Californians stoic despite latest fire losses
Afierce wildfire has damaged several historic Napa Valley wineries and part of the Meadowood luxury resort, as well as destroyed homes, but winemakers have vowed to rebuild. Thousands were evacuated across parts of Napa and Sonoma Counties and more than 1,500 structures were destroyed as firefighters battled the fast-spreading Glass Fire that ignited in California on 27 September.
Several wineries reported damage. Cain Vineyard in Spring Mountain District lost its winery alongside the homes of three families living at the estate.
Howell Mountain’s Burgess Cellars saw its winery destroyed, but new owners the Lawrence family (Heitz Cellar) and Carlton McCoy Jr said vineyards were mainly spared. ‘We are incredibly grateful that our team members are unharmed and thankful for the wonderful firefighters,’ said McCoy Jr.
LVMH-owned Newton Vineyard reported damage to its winery and vineyards, but said some vines remained intact and a building holding bottled vintages survived.
Meadowood Napa Valley lost its clubhouse, including the luxury resort’s three-star Michelin restaurant, but the lower part of the estate, including the spa and guest cottages there, escaped damage, a spokesperson said.
Other wineries reported near-misses, while many across the wine community expressed heartfelt thanks to fire crews, and relief that team members were unharmed.
Beyond the direct path of the fire, winemakers still faced challenges. At Spottswoode, which finished picking Cabernet Sauvignon a day before the fire, the winemaking team ‘were absolutely amazing and worked with smoke respirators, tending the fermenting wines’, said president and CEO Beth Novak Milliken.
Spirit of resilience
While California’s Wine Institute said ‘fewer than 20’ wineries suffered damage in the Glass Fire overall, those affected spoke of their determination to rebuild.
‘All is not lost,’ said Chris Howell, Cain’s winemaker and general manager, and Katie Lazar, director of sales and marketing. ‘What remains are the amazing people of Cain, a large number of friends, supporters and customers of Cain, most of the magnificent Valley Oaks, much of the 36ha Cain Vineyard, and the wines, all safely stored in south Napa.’
Newton Vineyard general manager JeanBaptiste Rivail said damage was still being assessed, but Moët Hennessy ‘intends to do whatever it takes to rebuild this truly special place’. At Burgess Cellars, McCoy Jr said: ‘We look forward to many more great vintages once we can rebuild the winery.’
Meadowood founder and managing partner Bill Harlan said Napa Valley’s community spirit had ‘confronted and overcome many adversities over the years’, adding: ‘Together with our friends and neighbours we will recover, rebuilding upon the traditions of the past to ensure an even brighter future.’
What now for the 2020 vintage?
Beyond the Glass Fire damage, earlier fires in August had already given rise to smoke taint concerns in parts of Napa and Sonoma Counties, but producers said it was too soon to judge.
Napa Valley Vintners’ CEO Linda Reiff said: ‘As of today, 80% of our winery members are moving forward with their 2020 vintage. It’s too soon to speculate on volume, yet we can say it will be smaller than usual. She added: ‘Only wine worthy of having Napa Valley on the label will make it into the bottle.’
Some wineries reported good fruit quality. At Spottswoode, Novak Milliken said the team remained vigilant but was ‘optimistic that we will produce both Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon from 2020’. Donations can be made via the Napa Valley Community Disaster Relief Fund at www.napavalleycf.org.