Travel: Piedmont – Langhe and beyond Alessandra Piubello
You could easily devote an entire trip to the Langhe area alone, with its endless rolling hills covered in vines, fabulous range of places to stay and world-class gastronomy seemingly at every turn. But, says Alessandra Piubello, you can roam further afie
Lying at the foot of the Alps in the northwestern corner of Italy, Piedmont is sheltered on three sides by mountains (the Alps and Apennines), and blessed with the ideal climate for viticulture. Here, the vines and landscapes seem to create a living painting: simply letting your gaze wander down the rows of vines provides a sense of plenitude rivalled by few places on earth.
Piedmont embodies the history and culture of Italian wine, and draws wine lovers from around the world. It is famous for its ‘Three Bs’ – Barolo, Barbaresco and Barbera. The first two, made only from Nebbiolo grapes, are its most prestigious wines; the third is for everyday drinking. That said, the region’s sheer diversity of native varieties can leave even the most clued-up connoisseur feeling overwhelmed. The vines planted on this well-suited terroir are often centuries old, nurtured by generations of skilled wine-growers who have clung to tradition and produced some incredible wines.
Immersive Langhe
All of Piedmont’s wine-growing zones make fantastic destinations for gastronomic, viticultural and cultural tours, and can be
Key grapes Red Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto; White Moscato Bianco, Arneis, Cortese, Erbaluce
loosely grouped into four macro-areas. First, let’s head into the heartland of Piedmont wine: Langhe e Roero, with its bucolic landscape dominated by hills scattered with vineyards, is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Alongside the iconic Barolos and Barbarescos, other wines to taste here are Arneis (white), Roero (mainly Nebbiolo) and Dogliani (Dolcetto).
There are some 14 regional wine shops, many housed in castles and stately homes, which offer buying advice and tastings. The area is also home to the celebrated white truffle – the town of Alba holds an annual truffle festival during October and November – and there are many shops selling this local treasure. Take your love of truffles a step further and accompany a trifolau (truffle-hunter) with his faithful tabui (truffle-hunting dog), or enjoy a tasting experience: book through the Centro Nazionale Studi Tartufo (www.tuber.it).
And be sure not to miss the Saturday food market in Alba’s streets and squares. As well as truffles, one of the world’s finest hazelnut varieties, the IGP Nocciola Tonda Gentile, is cultivated here and is the key ingredient for many of the local sweets and desserts.
If you love walking, the Mangialonga (www.mangialonga.com) is a 4km hike through the vineyards of La Morra, with plenty of food and wine tasting along the way. Suspended in 2020 due to Covid-19, it will next be held on
‘Simply letting your gaze wander down the rows of vines provides a sense of plenitude rivalled by few places on earth’
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