Pessac-Léognan & Graves
An attractive vintage in both Pessac and Graves, but with a little less consistency than in some vintages (as with Margaux for me: two appellations that outperformed their Left Bank siblings in, for example, 2015). There were many impressive performances in 2019, with a few instances of potential water stress or low acidities, a reflection of Pessac-Léognan’s location in one of the warmest spots of Bordeaux. No 100pt potentials here, but a good crop of 97s in HautBrion white and red, Haut-Bailly and Smith Haut Lafitte. It’s ridiculous that I feel I have to underline that 97 is an exceptionally good score that points to wines that are at the very top of the achievement of the vintage – but such is the impact of score inflation generally. In total, 12 wines scored 95pts or more (11 shown here), with more reds than whites achieving the highest numbers, including the brilliant Mission Haut-Brion, Malartic-Lagravière, Pape Clément and Domaine de Chevalier, plus an impressive white to note in Couhins-Lurton. At the ‘buy signal’ of 94pts I can point to Château Olivier white, Pape Clément white, Malartic-Lagravière white, Fieuzal, Le Pape and Le Thil (see Decanter.com/ Premium for full coverage).
Pessac-Léognan WHITES 19 TOP SCORING Château Haut- Brion 1CC 97
Clear difference in personality from La Mission Blanc, tons of rich texture, but more pulled-together, with the Sauvignon making its mark. Feels poised at exactly the right level of ripeness, where there is so much flavour, dripping with citrus and nectarine alongside hints of green leaf and juice. One to savour, a brilliant Haut-Brion Blanc with mouthwatering salinity on the finish. Drink 2021-2036 Alc 14%
Château La Mission Haut- Brion 96
A wonderful La Mission with a creamy feel through the core of the wine, and a saline tang on the finish that gives form and shape to the white pear and ripe nectarine fruits. Great grip, expansion and rise – hard to argue with the confident and mouthwatering delivery of this white. Drink 2021-2038 Alc 14%
Château Couhins- Lurton CCG 95
Always a brilliant white wine, one of the leading examples in Pessac-Léognan, and it’s excelling in 2019. Juicy but restrained lemon, lemon zest and stone-fruit flavours, alongside more complex slate and dried herbs. Will age if you can wait. As of this vintage, amphorae for 10% of production, with the aim of going up to 30% in future. Drink2021- 2032
Château Olivier CCG 94
Flourishes of jasmine on the first nose, quickly giving way to richly textured stone fruits, citrus and white-pepper spicing. Well measured and balanced, with a juicy finish, showing why this is one of the most consistently delicious whites of Bordeaux. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 13.5%
Château Bouscaut CCG 93
Always one of the richer, more textured Pessac whites, and it lives up to type in this vintage, given a welcome sense of restraint by savoury citrus freshness through the finish. Accomplished and confident, showing nectarine and white pear fruits, plenty to love. 40% new oak. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 14%
Château Carbonnieux CCG 93
A great Carbonnieux, with careful balance of juicy, salt-edged minerality and creamy nectarine and apricot fruits. Always a real highlight of the whites of the appellation and delivering another hit in 2019. Tasted twice, two weeks apart. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 13%
REDS 20 TOP SCORING Château Haut- Bailly CCG 97
Intense colour, with seductive black fruits on the attack. Quickly expands outwards in the mouth, so much depth with tiny pulses of electric flavour and grip. Feels very Haut-Bailly in its balance, energy and lift, with a clear savoury edge. Harvest ran from 23 September to 10 October, with a yield of 49hl/ha following a year that was 2°C above average through every month of the growing season except May. 4% of Petit Verdot completes the blend. Drink 2028-2042 Alc 13.7%
TOP SCORING Château Haut- Brion 1CC 97
Powerful and confident, there is no mistaking this concentration of ripe damson and black cherry fruits, set against coffee, earth, sage and black chocolate. Tons of tannins on display but they’re extremely fine, to the point that you almost don’t notice them, then once the wine has left your mouth you suddenly realise how many there are, and how they are still exerting a pressure. Great persistency, slowing everything down and asking you to stop and think. Clear ageing ability here. Drink 2029-2050 Alc 15%
21 TOP SCORING Château Smith Haut Lafitte CCG 97
The aromatics are highly seductive, the texture silky and round, tannins relatively soft as they were in 2018, but lots of them, layering up one on top of the next. Violet rim around the edge, all the signs of an excellent-quality en primeur sample are here. Not quite as lush as the 2018, a little more like the 2016 in structure at this stage, boding well for the future. Refined in style with cassis and blueberry – good focus and concentration. Tasted twice, three weeks apart, and both times seriously impressive. 1% Petit Verdot in the blend, 60% new oak. Drink2027- 2042
Château La Mission Haut- Brion CCG 96
Wonderful depth of flavour, a signature of this château that is just so elegant but is always happy to oblige in delivering delightfully sappy, seductive, gently spiced fruit. With its cigar box and tobacco notes, floral peony and iris aromatics, there is a great second wave that’s striking and increases the density and width of the palate. The oak already feels integrated even at this early stage. 50% of production went into the first wine. Drink 2028-2044 Alc 14.5%
Château Les Carmes Haut- Brion 96
Inky purple in colour, with peony and iris aromatics, then a whoosh of freshness that makes your mouth water before you’re even halfway through. This is extremely impressive and well balanced, with fine tannins and real discretion, but also hidden power and depths. Has clear floral character, along with an austerity that makes you celebrate minerality.
There are gourmet touches, but the focus is rather on slate, rosemary and crushed stones with hints of chocolate shavings alongside the damson and blackberry fruit. Vinified 80% in casks, 11% in 20hl wood and 9% in amphora, with 55% whole-bunch fermentation (which brings the alcohol down to this relatively low level, for the estate’s location). A wine to surprise those who think Bordeaux can’t deliver understatement. Drink 2024-2044 Alc 13.3%
Château Malartic- Lagravière CCG 95
A successful and accomplished vintage at Malartic, this is concentrated and upfront in its dark berry fruits, great control from the tannins, and tons of Pessac character and finesse. An estate that has become a serious heavyweight in the appellation, showing here gourmet, saline, precise character. 65% new oak. Drink 2026-2042
Château Pape Clément CCG 95
Continuing the strong performance of Pape Clément over recent vintages. Violet edging around the glass, and a supple tannic hold that both constricts and expands the fruit through the palate, giving a sense of momentum. There is a firm tannic grip, given drama by notes of black pepper and bitter chocolate, and a slate-textured finish to slow things down and hold the flavour. Malolactic fermentation in barrels (60% new), and ageing in both barrels (90%) and larger oak casks. Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc are planted in the vineyard, but not yet in the first wine. Certified bee-friendly. Tasted twice, two weeks apart, excellent both times. Drink 2027-2040
Domaine de Chevalier CCG 95
A lovely Chevalier, with rich tannins, juicy cassis and bilberry fruit, sage and pepper spice and a slate finish. Similar in style to warm but well-built years like 2000. Not the power of 2016, but this is an excellent wine, with lots to enjoy. 2% Petit Verdot in the blend. Drink 2027-2042
Château Fieuzal CCG 94
This is ripe and rich, with the fruit well expressed, plumped up on the attack, and firm tannins that make their mark. Really impressive Fieuzal that starts off with confidence and never strays over the line. Chocolate shavings and liquorice notes set against slate and savoury cassis, showcasing the Pessac tightrope between intensity and elegance. Drink 2026-2040
22 TOP VALUE Château Luchey- Halde 93
A recent vertical really drew attention to the value that can be found in this estate, and the 2019 is one to look out for. This is subtle, but there is a ton of hidden power and elegance underneath. Well made and carefully extracted, with grip and ageing potential. Very promising, has tension and notes of gourmet silky chocolate to add seduction. Drink 2023-2036
TOP VALUE Château Seguin 92
Great flesh and polish, loads of personality, and you feel like you are getting a lot of gourmet flavours for what is a good-value wine. Chocolate shavings and liquorice abound, and there’s good persistency overall. Drink 2023-2036
Graves WHITES 23 TOP SCORING Clos Floridène 93
This is delicious, a serious step up from the Reynon in the same stable, and speaks to the influence that terroir has – this is slate and crushed granite showing grip through the palate, and the citrus has plenty of zest to give it focus and lift. Juicy finish, excellent from Jean-Jacques Dubourdieu. 25% new oak. Drink 2020-2030
Château de Chantegrive, Caroline 92
Silky with clear weight and grip through the palate. Very much enjoyed the main estate wine in this vintage also, but this bottling has the edge in terms of clarity of fruit and persistency. Very good, still with the Graves balance and fresh acidities that you expect. Drink 2020-2026
REDS 24 TOP SCORING Château Peyrat 92
An impressive property that has been owned by Vignobles Martial-Dulor since 2016, started by three friends who had worked as merchants or winemakers for other people and who got together to start their own venture. They are backed up by small investors who made it possible, and have produced a really rather lovely, savoury wine here, with welljudged extraction of fruit and tannin and an excellent juicy frame overall. This is definitely a wine to watch, and very easy to recommend. Drink 2022-2035
TOP VALUE Château Haura 91
Recommended, from the Dubourdieu stable, an excellent Graves red in 2019, full of plump berry fruits from raspberry to cassis, alongside touches of smoked rosemary and soft black pepper, and so balanced as to give great appellation typicity. Drink 2023-2035 Alc 13.8%
Clos d’Uza 91
A special bottling recently launched between the Guignard family and Jean-Luc Thunevin, who has sensibly in my opinion spotted one of the best potentials in the Graves region. This must be the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the southern stretch of the Graves, with everything worked by hand and aged in 100% new oak. There is a tightness through the mid-palate that softens the impact of the cassis fruit, but real potential here, with a lovely lift on the finish. Drink 2024-2038