Burgundian delights: Apstein’s pick of the Domaine du Cellier aux Moines vintages

Cellier aux Moines, Givry 1er Cru Clos du Cellier aux Moines 2017 96

£ 39.17-£42.75 Haynes Hanson & Clark, Millésima In Burgundy’s Janus-like 2017 vintage, this wine has the requisite substance, structure and balance for the long haul. This was the first year the domaine was almost fully biodynamic, and that perhaps explains the wine’s brilliance. Immediately expressive, this grabs your attention. Aromas leap from the glass. On the palate, it combines firm mineral qualities with a Bing cherry-like fruitiness in a suave and elegant package. Fractionally less ripe compared to the 2015, its minerality shines. A hint of bitterness on the finish adds to its appeal. Supple yet firm tannins provide perfect support. Drink 20262030 Alcohol 13.5%

Cellier aux Moines, Givry 1er Cru Clos du Cellier aux Moines 2015 96

N/A UK www.cellierauxmoines.com

The grandeur of the 2015 comes from a combination of a new winery, a new winemaker and the introduction of a second wine, all in that year. With succulent, dark cherry-like fruit, this is concentrated, yet not over-the-top. Great acidity keeps it fresh and amplifies its charms. It’s paradoxically both suave and firm, and supported by fine-grained tannins, combining the power of 2009 with the sleekness of 2010. Drink 2025-2030 Alc 13%

Cellier aux Moines, Givry 1er Cru Clos du Cellier aux Moines 2010 95

N/A UK www.cellierauxmoines.com

The 2010 is positively gorgeous. Less dense than the 2009, it nevertheless displays excellent concentration and an invigorating tension, delivering a balanced mixture of cherry-like fruitiness and minerals. A streak of crystalline purity holds it all together. Though it has a lovely austerity compared to the 2009, it is by no means an austere wine. Fresh and energetic, it dances on the palate. For me, it’s classic Burgundy, delivering what I call flavour without weight. Drink 2023-2027 Alc 13%

Cellier aux Moines, Givry 1er Cru Clos du Cellier aux Moines 2019 93

£ 31 (ib) Millésima

It can be difficult to predict how a completed wine will eventually compare to a barrel sample. But this unsulphured, unfiltered barrel sample showed great potential when tasted in September 2020. Less ripe than the 2018, it already hinted at the tantalising combination of savoury minerality and cherry-like flavours. Its glossy texture came as no surprise, with bright acidity enlivening the palate. I can’t wait to taste it after bottling. Drink 2027-2033 Alc 13%

Cellier aux Moines, Givry 1er Cru Clos du Cellier aux Moines 2018 92

£ 38.33-£43.90 Haynes Hanson & Clark, Millésima

Unsurprisingly, given the warmth of the vintage, the 2018 leads with a pristine and dark cherry-like power that overshadows the mineral aspect hiding underneath. Though lacking the tensile nature of the 2017, it displays uplifting acidity, especially on the finish, that offsets the ripeness. Appropriately reticent given its youthfulness, it blossoms when given some air. The cashmere-like texture and harmony already on display at this stage suggests it will develop well. It’s scheduled for release in the autumn of 2021. Drink 2025-2030 Alc 14%