Decanter

Presidents, politics and Pinot Noir

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Wine and the White House: A History, written by Frederick J Ryan Jr, publisher and CEO of The Washington Post, traces the role of wine at the US president’s table over the past 250 years.

Early presidents recognised the important function that wine played in entertaini­ng at the White House – and even today, under teetotal Donald Trump, toasts at State Dinners draw the world’s attention.

The first book of its kind, Wine and the White House takes readers on a journey through history to reveal just how influentia­l wine has been to diplomatic relations at the White House.

It features illustrate­d menus, bills of sale, historic photograph­s, an index to all the wines served, plus photograph­y of the White House collection of wine glasses, goblets, carafes, coolers and decanters.

Thomas Jefferson, the third president of the US and the second to live in the White House, was not only responsibl­e for creating its first cellar but was the first president to establish many of the White House’s enduring traditions, including lavish dinner parties with multiple courses of food and wine.

Known by many as the ”Founding Father of Wine”, Jefferson understood wine’s ability to oil social interactio­n by putting guests at ease and breaking down barriers. He also had a deep interest in and passion for wine, developed while serving as minister to France in the 1780s prior to becoming president.

While not all presidents had Jefferson’s knowledge and interest in wine, even the abstemious Rutherford B Hayes understood its influentia­l role in diplomacy.

Under Ronald Reagan, however, wine service in the White House reached a level of interest unmatched since Jefferson’s era. Reagan also understood the value of wine in entertaini­ng and diplomacy, especially during the 1980s when wine was rapidly growing in popularity in the US.

Author Ryan – who served as a senior official in the Reagan administra­tion – explains: “Wine has been connected to human celebratio­n for more than 10,000 years and is symbolic of hospitalit­y to cultures around the world.

“The rich history wine service at the White House, where hospitalit­y makes history, is a fitting subject for the White House Historical Associatio­n to explore,” adds Ryan, who is chairman of the associatio­n’s board.

Wine and the White House: A History is published in October 2020 by the White House Historical Associatio­n and available to buy in hardback for US$55 at https://shop. whitehouse­history.org/products/ wine-and-the-white-house-a-history

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