Central Otago Pinot Noir
Bob Campbell MW
TWine educator, writer & DWWA Regional Chair for New Zealand he world’s most southerly wine region, Central Otago covers a large area of diverse soils from broken schist and clays to heavy silt loams, gravels and light sands. Overlay that with a wide range of climatic conditions and it is easy to understand why Central Otago produces such a diverse range of Pinot Noir styles.
The distinguishing features that make many Central Otago Pinot Noirs stand out from other regional styles are impressive fruit density and a silken texture. Some also boast a Central Otago signature of wild thyme – the herb was planted in the 1850s by gold miners and now covers the hills.
If you want to turn up the volume on fruit flavour, choose wines from the ‘three Bs’: Bannockburn, Bendigo and Cromwell Basin. If you prefer more vibrant and often edgier, highenergy wines, then try Pinot Noir from the cooler sub-regions of Wanaka, Gibbston or Alexandra.
Vintage makes a difference. 2017 saw a small harvest producing top wines. 2018 was the hottest vintage on record, producing many good wines. In contrast, 2019 was a wet vintage, with a good result. In 2020, expect ripe, concentrated wines with good acidities.
Price is a useful, though not infallible guide. More commercial, and cheaper, wines are likely to be a blend of vineyards, shipped in bulk to Europe and bottled. Handmade wines are often from a single organic
vineyard, pruned and planted with quality in mind. You can taste the difference.The better, more expensive wines tend to be more ageworthy. D
GOOD
16 Akarua, Rua Pinot Noir 2019 90 £ 17.95-£ 21.95 Eton Vintners, Exel, Helmsley Wines, Liberty Wines, Specialist Cellars, The Fine Wine Co, Vinvm, Wine Direct
From Akarua’s vineyards in Bannockburn and nearby Cromwell Basin, it’s an honest expression of the locality, and reflects Akarua’s ‘ fruit bomb’ house style both texturally (silken) and in flavour profile. Light, fresh, supple, appealing Pinot Noir with dark cherry, red-fleshed plum, raspberry and delicate spices. Deliciously accessible, charming, and offers great value. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 14%
BETTER
17 Burn Cottage, Pinot Noir 2018 94 £ 31.67 (ib)-£ 55 Farr Vintners, Hedonism, Liberty Wines, Specialist Cellars, Vinvm,
Wine Direct
From a 24ha estate in the Pisa Range district of the Cromwell Basin. The vineyard has been managed using organic/biodynamic techniques since it was established in 2002 and was the first in Central Otago to embrace a biodynamic philosophy. This wine reflects the complexity I have come to expect from this site and vineyard management. It also reflects a unique vintage, unusually hot, producing a spicier and less opulent Pinot Noir than usual, with savoury/dried herb,
Above: Felton Road’s vineyards in Bannockburn, Central Otago, NZ raspberry, red cherry, violet and plum flavours supported by fine, drying tannins. Needs bottle age. Drink 2021-2026 Alc 14%
BEST
18 Felton Road, Block 5 Pinot Noir
2017 100
£65.83 (ib) IG Wines
Grown under an organic/biodynamic and non-interventionist regime, this wine perfectly captures the unique character of an extraordinary vineyard. It boasts great purity and power with layer upon layer of subtle flavours that include violets, red rose petal, dark cherry and mixed spices – a kaleidoscope of ever-changing characters most keenly displayed on the finish. It is delicate, fragrant and has enormous length. Wonderful now, I look forward to charting its progress with bottle age. Drink 2021-2027 Alc 13.5%