Decanter

Quinta de la Rosa

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Sophia and her late father Tim Bergqvist in 1989

Quinta de la Rosa, on the banks of the Douro near Pinhão

There really can be no finer present than Quinta de la Rosa, which was given to Claire Feuerheerd for her christenin­g in 1906. The Feuerheerd­s (then important wine shippers in their own right) called the property La Rosa after their brand of Sherry, hence the Spanishsou­nding name. Although the Port firm was sold off in the 1930s, La Rosa still belongs to the same family. Having sold wine to a number of leading shippers in the interim, it was Tim and Sophia Bergqvist (Claire Feuerheerd’s son and granddaugh­ter) who bravely decided to strike out on their own in the late 1980s.

The predominan­tly south-facing vineyards at La Rosa rise from the river at about 90m-400m above sea level, making for a wide range of meso- and microclima­tes. Built into the terraces just above the river and the railway line, the rather topsy-turvy house at La Rosa is one of the most appealing in the Douro. The Bergqvists have developed a small hotel, guest houses and restaurant (Cozinha da Clara) at La Rosa, making the most of this beautiful family property. After nearly four decades at the helm, Tim Bergqvist died in the summer of 2018. The wine I’ve selected, from his last vintage, is a fitting tribute.

Quinta de la Rosa 2017 94

£45 Bibenbum Wine, JN Wine

From a hot, dry, generally declared year, this has really flowered beautifull­y in bottle: deep colour, restrained but with a lovely floral scent emerging in the glass. There is dark chocolate intensity with fresh brambly fruit and ripe, gravelly tannins. No heavyweigh­t, but wonderful overall balance expressed on a long, lithe finish. Drink 2025-2035 Alc 20%

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