in Algeria, returned to France with his family and installed them in Listrac. His grandchildren Guillaume and Loïc Chanfreau are in charge today, with Loïc running the commercial side and Guillaume the technical side, and their cousin Marion in charge of wine tourism. A new cellar opened at Lestage in 2016, with stainless steel trionic vats, all extremely sleek with black walls and polished concrete grey floors. The 45ha plantings are at 62% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Petit Verdot, with plans to slightly increase the Petit Verdot and Merlot and lower the Cabernet Sauvignon by 2022, reflecting the clay-limestone soils. The same family owns Château Fonréaud – a wine that I often find a preference for in many vintages, although one that has not been made cru bourgeois exceptionnel. Recent soil studies have led to greater plot-by-plot viticulture, grass is grown in between the rows and no chemical herbicides or pesticides are used. Antoine Médeville is the consultant since 1998.
Château Lestage, Listrac CB 2016 89 £8.17 (ib) Crump Richmond Shaw
The acidity is marked, even for a high-acidity year like 2016, but balanced by bramble fruits, soft leather and black truffle notes. More reminiscent of the fruit-forward 2015 than the often knitted-down 2016s. Good quality and enjoyable, no need to wait to drink. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 14%