My perfect day in Mallorca
MORNING
After breakfast at Mercat de l’Olivar (see p101) in Palma, head to Bodega Biniagual (www.finca-biniagual.com), just 40 minutes away in the charming hamlet of the same name, with its 14 houses, chapel and historic winery. The Graf family bought the 170ha property in 1968 and began planting grapes, including native Manto Negro and Prensal, in 1998. Although not officially certified, they practise low intervention and control pests by interplanting. Visits and tastings are available by appointment but you can drop into the Vinoteca (which also serves
lunch) anytime to enjoy a glass of wine. The shop also sells the estate’s own olive oil and marmalade.
LUNCH & AFTERNOON
Head north to Inca (visit the market if it’s a Thursday, see p101) and then continue on towards the impossibly pretty town of Selva for lunch at Restaurante Miceli (www.miceli.es). Enjoy splendid views from the terrace of this 19th- century Mallorcan house where chef Marga Coll was born and raised. If there’s time, stop in at the Lluc Sanctuary (www.lluc.net) on the way to Vinyes Mortitx (www. vinyesmortitx.com). Founded in 2001, the 17ha of vineyards on the slopes of the Tramuntana are the highest in Mallorca at 400m, and catch the strong northerly embat sea breezes. The winery lies below in the valley. Winemaker Llorenç Coll oversees the production of a selection of Vi de la Terra Mallorca wines, including native and international grape blends and a sweet, Moscatel- Riesling ice wine. Tours are available in English, and include a glass-in-hand walk around the bodega and vineyard as well as tastings.
EVENING
Arrive in Pollença in the late afternoon and get settled into decadent five-star comfort at Son Brull (www. sonbrull. com), a boutique hotel in a former
18th- century monastery, nestled in the foothills of the Tramuntana. While it’s tempting to stay in and dine at the excellent restaurant, soak up the local atmosphere instead by going for an evening stroll and enjoying delicious traditional tapas and excellent local wines at La Fonda (see Facebook), for a perfect ending to the day.
brothers Matías, Miquel and Sebastián Batle Pastor, having sold the family-run Bodegas Macià Batle in 2003, combined their talents to create a new project that reflected their love and respect for the land where they grew up. Here tradition meets evolution, with 55ha of old and new vines, along with modern technology, producing quality Vi de la Terra Mallorca wines that express the essence of terroir and respect age-old harvesting methods. Native grapes include Callet, Manto Negro and Prensal. Tours are available by appointment and include a tasting of four or five wines with snacks.
Finally, during your stay on Mallorca, keep an eye out for wines from two more standout bodegas that are working wonders with indigenous Callet and Manto Negro old vines. At Anima Negra (www.annegra.com) philosopher-winemakers Pere Obrador and Miquel Angel Cedà are creating expressive Callet whites, designated as Vi de la Terra Mallorca, from their small bodega in Felanitx. Meanwhile, young fifth-generation oenologist Tomeu Llabrés (pictured above) at Ca’n Verdura (www.vinscanverdura.com) near Binissalem works his magic with Manto Negro grapes from vines recovered from his grandfather’s estate, producing both DO Binissalem and
Vi de la Terra Mallorca wines. Although these humble winery installations preclude visits, you can find both producers’ wines at select shops and restaurants throughout the island, and private delivery can also be arranged via their websites. Worth seeking out.