Ahmed’s 10 of the best from McLaren Vale
Zerella, La Gita Fiano 2018 91
£ 12.50-£ 16.90 (2017) Jaded Palates, Tilley’s Hand-harvested from Peters Creek Vineyard in Kangarilla, at 330m, a portion of grapes for this fresh, unoaked Fiano was whole-bunch pressed. A lively, citrussy example of this Campanian variety. White pepper, fennel, celery salt and orange zest on a grapefruity, mouthwatering palate. Nice intensity, with a saline edge to the finish. Drink 2020-2022 Alcohol 13.5%
Bekkers, Syrah 2017 96
£ 56.67 (ib) Atlas Fine Wine
A complex, balanced blend using about 20% whole bunches from Beautiful View vineyard (69%) on shallow, grey-brown sandy loam over calcrete at about 105m and Clarendon vineyard on red clay loam over siltstone, clay and gravel at about 125m. Svelte, spicy blackberry and raspberry, hints of mint, black olive, charcuterie and earth. Long and fluid with seamless tannins. It spent nine months in French oak puncheons, 62% new. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 14.5%
Thistledown, The Vagabond Old Vine Grenache, Blewitt Springs 2018 96 £ 21.95 Alliance Wine, Exel, The Whisky Exchange From old bush vines on deep sand, with some ironstone. Fermented using whole bunch, whole berry and crushed fruit, then aged in concrete eggs and oak. It has a lively, citrussy undertow and fine rub of tannins to the fragrant red cherry and raspberry fruit. Violets, anise spice and fresh acidity make for a long, lifted finish. Drink 2020-2028 Alc 14.5%
Samuel’s Gorge, Mosaic of Dreams 2017 95
£49.95 (2016) Tilley’s
Dark, brooding and seamlessly tailored Grenache (65%) Mourvèdre (25%) and Syrah ( 10%) with deep-seated spice, courtesy of fermenting with 25% whole-berry and wholebunch fruit and extended skin contact. Intricate layers of perfumed anise, clove, nutmeg, orange peel and leather over polished blackberry and plum fruit, cushioned and sustained by velvety tannins. Sumptuous.
Matured for 24 months in seasoned French oak. Drink 2020-2032 Alc 14.5%
Hither & Yon, Aglianico 2015 93
N/A UK www. hitherandyon.com. au
The Leask brothers won the McLaren Vale Wine Show 2019’s Bushing King Trophy with a Nero d’Avola, but this is a brawnier, compellingly savoury take on another southern Italian grape. Long and textural, with blackberry, salted black olives, leather, violets, bitter chocolate and wormwood. Grown on an alluvial fan of sand, clay and gravel. Aged 16 months in old French oak. Drink 2020-2025 Alc 14%
SC Pannell, Tempranillo-Touriga 2018 93 £ 17.65-£ 18.99 (2016) Alexander Hadleigh, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Exel, GP Brands, NY Wines of Cambridge, Oz Wines, The Fine Wine Co, Vinvm
The winner of my International Judge’s Trophy at the 2019 McLaren Vale Wine Show. Tactile graphite tannins lend savoury balance to this 57% Tempranillo, 43% Touriga Nacional blend’s animated juicy plum, blackberry and cherry fruit. Pronounced Earl Grey/bergamot lift, with hints of orange peel and peppermint. Persistent acidity and ruffled tannins tease out and entrap the flavours.
Aged five months in French puncheons (20% new), then eight months in foudres. Drink 2020-2026 Alc 14.2%
Aphelion, Emergent Mataro 2018 92
£ 31 Graft Wine Co
A great example of modern, approachable
Mataro (Mourvèdre), with a classic spicy, dry palate animated by juicy, persistent fruit. White pepper, clove, liquorice and orange peel notes lace its vibrant black cherry, berry and sour plum flavours. Individually fermented components from Blewitt Springs (destemmed), Willunga (50% whole bunch) and Sellicks (whole berry) aged in seasoned French oak prior to blending and bottling.
Drink 2020-2028 Alc 14.4%
Brash Higgins, GR/M 2018 92
£ 20.25-£ 22.90 Corking Wines, Cotswold
Wine Imports, Hic, Vinvm
A co-fermented blend of whole-berry Grenache (70%) and whole-bunch Mataro (30%) from Yangarra Estate’s acclaimed biodynamically certified Blewitt Springs vineyard. Early picking produces aromatic orange peel, dried herb and Angostura bitters notes to its blood-plum fruit, with musky, earthy spice and leather on a savoury finish. Wears its alcohol lightly. Aged 10 months in old French oak puncheons. Drink 2020-2024 Alc 14.9%
Oliver’s Taranga, Shiraz 2017 92
£ 17.50 Wanderlust Wine
A blend of 10 estate blocks up to 70 years old. Some extended maceration, matured for 17 months in French (70%) and American oak hogsheads, 20% new. A grind of pepper on top of generous, creamy blackberry and mulberry fruit, with mocha notes and a frame of ripe but savoury, textural tannins. Satisfying and good value. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 14.5%
Lino Ramble, Blind Man’s Bluff Bastardo 2019 92
N/A UK www. linoramble.com. au
Former Kay Brothers’ winemaker Andy Coppard embraces new climate-friendly varieties with gusto for his minimal-intervention grape-growing and winemaking. Spicy, with a light brush of tannins and herbal riffs, this pale, medium-bodied expression of Portugal’s Bastardo (aka Jura’s Trousseau) was part whole-bunch fermented and spent four months on its skins. Persistent, with lovely intensity to its jewel-bright red fruits. 2020-2023 Alc 13.8%