High praise: Aldo Fiordelli’s 12 from Italy’s elevated vines

1 Tiefenbrunner, Rachtl Riserva, Alto Adige 2017 94

N/A UK www.tiefenbrunner.com

This Sauvignon Blanc matches the steeliness of its structure with concentration of fruit and extraordinary depth. Grown on a mix of chalk sandstone and the local porphyry at 580m-650m at Aica di Sotto. Pale greenish in the glass, it emerges with smoky tones accompanied by floral, citrus and light herbal touches. It shows a lot of layers in a tight-knit structure, with zesty acidity well integrated with gooseberry fruit and toasty finish.

Drink 2021-2030 Alcohol 13.5%

2 Anselmet, Mains et Coeur, Valle d’Aosta 2018 93

N/A UK www.maisonanselmet.it Maison Anselmet’s vineyards of Chardonnay are at 800m, planted in 1989. Fermented in oak, the wine is aged for 18 months in small barrels. A restrained, focused nose of pink grapefruit and buttery notes, with flowery hints and stony minerality, is held together by zesty acidity, tightly wound with fruit concentration and a toasty finish. A Chassagne-like Chardonnay full of tension and complexity. Drink 2021-2026 Alc 13.5%

Terenzuola, Fosso di Corsano, Colli di Luni, Tuscany/Liguria 2019 91

£22.75 Tannico

The Apuan Alps, famed for their marble, are home to steep vineyards on chalk overlooking the sea. Among a lot of commercial, perfumed wines there are some high-quality Vermentinos from the Colli di Luni denomination. Following a stripe of limestone at 600m, near the village of Fosdinovo, Fosso di Corsano is a crisp organic wine full of orange blossom, sage and grapefruit aromatics. It’s full and textured, with an amazing salty finish, becoming chalky with age.

Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13.5%

3 Frank Cornelissen, Magma, Sicily 2017 96

£200 Low Intervention, The Salusbury Winestore Magma is an organic, 100% Nerello Mascalese wine from old vines planted at 600m-1,000m on the northern flank of Mt Etna. A bright ruby colour, it has an intoxicating nose, with initially restrained rhubarb and vermouth-like notes, then revealing black cherry fruit, peony, cinnamon and a hint of peat. The firm palate has typical depth, with black pepper complementing the aromas. It is concentrated on the mid-palate, with crisp acidity that balances the alcohol.

Drink 2022-2037 Alc 15%

4 ArPePe, Rocce Rosse Sassella, Valtellina Superiore, Lombardy 2013

95

£63 Berry Bros & Rudd

An extremely complex Chiavennasca (Nebbiolo), with the concentration of a leaner vintage. Slightly garnet around the bright ruby core, it displays scents of violet, wild strawberry, smoky woodland and liquorice root, with a minty intensity in depth. On the palate, one can feel the backbone of acidity first, then a fairly green flavour. It shines for its silky tannins and elegance, with raspberry and cherry fruits accompanied by hazelnut and prunes leading to an oxidative finish. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 13%

Tinessa, Ognostro Rosso, Campania 2018 94

£46 Gnarly Vines

Marco Tinessa, who produces the Aglianico-based Ognostro in Irpinia, admits the 2018 vintage was quite rainy and cool. His vineyards reach 660m altitude in Vallicelli, however this harvest benefited from lower vineyards at between 450m-550m. Leafy cassis and earthy clay minerality on the nose, with leather and thyme in depth. Thick and muscular yet crunchy, it has firm acidity and a dark chocolate finish. A postmodern style – full and powerful, precise yet focused. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 14.5%

Kaltern, Project XXX Unoaked, Alto Adige 2019 90

NA/UK www.kellereikaltern.com

A new generation of producers and winemakers in the Alto Adige region is experimenting with projects such as Project XXX, a new line from Kellerei Kaltern managed by talented winemaker Andrea Moser. This Pinot Noir comes from some of the highest vineyards of the estate, at 650m. Extremely precise, its restrained nose focuses on violet, peony, rose and red fruit, followed by a strawberry and cherry palate with floral touches. Long and savoury, with firm yet ripe tannins. Drink 2021-2031 Alc 14%

5 Lamole di Lamole, Vigneto di Campolungo, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, Tuscany 2015 90

£39.56 Alivini

Lamole is one of the highest villages of the Chianti region, home to a widely planted clone of Sangiovese. Vigneto Campolungo lies above 500m, even though the optimum altitude of this grape was previously considered to be 400m. Here, the typical floral touch of Lamole is intoxicating: violet and orris dominate rich, savoury black cherry aromas and flavours. Dense and chalky, it has firm, forward acidity and a beautiful long, savoury finish of liquorice. Drink 2021-2035 Alc 13.5%

Tenuta Tascante, Contrada Sciaranuova VV Rosso, Etna, Sicily 2017 90

£89.60-£94.99 (2016) All About Wine, Vinvm In the warm and dry 2017 vintage, the old vines of Contrada Sciaranuova were essential to produce this concentrated and elegant Nerello Mascalese, picked in the second half of October. The average altitude here, between Montelaguardia and Passopisciaro, is about 730m. Very pale ruby in the glass, the wine is restrained yet focused, with graphite minerality joined by a sweet peach-skin aroma and cherry and orange flavours. Concentrated, velvety and elegant, with almost zesty acidity and a toasty finish.

Drink 2021-2035 Alc 14%

Giuseppe Sedilesu, Mamuthone, Cannonau di Sardegna, Sardinia 2019 91

£21.99 Les Caves de Pyrene

This wine takes its name from the ancient carnival of the Mamuthones. The winery and vineyards are in Mamoiada, on the flank of the Gennargentu chain of mountains, where the combination of altitude, old bush vines and sandy soil makes the Cannonau (Grenache) grapes extremely concentrated. Raspberrycoloured, it is reductive at first but then reveals white pepper supported by bright raspberry fruit. The juicy, precise palate is full-bodied, with an amazing ripeness to the tannins and a refreshing finish.

Drink 2021-2031 Alc 15%

Cantina Produttori Nebbiolo di Carema, Riserva, Carema, Piedmont 2017 90

£20.83 (ib)-£32 (2016) Albany Vintners, Berry Bros Exchange, Bordeaux Vintners, Butlers Wine Cellar, Cru, Lay & Wheeler, Seckford Wines, The Solent Cellar

Carema is a fairly small appellation located north of Turin city, producing Nebbiolo at altitude. The valley basin suffered from drought in 2017, however the vineyards are located on terraces at about 750m, and their proximity to the mountains guarantees a good amount of rainfall almost every year. This has a lovely nose, full of violet and iris, intense redcurrants and a deep, slightly stony minerality. The tannins are a little chalky and the acidity is firm. This is a wine that’s more on the bones than on the meat, yet it’s balanced and elegant overall. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 13.5%

La Crotta di Vegneron, Chambave Valle d’Aosta 2019 89

£17 Tannico

Chambave is a little-known sub-zone in the Valle d’Aosta. This red wine is based on Petit Rouge, interpreted by one of the few wineries producing it, completed by Pinot Noir and Gamay together with other indigenous varieties. The vineyards are planted on very steep slopes with a southeast exposure in the villages of Chambave, Verrayes, St-Denis and Chatillon, at an altitude of 500m-550m. The wine is perfumed, light and easy to drink, scented with violets, and has a vinous character with lush strawberry flavours on a supple palate, along with silky tannins and amazing acidity.

Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13.5% D