AYALA, CHEF DE CAVE

Latrive, who says she is ‘Champenoise through and through’, became chef de cave at Ayala in 2011. Choosing wine as her career, Latrive says, was ‘obvious’. She remembers the ‘smells of the cuverie’ when she would accompany her consultant father on client visits as a child. Born in Reims, with her qualifications from the university there, she gained experience at Piper Heidsieck, Roederer, Palmer and Bollinger, and in oenological consultancy.

She rejoined Bollinger when the familyowned company had just bought Ayala, working alongside Ayala’s cellar master for five years before taking the reins upon his retirement. Getting the top job was a challenge ‘for a woman in this environment’, she says, remembering ‘several pitfalls along the way, especially early on in my career’. She notes that these trials were ‘constructive and have only reinforced my determination’. She also says: ‘I was lucky to work for a house run by open-minded people who recognise your capabilities, qualities and competence rather than your gender.’

Since then, Latrive has made it her mission to ‘enhance the expression of Chardonnay – my favourite grape variety – across our cuvées with the greatest respect for the house style’. The completion of a new cellar in 2017 facilitates this. Doing a good job ‘demands someone who is passionate and who has a certain sensitivity’, she says, regardless of gender. Still, she offers these words of guidance to women: ‘Never let anyone discourage you, be passionate and invested, and most importantly be yourself.’

Ayala, Le Blanc de Blancs 2013 95 £ 36.67 (ib)-£ 55 Cambridge Wine Merchants, Dulwich Vintners, Finest Bubble, L’Assemblage, Majestic, Millésima, Noble Green, Plus de Bulles, The Whisky Exchange

A first whiff of lemon zest immediately sets the tone. More air and swirling then reveals a backdrop of chalk but also the enticing, cloudlike zestiness of lemon meringue pie. The palate comes in on very light feet – on tiptoe, in fact – but rather than mouth-puckering lemon, you get ultra-light, exquisite creaminess that almost has an edge of lemon oil, bedded on soft, gentle autolysis. A picture of elegance and lightness. Disgorged May 2016. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 12%

Caroline Latrive