Casa Castillo

JUMILLA

You feel the elevation at Casa Castillo, sitting at about 750m, isolated in a fairly barren landscape with the occasional castle in the distance. Yet the unpromising gravelly, limestone terrain produces exceptional Monastrell, plus Garnacha and a little Syrah.

Casa Castillo is particularly famous for its Pie Franco wine, grown on south-facing slopes, planted in 1942. This Monastrell is on its own rootstock, for the sandy soil has more or less protected the vines against phylloxera. José María Vicente’s grandfather purchased the property in 1941, 405ha in total, of which 170ha are under vine. The vineyard is surrounded by almond and olive trees, in addition to the typical Mediterranean pines and bushes. The estate had a winery which was built in 1870 by French refugees fleeing the phylloxera that was plaguing their vineyards (see ‘Rootstocks’, p80).

Vicente started working with his father in 1985, and they finally released their first vintage in 1991. Since then, he has worked with a clarity of purpose with bush vines, fermentation in stone tanks, and ageing in large casks and foudres. There’s a lot of talk about terroir wines: these are the best in Jumilla, and among the stars of Spain. Says winemaker Javi Revert (see p28): ‘There’s a constant debate about how to balance a wine so that it can age well for 10 years. Casa Castillo and Ponce (see p32) worked out how to do it from the beginning.’

Casa Castillo, Pie Franco, Jumilla 2018 97

£79 Berry Bros & Rudd, Indigo Wine

It’s often the case that a grape variety improves with a blending partner. At Casa Castillo, there is absolutely no need. José María Vicente’s years paying such close attention to his vineyards produces exceptional wines. He expresses the very best of Monastrell, and no better than with his vines that have so far resisted phylloxera. Fermented in stone lagars, and aged in 500L foudres, the wine is dark, with notes of black olives, wild thyme and black fruits. Organic. Drink 2022-2031 Alc 15%