Ramos Pinto, Quinta do Bom Retiro
Torto means ‘twisted’: an apt name for this narrow, deeply incised tributary on the south side of the Douro. There are no fewer than three properties called Retiro (‘retreat’), one of which belongs to Warre’s, one to Krohn and this, the largest and most famous, belonging to Ramos Pinto. The company developed Bom Retiro in the early 20th century on profits generated by the sale of Port to Brazil. As a result it boasts the earliest swimming pool in the Douro (cleverly disguised as an ornamental pond) and a level promenade shaded by palm trees designed for a gentle saunter after lunch or dinner. (This is without doubt a ‘good retreat’, as the name translates.)
But time hasn’t stood still here. From the 1970s onwards, Bom Retiro has been a crucible of experimentation, both in the vineyard and in the winery, under the aegis of João Nicolau de Almeida. Some of the first vineyard terraces (patamares) intended for mechanisation were built here.
Winemaking is now the responsibility of João’s younger cousin Ana Rosas, which keeps things in the family (although Ramos Pinto belongs to Champagne house Louis Roederer). Bom Retiro forms an important component in Ramos Pinto’s vintage Port (magnificent in recent years, including the 1994, 2000 and 2011) and is bottled as single quinta vintage in other good years, most recently 2018. However, I could not list Bom Retiro without including its utterly sublime single quinta tawny.
Ramos Pinto, Quinta do Bom Retiro
20 Year Old Tawny 98
£ 58 Banstead Vintners, Corkscrew Jersey,
Davy’s, Divine Fine Wines, Fine & Rare, Harvey Nichols, Roberson, Saxtys, St Andrews Wine Co,
The Whisky Exchange
Resplendent with its pale amber-tawny hue and just a glint of orange; appetising savoury aromas of lightly toasted almonds and slightly caramelised, mellifluous fruit. Fine and delicate, super-suave with that beautifully melded, savoury-sweet fruit (the hallmark of great tawny) and an incredibly long, fresh, elegant finish. Finely and perfectly poised. Drink 2020-2022 Alc 20.5%