Wairarapa: 10 names to know
ATA RANGI
Should need no introduction to lovers of Pinot Noir. A Martinborough original and one of the New Zealand greats, this winery still produces a host of fantastic wines from top vineyard sites under the deft hand of winemaker Helen Masters. Owner Clive Paton is an ardent conservationist and sales of the Crimson Pinot Noir benefit local regenerative plantings.
CAMBRIDGE ROAD
Martinborough’s very own natural winemaker, Lance Redgwell produces a range of wines and styles from his prime vineyard on the Martinborough Terrace, as well as collaborating with growers from as far afield as Gisborne and Hawke’s Bay. His winemaking will appeal to fans of the movement, but the site also turns up some real gems.
CRAGGY RANGE
Based near Hastings in the Hawke’s Bay region, a rare winery that makes Martinborough wines outside the region itself (some boutique producers also
source Wairarapa fruit). In fact, Craggy is one of the biggest players here with vineyard area running up to 200ha. Australian winemaker Julian Grounds was hired in 2018 and is one to watch.
DRY RIVER
Another Martinborough original and one of New Zealand’s first ‘cult’ wineries. Dry River has evolved over the years, but it still produces excellent wines, with winemaker Wilco Lam carrying on the flame from Poppy Hammond. The reds show real personality and sometimes a trademark brightness of fruit. The whites can also be superb, not least in the deft handling of varieties such as Viognier and Gewürztraminer.
ESCARPMENT
Winemaker Larry McKenna is a Martinborough – and Pinot Noir – veteran. He was doing whole- cluster ferments long before it was fashionable and his wines can often show this character – from glorious perfume to relatively grippy tannins when young. Escarpment wines tend to be deep, dense, sinewy and very well structured, the single-vineyard wines particularly so.
KUSUDA
Hiroyuki (known to most as Hiro) Kusuda has something of a cult following. Small quantities and attention to detail pay off in his wines, which show exceptional fruit purity and elegance. Any of his varietal bottlings, from Riesling to Pinot to Syrah, are well worth the money.
MARGRAIN
Another of the Martinborough originals. Originally known as Chifney, Margrain
caters entirely to the domestic market, although they say they will ship anywhere in the world for you if you ask. A lovely range of well- crafted wines made under veteran winemaker Strat Canning. One to try – if you can get your hands on the wines.
MARTINBOROUGH VINEYARD
Now part of the Foley portfolio (which also boasts Martinborough stalwart
Te Keiranga), MV, as it is known locally, is one of the originals. Its Home Block Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are reliable buys. Back vintages of Riesling can be special, as is the Syrah-Viognier in good years.
Often considered a ‘larger’ winery for the area (which means it’s still relatively small-to-medium sized in real terms) with a slick cellar door, Palliser owns some top-notch plots in town. Winemaker Guy McMaster has a lot of Martinborough experience and crafts some excellent wines – especially the single-vineyard Pinots and Chardonnays, as well as the fizz.
SCHUBERT
Kai Schubert and Marion Deimling set up this estate in 1998, planting their vineyards in the Gladstone sub-region. Their wines, especially the Pinots, are true flag- bearers for the potential of this area, showing real purity and beauty. The vineyards and wines have been organic since 2013.
Small and up-and- coming producers to watch: Drummond Farm, Grava, Le Grá, Huntress, Moy Hall