My perfect day in Châteauneuf-du-Pape
MORNING
It’s always nice to wake up among the vines, so I might choose to stay at Maria-Andréas (www.c9dp.com) or Domaine Saint- Préfert (www.st-prefert.com) instead of in the village itself. Morning is the freshest time for a walk in the vineyards – perhaps around lieu- dit La Crau or Le Rayas. Then it’s time to visit some wineries. On the way, I’ll pop in to Vinadéa (www.vinadea.com), the bottle shop managed by the growers’ syndicat, to sniff out some smaller domaines.
LUNCH & AFTERNOON
My favourite place to eat is La Table des Vignerons (www.latabledesvignerons.fr), a yearly pop-up summertime restaurant in the grounds of Domaine Durieu. They have excellent aged steaks, a refreshingly wide-ranging wine list and views over the western part of the appellation. After eating, a pilgrimage up to the château helps to work off lunch, followed by a swim and a snooze.
In the afternoon, I might try out one of the new, self- guided walking routes through the vineyards that have recently been signposted by the Châteauneufdu- Pape Tourist Office (www. chateauneuf- du-pape-tourisme.fr). If the sun is too fierce, I’ll pop into Avignon for some shopping instead. If you’re looking for clothes, head to Rue Joseph Vernet. For gifts, or just to wander, the pedestrianised area to the east of Rue de la République is the place to go.
EVENING
The best choice for dinner in Châteauneuf is the elegant Table de Sorgues (www. latabledesorgues.fr), a 10-minute drive away. It’s been a while since Châteauneuf has enjoyed anywhere as good, but I’ll be checking out the newly refurbished La Mère Germaine as soon as it reopens.