Château La Grace Dieu Des Prieurs
Perfecting the art of fine wine ageing
Standing proudly just outside the centre of Saint-Emilion lies a circular vinification cellar beautifully adorned by a fresco of harvest photos. Around it is a meticulously cultivated eight-hectares of vines that have been revitalised over the past eight years since the historic 12th century estate was purchased by Russian philanthropist and Art Russe Foundation founder Andrei Filatov in 2013.
A new team was quickly installed with renowned winemaking and vineyard consultant Louis Mitjavile. Yields were immediately reduced, the pruning system changed from Guyot to Double Cordon and a weather station and numerous heating devices were installed to better react to changing conditions.
Harvests are completed by welltrained pickers where the grapes - 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc are first sorted on the vine and picked only when fully mature. Louis Mitjavile explains: ‘Because we harvest at a slightly over maturated stage, the grapes are often fragile so it’s important we destem and place them quickly into the vats using gravity flow without too many manipulations. This protects them from oxidation and preserves the maximum amount of freshness’.
For the red wines, a slow maceration and fermentation inoculated with wild yeasts is favoured, after which the 20 month ageing process or élevage begins maintained by strict temperature and humidity conditions. Mitjavile says; ‘Every variety is vinified separately, but we blend them before malolactic fermentation and ageing – for the best precision’.
This crucial process is controlled by the use of a single type of oak cask from the Radoux cooperage - Radoux Super Fine Blend, all of which are renewed every harvest.
Wood with extra fine grains is preferred and a specific ‘house style’ level of toasting was chosen after several taste tests. The barrels enhance the character of the wine on the palate, giving it structure but not aromatic markers, letting the terroir and the maturity of the vintage shine through.
The first vintage, 2014 is light and juicy with a lovely red-fruit succulence on the palate alongside spiced edges and a long finish. Approachable and perfect to drink now. The 2015, in comparison, is richer and more intense. It keeps the same concentration but has dark fruit flavours at the fore and a savoury edge with supportive tannins. 2016 is vibrant and seductive, crunchy on the palate with a gourmande feel. A serious but still fresh and well-balanced wine that stands out for ageing potential. With no 2017 due to frost, the younger 2018 and 2019 vintages still need some time, the former being smooth and welcoming with floral aromatics and a juicy, fruit energy on the palate while the latter has a tighter structure, grippy tannins and restrained power.
Similar vinification methods and protocols are used for the estate’s new white wine, cuvée Elena, which is produced from one hectare of Chardonnay and only available in magnum. It is vinified in new oak Radoux barrels and aged for 12 months. The 2019 vintage is aromatic and lively, crisp and round on the palate with complexity and persistence giving soft floral aromas on the nose and honeyed citrus, pear, apricot and soft spices on the palate. A remarkable white in a region dominated by red wines.
The attention to detail continues in the presentation of the wines from using original green glass, squatter Bordeaux bottle shapes featuring a series of Russian paintings on bottle labels.
Twelve artworks are selected each year from the collection of the Russian Art Foundation plus another reserved for magnums. Cuvée Elena is presented in a custom white glass magnum which features the name embossed in relief above a hand-painted floral motif.
Every aspect reaffirms the commitment to progressing the estate’s philosophy of tradition and modernity in crafting exceptional wines with personality and character.
Right: fermentation tanks in the circular hall at Château Bellefont-Belcier
limestone configuration and hence decide on picking dates and work practices, he first instituted a study of the soils. Thereafter, there have been changes in the cellar: the period of maceration is now longer but the method of extraction less robust, the press wine is no longer used in the grand vin, and oak foudres have been introduced for ageing a percentage of the wine. ‘It’s a double challenge as the wines from the eastern side of St-Emilion generally have a reputation for being less refined,’ he adds.
Clearly, recent vintages such as 2018 and 2019 with their fruit and freshness have contributed to the new tendency. Limestone soils and Cabernet Franc (and occasionally Cabernet Sauvignon) in the blend with Merlot will also have an impact. But a gentler hand is definitely being exerted and the extremes of the 1990s and 2000s swept away.
It’s good news for those who enjoy a refreshing libation, but as Suire comments, practices shouldn’t swing from one extreme to another. Green, after all, is still a no-go. D