Gin: local character and f lavour around the world
Gin is not just British; it’s made all around the globe, from Australia to India to Venezuela. Here’s a selection with a distinctive local character
While certain spirits embody their country of origin and can only be produced there – think tequila in Mexico – others can be made anywhere in the world. Of those, and perhaps more than any other nomad spirit, gin can capture the flavours of the place where it is made, through the use of distinctive local botanicals in its production.
‘Gin has the opportunity to say so much about locality in flavour terms,’ says Guy Hodcroft, buyer at Master of Malt. ‘By using distillate derived locally, from a particular place and in a particular style associated with that place, and infusing it with botanicals that could be exclusively of that same place, the fingerprinting of a spirit to a specific locality has huge potential.’ ‘Gins from different parts of the world tend to give us new botanicals and flavour combinations,’ adds Dawn Davis, head buyer at The Whisky Exchange. ‘By exploring world gins, especially those from the more exotic realms, we open ourselves up to new taste sensations from local botanicals.’
These might range from Amazonian açaí berries to tiny Sakurajima komikan satsumas in Japan. ‘Every botanical tells a story, and where it comes from will have an enormous impact on flavour,’ explains Michael Vachon, co-founder of Maverick Drinks. ‘Juniper from the Himalayas will lend a very different character than European juniper, for example.’
FEELGOOD FACTOR
Juniperus Procera, found at 1,500m in the highlands of Kenya, is the only species of juniper native to the southern hemisphere and it’s used alongside 10 African botanicals at Kenya’s first craft distillery, Procera. ‘We wanted to make gin that tastes like Africa feels,’ explains founder Guy Brennan. To achieve that, master distiller Roger Jorgensen uses fresh (rather than dried) juniper berries.
‘Making gin with fresh juniper is life altering,’ he declares. ‘Green juniper makes gin that’s true to the terroir – it’s alive,’ adds Brennan. The distillery partners with the Kijabe Forest Trust to protect the native procera forests. The trust, in turn, works with local communities to harvest the berries.
The gin is bottled in local hand-blown Kitengela Hot Glass bottles.
Making use of local resources, with an eye to environmental and social projects, is a signature of several of the world gins in my selection. Venezuelan producer Ron Diplomático, for example, donates 10% of the profits from its Canaïma gin to support reforestation with Saving The Amazon and create sustainable local jobs with Fundación Tierra Viva.
At India’s Third Eye Distillery in Goa, after peeling lemons, limes and oranges, the unused citrus is returned to local suppliers to be made into pickles or cordials. So buying these gins can become a way of contributing to a larger global community.
EXCITING TIMES
So, which countries are leading the way with international gins? The US made an early start, its craft gin scene kicking off in the late 1990s. Today, there are numerous brands that tap into the country’s historical roots and the unique personality of cities such as New York.
‘With such a rich distilling tradition, it’s Japanese gin that excites me both in terms of packaging and quality,’ says Hodcroft. ‘But I also think India – and, to a lesser extent, China – with its large distilling capacity and so many cultural ties to botanicals for traditional medicinal purposes, is well positioned to surprise and delight with new gins.’
‘Australia is using native botanicals in an exciting way,’ adds Vachon. ‘But watch out for some newcomers who bring something truly exotic to the category with gins from the Philippines or Colombia. Many have honed their distilling skills with master distillers from the more established gin markets to create something really special that could only come from that place.’
At a time when global travel is restricted, the world gin category offers a taste of far-flung destinations. ‘There are a huge number of excellent classic London Dry Gins made in the UK. So if you’re going to choose an international gin, it needs to bring something that you can’t already find in domestic brands,’ explains Charlie Pountney of importer bbb drinks. ‘A good world gin should capture the essence and provenance of the area from which it originates. A standout example should transport you to the location where it is made, evoking the local flavours.’
‘The fingerprinting of a spirit to a specific locality has huge potential’ --------------------------- Guy Hodcroft, Master of Malt