New York state: 10 names to know
CHANNING DAUGHTERS
The winery was founded in 1982 by Walter Channing in Bridgehampton on the South Fork of Long Island. Grapes planted include Friulano, Muscat Ottonel, Malvasia, Ribolla Gialla, Blaufränkisch, Dornfelder, Syrah, Teroldego, Refosco and Lagrein. The winery produces a dizzying array of styles. Nearly 12ha of vines are spread over five sites in Long Island’s characteristic silty loam soil on sand and gravel.
DR KONSTANTIN FRANK
Konstantin Frank ( 1899-1985) studied viticulture in Ukraine and managed Soviet wineries in the Republic of Georgia before emigrating to the US in 1951. His Riesling trials secured him the title of the ‘ father of vinifera’ in New York state, and his son Willy pioneered traditional-method sparkling wine production here. Grandson Frank and great- granddaughter Meaghan continue the tradition of innovation and quality.
ELEMENT WINERY
Master Sommelier Christopher Bates grew up in the Finger Lakes. Today he wears many hats: restaurateur, sommelier, winemaker and chef. After making wine in the Mosel and the Veneto, he returned to found a winery with his father. He started with Riesling, but by 2010 he’d focused on red wine and now makes some of the most convincing renditions of Cabernet Franc and Syrah around.
FORGE CELLARS
This is a collaboration between Louis Barruol of Château de Saint Cosme in Gigondas and wine-trade veteran Rick Rainey. They concentrate on dry Riesling and Pinot Noir from the east side of Seneca Lake. Founded in 2001, the winery purchased Bellows Vineyard in 2016, located on the steep and wellexposed slopes where grapes ripen superbly well in the afternoon sun.
HERMANN J WIEMER
Bernkastel native Hermann Wiemer realised his dream of making Riesling in the Finger Lakes in 1976 when he began to plant his 32ha site at Seneca Lake. There are now 55ha planted to 17 different grapes, although Riesling is 70% of the production. The vineyards are sustainably farmed and in biodynamic trials. All the estate fruit is hand-picked and sorted before fermentation on wild yeast.
NATHAN K
Youthful talent Nathan Kendall makes the wines for his own label Nathan K, for Hickory Hollow, and with Pascaline Lepeltier MS for her project Chëpìka, where they make still wine and pét-nat from the organically grown hybrid grapes Catawba and Delaware, sourced from Keuka Lake. All of the wines are made with few, if any additions, and as much purity as possible.
PAUMANOK VINEYARDS
Lebanese-born Charles Massoud and his German wife Ursula founded this estate in 1983. Today it includes 40ha under vine with 32ha in current production and new plantings (including Melon de Bourgogne) coming online soon. With their purchase of neighbouring property Palmer Vineyards, the Massoud family is one of the important names in Long Island wine.
RAVINES
Danish-born Morten Hallgren grew up on a winery in Provence and completed wine school in Montpellier. Today he is making some of the most exquisite terroir- driven Riesling anywhere. He began as head winemaker at Dr Konstantin Frank (see
above), but purchased his own vineyards in 2001. Today, Ravines owns more than 50ha spread over several sites and purchases fruit from the renowned Argetsinger vineyard to produce some of its most-lauded bottlings.
TERRASSEN CELLARS
This is the brainchild of noted sommelier Thomas Pastuszak from Manhattan’s NoMad restaurant. The winery is named for Austrian wines blended from sites too small to make a single-vineyard wine but which demonstrate the potential across a region. Pastuszak has a focused range, sourcing Blaufränkisch for rosé along with Gamay and Cabernet Franc. The wines are made in a savoury, fresh style, yet have enough juicy fruit to satisfy the hedonist.
TRESTLE 31
Nova Cadamatre MW was among the first viticulture graduates of New York’s Cornell University. She went on to become the head of winemaking for global giant Constellation Brands at its Canandaigua winery. Today, her day job is head winemaker for Robert Mondavi, but Trestle 31 is her personal project with husband Brian. They buy fruit for their production of Riesling and Chardonnay, but in 2015 they purchased land for a vineyard on Seneca Lake. A producer to watch.