Decanter

A taste of Wairarapa: Styles’ 10 to try (cont...)

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Urlar, Pinot Noir, Gladstone 2018 93 £ 17.50-£ 22.99 Exel, GP Brands, Great Wines Direct, Harrisons Fine Wines, Hole Foods Deli, Simply Wines Direct, The Fat Pigeon Wine Co, The Fine Wine Co, The Great Wine Co, The NZ House of Wine, Valvona & Crolla, Vinvm,

Wine Direct, WineApp, Winestore Winemaker Jannine Rickards has quite the CV: from assistant winemaker at Ata Rangi, with stints at Cloudy Bay, Julicher and a spell in the Adelaide Hills, she now runs the ship at Urlar and has her own brand too, Huntress, the wines of which are well worth seeking out. This Urlar

Pinot Noir boasts enticing, dark, smoky cherry aromas and a lovely, almost saline note to the long palate, along with fine tension, freshness and good tannins. Another great organic wine from Wairarapa. Drink 2020-2025 Alc 13%

Palliser Estate, Wharekauha­u Vineyard Pinot Noir, Martinboro­ugh 2018 92

£ 30 (ib) Justerini & Brooks

This needs a bit of air if opened young, as it’s a bit dumb on the nose at the moment and showing a bit of reduction. But there is a deep, plummy fragrance when you get to it, and the palate has beautiful fruit, structure and length. From a prime spot on the Martinboro­ugh Terrace, this is one of the first wines made by Palliser’s new winemaker Guy McMaster. This is an estate to watch over the next few years. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13.5%

Te Kairanga, John Martin Pinot Noir, Martinboro­ugh 2018 92

N/A UK www.tkwine.co. nz

Winemaker John Kavanagh was previously at the helm of cult Nelson producer Neudorf before crossing the Cook Strait to TK, as it is known locally. This has quite a vinous nose with a smoky, almost cinder aspect to it. The palate has a nice fruity weight and freshness. A supple wine, showing nice structure and length. Drink 2020-2025 Alc 13.5%

Ata Rangi, Crimson Pinot Noir, Martinboro­ugh 2018 91

£ 26.99 Liberty Wines, NY Wines of Cambridge, Philglas & Swiggot, Specialist Cellars

It’s tempting to recommend the superb Ata Rangi Pinot Noir, or the now dormant Craighall Chardonnay (the virused block is being replanted); even the Te Wa Sauvignon Blanc is impressive for the category. But this more affordable Pinot is a real showcase for both this organic winery and Wairarapa as a whole, boasting a glorious aroma of pomegranat­e and rose, rounded off with lovely cherry fruit on a supple palate. Drink 2020-2025 Alc 13.5%

Matahiwi Estate, Holly South Series Pinot Noir, Gladstone 2019 90

N/A UK www. matahiwi.co. nz

A big wine from a good vintage, crafted by Miles Dinneen, who hails from Hawke’s Bay. This shows a hint of bacon fat, a whack of oak, and really ripe, deep cherry and baked plum fruit on the nose. The palate still displays the characteri­stic Wairarapa signature, though: dry, with more restrained herb and cherry-stone characters. For lovers of more fruitforwa­rd Pinots. Drink 2020-2025 Alc 14%

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