New York top 10: Curtis recommends
1 Hermann J Wiemer, Blanc de Blanc Brut, Seneca Lake 2009 95
N/A UK www.wiemer.com
Among the best sparkling wines ever produced in the US, this 100% Chardonnay features lively lemony fruit on the initial attack with well-integrated notes of truffle and toast. The mousse is lively while the texture is creamy but still crisp and fresh. Produced from the Josef Vineyard, which ripens fruit exceptionally well, this is 10 years on the lees and disgorged without dosage. Absolutely exquisite! Drink 2020-2030 Alcohol 12%
Ravines, Brut, Finger Lakes 2012 92
N/A UK www. ravineswine.com
Superb sparkling Pinot Noir- Chardonnay from the limestone soils of the Argetsinger vineyard. Opens with lovely ripe apple and toast aromas, and six years on the lees brings a round, lush texture and a hint of brioche, while an extra-brut dosage of less than 5g/L ensures the wine stays lively and fresh. Almost perfect balance on the gently persistent finish. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 12.5%
2 Ravines, Argetsinger Vineyard Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes 2016 94
N/A UK www. ravineswine.com
Produced with fruit from mature vines on the southeast shore of Seneca Lake, this is world-class Riesling by any measure, featuring aromas of ripe apricot, citrus peel and fresh flowers with saline and mineral accents. The texture on the palate is tightly wound and taut, with just the slightest hint of sugar to balance the racy acidity. Impressive length and concentration on the finish. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 12.5%
3 Dr Konstantin Frank, Eugenia Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes 2019 93
N/A UK www.drfrankwines.com
From one of the early plots planted by Dr Konstantin Frank in 1968 on the shallow shale shores of Keuka Lake, this delivers aromas of ripe peach fruit with a pronounced petrolly, mineral edge. An excellent result from a relatively cool vintage, this is bone dry, light and crisp, yet there is an intensity and depth of flavour that is truly rewarding. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 12%
Trestle 31, Chardonnay, Finger Lakes 2017 93
N/A UK www.trestle31.com
Sourced from the Nutt Road Vineyard on the western shores of Seneca Lake, this 2017 was the product of a cool, damp season, delivering bright citrus fruit and aromas of fresh white flowers. Fermentation in a combination of cask and stainless steel gives just a touch of spice. The creamy texture brought by the lees ageing balances the impressively racy freshness of the vintage. Wonderfully reminiscent of a well-made Chablis.
Drink 2020-2030 Alc 13%
Forge Cellars, Leidenfrost Vineyard Pinot Noir, Seneca Lake 2018 93
£ 25 Bibenbum Wine
A benchmark for the region, this is produced in shale soils on the west-facing slopes of Seneca Lake. Initial aromas of ripe cherries with an earthy, mineral edge lead to a wine that is firm-textured, dry and fairly tannic, yet still generously fruity. The overall impression is one of lightness and elegance, but there is no lack of density here. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 12%
4 Silver Thread, Good Earth Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes 2019 92
N/A UK www. silverthreadwine.com Marvellously true to the Loire Valley tradition, this is produced from estate vineyards on the leeward side of Seneca Lake using regenerative and bio-intensive viticulture. The result is aged 10 months in old casks and delivers a wine light in colour but fragrantly aromatic, with notes of currant and cranberry and a suggestion of mint. The tannins are firm but completely ripe, and the texture is silky and delicate. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 12.8%
5 Terrassen, Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes 2018 92
N/A UK @TerrassenFLX
Fruit grown on mature vines on eastern Seneca Lake is cold-soaked in open-top vats and fermented on native yeasts.
The wine is deceptively light in colour yet shows ripe blackcurrant and cassis fruit that almost has an edge of dark chocolate to it. There is a richness that was completely unexpected and an impressive density and length – but without any astringency or heaviness. Marvellously good! Drink 2020-2030 Alc 12%
Channing Daughters, Home Farm Vineyard Lagrein, The Hamptons, Long Island 2017 91
£ 27 Wanderlust Wine
Relatively young vines produced this startlingly good Lagrein, with bright aromas of ripe mulberry fruit and a brambly edge. The fruit is picked by hand, destemmed and crushed by foot before fermentation on native yeasts and ageing in neutral barrels. The result shows plenty of tannins but a ripe density and crisp texture that carry it to a lingering finish. Drink 2020-2025 Alc 12.5%
6 Sheldrake Point, Riesling Ice Wine, Finger Lakes 2018 94
N/A UK www. sheldrakepoint.com
Super-rich and concentrated, this is densely packed with aromas of tropical fruit drenched in honey along with accents of white flowers and saffron typical of the best ice wines. Although immensely sweet (230g/L of residual sugar), there is enough acidity to keep it perfectly fresh and balanced. The finish is enormously long and lingers beguilingly on the palate. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 8.4%