Soave: my top 20
Time to revisit this Veneto classic, says Richard Baudains
To ‘know your label’ has never been sounder advice than it is in the case of Soave. This northern Italian classic white has many facets, and the best guide is the system of denominations which distinguishes styles and places of origin.
The first distinction to make is between DOC and DOCG versions of Verona’s native white.
The DOC is certainly the most familiar. Typically (but not necessarily) unoaked, this is where you find the canonical citrus and almond character in a light, dry, zingy wine which flows over the palate with seductive moreishness. It’s a style that fell a little out of favour in the past, perceived as overly simple, but it is currently reasserting itself with a new generation of winemakers. DOC Soave can’t be beaten for pure pleasure, and its apparent simplicity can be deceptive: a bottle forgotten at the back of the cellar for a few years can reveal intriguing complexity of aroma and a perfectly intact palate.
The DOCG is reserved for the Superiore category. In this case, production terms impose lower yields, resulting in wines of increased concentration and higher alcohols. Generally (but not always) oaked and aged for longer, this is Soave with greater richness of texture and a complexity that may come from later-harvested grapes. Think more tropical fruit than citrus.
ORIGIN MATTERS
The other important variable is zone of origin. Soave Classico is from the historic production area in the hills behind the towns of Monteforte d’Alpone and Soave; the zone’s borders were first delimited in 1931. Soave tout court comes from larger and predominantly flat areas to the east and the west of the central hills. A third denomination, Soave di Colli Scaligeri, less frequently seen but decidedly worthy of note, relates to hills detached from the Classico area.
The common perception is that the best wines come from the Classico DOC, but this is a generalisation that does not necessarily reflect the reality of Soave’s patchwork of terroirs.
The most recent refinement to the labelling system attempts to make sense of this complexity by identifying sites with specific characteristics known as Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive across all three denominations. Officially introduced in 2019, there are 33 of these UGAs (comparable to Piedmont’s MGAs: see ‘Barolo 2013’, p74), which include recognised sub-zone denominations that were in use prior to the new legislation.
Some, such as Fittà, Foscarino and Froscà, are more familiar, while others such as Croce, Pigno and the enticingly named Paradiso are not
‘DOC Soave can’t be beaten for pure pleasure, and its apparent simplicity can be deceptive’
exactly household names, but highlight how the Garganega grape responds to climate and, above all, soils. Wines from higher, cooler sites have a crisp intensity; those from lower slopes, more roundness. Volcanic soils give wines with a whiff of smokiness and an unmistakable tangy quality; those from calcareous areas have more mouthfeel and more fruit than mineral character.
It would take a certain amount of dedication to assimilate all the information contained in the Soave regional consorzio’s excellent documentation of the UGAs, but the evidence in the glass is that they add a meaningful new dimension to the appreciation of a wine whose character is perhaps too often taken for granted.
1 Cantina Filippi, Vigne della Brà Castelcerino, Soave 2018 96
£31.50/magnum Christopher Keiller
Filippo Filippi is the doyen of artisan winemakers in Soave.
His approach to vinification may lack a little technical precision, but this is more than compensated for by the energy and complexity of his wines. This vineyard selection opens with a slightly smoky phenolic note followed by ripe red fruit and hints of white pepper. The palate is light and airy but intensely flavoured, with an intriguing note of samphire on the finish. Drink 2021-2026 Alcohol 12%
2 Gini, La Froscà, Soave Classico 2016 96
£13.50 (ib)-£22 Exel, Justerini & Brooks, Tannico, Vin Cognito,
Wine Direct
Brothers Claudio and Sandro Gini make wines of polished refinement and longevity that are rightly considered among the classics of the denomination. La Froscà is from selected plots on the hillside of Foscarino and aged partly in stainless steel, partly in used barriques. Fresh tropical fruit nose with a hint of gunflint, and on the palate the round, fleshy fruit is underpinned by succulent acidity. Drink 2021-2026 Alc 12%
3 Monte Tondo, Foscarin Slavinus, Soave Classico Superiore 2018 96
£22.50 Field & Fawcett, Sociovino
Monte Tondo makes two selections from its property at Monte Foscarino. The Superiore Slavinus is picked in two stages: first in mid-October, then at the end of November to add the richness and complexity of late-harvested fruit. Fermented in large barrels but then aged in vats, the 2018 has a lovely fresh citrus nose with a hint of saltiness, and a palate with succulent yellow fruit, dynamic progression and a long, minerally finish.
Drink 2021-2028 Alc 13.5%
4 Sandro De Bruno, Monte San Piero, Soave Superiore 2018 96
£20.50 Amathus Drinks
Single-vineyard selection from the volcanic soils of Monte Calvarina at 350m. Low yields and late ripening give an intensity that’s rounded out by fermentation and ageing in French oak. A hint of toffee apple followed by an array of citrus, white fruit and hedgerow aromas; the palate seduces with its depth of flavour and beautiful balance between the ripe fruit and minerally acidity. Drink 2021-2026 Alc 13.5%
5 Suavia, Monte Carbonare, Soave Classico 2018 96
£18.99-£21.99 All About Wine, Christopher Keiller, Great Wines Direct,
Kwoff
The Tessari sisters make wines that are the magisterial expression of the high vineyards and volcanic soils of Monte Carbonare, untrammelled by oak, malolactic fermentation or selected yeast aromas. Concentrated and initially a little closed, they need time to open, but they reward patience with sensations of rapier-like intensity. The 2018 has a delicately smoky, mineral nose and a bone-dry palate of great length and depth, with a classic almondy finish. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 12.5%
6 Dal Cero, Runcata, Soave Superiore 2018 95
N/A UK www.dalcerofamily.it
Sourced from vines up to 70 years old from high vineyards on the dark volcanic soils of Monte Calvarina, this is the top selection from Dal Cero’s wide-ranging portfolio. Refined modern vinification and ageing in 2,000L barrels produce a wine with notes of acacia and hints of spice on the nose, and a palate of bone-dry intensity with firm green apple acidity and a long, minerally finish. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 13%
7 Gianni Tessari, Perinato, Soave Classico 2018 94
£18.95 Jeroboams
Pigno is the one of the smallest of the new UGAs, located at the heart of the Classico zone, adjacent to the better known Foscarino on south/southeast-facing slopes. Winemaker Gianni Tessari brings out the tangy quality that derives from the volcanic soils with this lightly oaked selection, which has juicy tropical fruit and lemon peel on the nose, a fresh agile palate and a crisp, dry finish. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 12%
8 Inama, Du Lot, Soave Classico 2018 94
£23 Winetraders UK
Stefano Inama was one of the first to explore the use of barriques to enhance the breadth and complexity of his Soave. The single-vineyard Du Lot ferments in 30% new French oak and then ages on the lees for six months. The 2018 has a slightly grassy, iodine character on the nose and very firm structure underneath the fruit on the palate. A little austere at the moment but destined to evolve. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 13%
9 Tenuta Sant’Antonio, Vecchie Vigne, Soave 2018 93
N/A UK www.tenutasantantonio.it
Tenuta Sant’Antonio has a property planted to Garganega on the stony calcareous soils of Monte di Colognola, on the western edge of the DOC zone. Vecchie Vigne is a low-yield, barrique-aged, 5,000-bottle selection. The 2018 has attractive citrus and white blossom notes next to the oak on the nose, and a solid palate with chunky concentration and good ageing prospects. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 13.5%
10 Cantina di Soave, Rocca Sveva Castelcerino, Soave Classico 2019 92
N/A UK www.roccasveva.it
The top line of the giant Cantina di Soave cooperative. The Castelcerino selection is sourced from growers on the steep slopes in the far northwest corner of the Classico zone. The style aims for early-bottled immediacy, showcasing the typical varietal aromas of Garganega. Delicate spring blossom aromas and a mid-weight palate of citrus and almond with refreshing acidity. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 13%
11 Marco Mosconi, Paradiso, Soave 2019 92
N/A UK www.marcomosconi.it
Self-taught winemaker Mosconi runs an organic estate on the stony calcareous flat lands of the Val d’Illasi. His wines reflect the up-and-coming fresh, linear style of Soave made with free-run juice, temperature-controlled fermentation and brief lees ageing in stainless steel and cement vats. The 2019 is light and zippy, dominated by ripe fruit on the nose with a palate rounded off by a crisp, mid-length finish. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 12%
12 Nardello, Monte Zoppega, Soave Classico 2017 92
£21.50 Tannico
Zoppega is a small area north of the village of Monteforte d’Alpone, where its south-facing slopes are among the warmest in the Classico zone. Daniele Nardello’s 2017 late-picked selection from the cru impresses for its complexity on the nose, where ripe fruit is accompanied by savoury herbs and a hint of smokiness. Round and soft entry, and more fruit and herbs on the finish. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 13%
13 Roccolo Grassi, La Broia, Soave 2017 92
£18.10-£18.99 Corking Wines, Fintry Wines, Hallgarten Wines, Shelved Wine, Strictly Wine, Valvona & Crolla, Wine Direct, The Wineman, Wine Poole
Roccolo Grassi is the long-standing producer of Soave from a 1ha vineyard in the minuscule cru of Broia, found in the cooler, extreme northwest corner of the DOC. It produces this fresh, vibrant, lightly oaked wine that has a biscuity sur-lie character on the nose and a classic almond and citrus palate. Drink 2021-2026 Alc 12.5%
14 Vicentini Agostino, Il Casale, Soave Superiore 2017 92
£17.95-£19.20 Bat and Bottle, Philglas & Swiggot, Tannico
Admirably consistent in quality and style, Il Casale is a singlevineyard selection from a UGA – Monte di Colognola – to the west of the Classico zone with mixed calcareous and volcanic soils. Reduced yields and 12 months on the lees give the wine breadth, substance and potential for evolution. The nose of the 2017 has the ripe peach and apricot of the warm vintage, leading to a round palate with a soft, almondy finish.
Drink 2021-2027 Alc 13% ▶
15 Canoso, Verso, Soave Classico Superiore 2017 90
£17.62 London Wine Deliveries
Cà del Vento is the smallest of the new UGAs, a tiny enclave of dark volcanic soils in the extreme southeast corner of the Classico zone. At Canoso, the terraces are planted to Garganega, Trebbiano and Manzoni Bianco, all of which are included in this, the estate’s top selection. The nose has tropical fruits with background hints of smokiness, while the palate has firm acidity and a savoury-mineral finish. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 12.5%
16 Corte Adami, Vigna della Corte, Soave Superiore 2018 90
N/A UK www.corteadami.it
Castelcerino spreads across the predominantly volcanic Classico and the calcareous Colli Scaligeri zones. Corte Adami sources its Garganega from high slopes with mixed soils, picked in late October and vinified in a style that aims to express the tangy intensity of the terroir. The nose of the 2018 is a little understated but the palate is bone-dry and vibrant, with white currants and lemon peel leading to a long, crisp and satisfying finish. Drink 2021-2026 Alc 13.5%
17 Fattori, Motto Piane, Soave 2018 90
£17.85 (2017) Sommelier’s Choice
From the Roncà-Monte Calvarina UGA, the Fattori family’s top cuvée is enriched by the addition of a separately vinified wine made from partially dried grapes. The nose has expressive, ripe tropical fruit and citrus aromas, and the palate is round and fleshy with good concentration and depth, ending with an agile, fruit-driven finish. Drink 2021-2026 Alc 14%
18 Franchetto, La Capelina, Soave 2019 90
£15 Wine & Something
Franchetto aims for a direct, unoaked interpretation of the terroir of Monte Calvarina with its red volcanic soils and high, late-ripening slopes. La Capelina is 100% Garganega, softpressed, cold-fermented and bottled early to maintain varietal freshness. Delicate but nicely defined white fruit and elderflower aromas; lightweight but flavoursome palate that entices with its zingy citrus intensity and long, crisp finish. Perfect summer drinking. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 12.5%
19 Guerrieri Rizzardi, Costeggiola, Soave Classico 2019 90
£14.75-£15.75 Fullaloves Wines, Shekleton Wines, The Whalley Wine Shop, Wines with Attitude
From 60-year-old pergola-trained vines on south-facing terraces on one of the few calcareous hills of the Classico zone, this unoaked cuvée of 75% Garganega and 25% Chardonnay combines freshness and structure in a wine with yellow apple on the nose, and bright acidity and good length on the palate. Drink 2021-2026 Alc 13%
20 Tenuta Solar, Le Caselle, Soave Classico 2018 90
N/A UK www.tenutasolar.com
This small winery is run by young owner-winemaker Egidio Bolla. Active on social media but off the official radar, it is a property to look out for. Le Caselle is a textbook example of Soave Classico, with all the elegance and finesse of Foscarino. The nose is delicately floral, with hints of saffron in the background, while the palate is long and citrussy and the finish tangy and mineral. Drink 2021-2026 Alc 14% D
‘The Superiore wines generally have a greater complexity and richness of texture. Think more tropical fruit than citrus’