Decanter

Graham’s, Quinta dos Malvedos

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Grape sorting at Quinta dos Malvedos

Malvedos is synonymous with Graham’s, having been a key part of its renowned vintage Ports for more than a century. The quinta briefly parted company in the lean years of the early 1970s, but was repurchase­d by the Symington family in 1982. They replanted the vineyards and built a new winery, constructe­d sympatheti­cally from local schist. Stainless steel robotic lagares tread the grapes, one of the old granite lagares having been retained.

Covering nearly 100ha, the property is predominan­tly south-facing and rises from the river up to 400m altitude. A few north-facing terraces, planted predominan­tly with Touriga Nacional vines, are now producing a superpremi­um vintage Port for Graham’s known as The Stone Terraces.

Malvedos produces opulent, balanced, lasting wines that always stand the test of time, with single quinta wines from the late 1950s and early ’60s still drinking well.

Graham’s, Quinta dos Malvedos

2008 96

£ 28-£ 29 Banstead Vintners, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Sainsbury’s, Tesco

A small harvest after a relatively cool summer in 2008 made this an excellent year for SQVPs. Lovely deep, opaque, youthful colour; dense, still a bit withdrawn initially, this opened up to reveal wonderful opulence both on the nose and palate. Rich and spicy with supple tannins and glorious ripe plum and blackcurra­nt fruit leaving a long, voluptuous finish, in true Graham style. Drink 2025-2035 Alc 20%

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