Michaela Morris selects 10 top Piedmont Barbera reds

1 Olim Bauda, Riserva, Nizza 2016 95

£29.99-£36.95 Alliance Wine, DBM Wines

After working with barriques for a number of years, the Bertolini brothers switched to 25hl casks of French Allier oak in order to achieve a more elegant expression of Barbera. From the northern sector of Nizza, this has seductive aromas of raspberry, cherry and cocoa laced with coffee wafting faintly through the background. The fruit is plush, taking on an exotic sweet savouriness, and the tannins are graceful. Tangy, zesty acidity cleanses the palate and stimulates the appetite. Very long. Drink 2021-2028 Alcohol 15%

Accornero, Bricco Battista, 2 Barbera del Monferrato Superiore 2016 93

£32.70 Tannico

The Accornero family are fourthgeneration winemakers and own 20ha in Vignale Monferrato. Bricco Battista is a selection of three southeast-facing parcels planted in 1970 with average yields at a low 35hl/ha. Intriguingly nuanced, this is earthy rather than fruity, with evocative forest floor, liquorice root and spice overlaying woodland berries. Compact on the palate, with smooth tannins and tangy, mouthwatering acidity, this lingers with an appetising mineral savouriness. It’s aged in a combination of new and used tonneaux.

Drink 2021-2027 Alc 14.5%

Bruno Rocca, Barbera d’Asti 2018 92

£27.99 Fortnum & Mason, The Grape Escape, Wine Direct

Though not labelled as such, this hails from a site within Nizza boasting sandy soil with reddish marl and marine fossils. The dark purple hue reveals the wine’s youth while gorgeous fresh aromas of cherry, raspberry and plum are uncluttered by new oak. With sappy acidity and fine texture, it is succulent and light on its feet – a joyful Barbera!

Drink 2021-2024 Alc 14.5%

Vietti, Vigna Scarrone, 3 Barbera d’Alba 2017 92

£30-£34.50 (ib) Brunswick, Crump Richmond Shaw

This bottling from Barolo’s Scarrone cru comes from 30-year-old plantings. Garden herbs, liquorice, lavender and clove infuse plum and black cherry. It’s creamy in texture with plush, polished tannins, a succulent core and an energetic finish. While this doesn’t have the intense concentration of the old-vine bottling, the sheer drinkability makes it just as appealing. Drink 2021-2026 Alc 15%

Elio Grasso, Vigna Martina, Barbera d’Alba 2017 91

£20-£20.67 (ib) Asset Wines, Clarion Wines Vigna Martina is crafted like a Barolo, with a long fermentation under a submerged cap and 18 months in wood, which is 50% new. Oak nuances are pronounced and need time to integrate, but underneath this wine possesses distinct violet and oily herb notes along with clayey tannins that speak very much of place. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 15%

Matteo Correggia, Marun, Barbera d’Alba 2016 91

£60/magnum Tannico

Previously aged exclusively in barriques, this now sees a combination of small barrels and 30hl casks. It opens with a subtle toastiness and touch of chocolate, but the oak is well integrated, allowing juicy plum and blackcurrants to shine. It’s minerally, though the core has a salty edge; round and concentrated with supple tannins. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 15%

Roberto Voerzio, Pozzo dell’Annunziata, Barbera d’Alba 2015 91

£223.33-£290 (ib)/magnum Berry Bros Exchange, Christopher Keiller, Cru, Crump Richmond Shaw, Justerini & Brooks, Starling Wines, Wineye

Voerzio’s Barbera bush vines are planted at high density and strictly cropped to give a mere half-kilo of fruit per vine. The resulting densely layered, concentrated red exudes dark cherry, blackberry, mint, tarragon, spice and measured toastiness. Lush, sweet fruit is embraced by soft tannins but gets a stealthy lift from fresh acidity. Drink 2021-2027 Alc 15.5%

Braida, Bricco dell’Uccellone, Barbera d’Asti 2016 90

£55.25 Sommelier’s Choice

Braida’s pivotal barrique-aged Barbera hails from a single vineyard owned by the estate. The 2016 vintage reveals mellowed aromas of leather, blackberry, smoke and chocolate. On the palate, the notes of coconutty oak and mint are more immediately apparent, while dry wood tannins provide some extra chew.

Drink 2021-2023 Alc 16%

Giovanni Almondo, Valbianchèra, Barbera d’Alba 2018 90

£13 (ib) Lay & Wheeler

Almondo’s Valbianchèra vineyard is particularly rich in calcareous clay and has a gentle eastern exposure. This is youthful and almost grapey from the off, revealing nuances of lilac and blackberry. Round and fluid, the palate offers crunchy fresh fruit and effortless tannins. Blood-orange notes linger on the finish.

Drink 2021-2023 Alc 14.5%

Michele Chiarlo, Le Orme, Barbera d’Asti 2018 88

£14.55-£23.36 Blanco & Gomez, Fintry Wines, Hallgarten Wines, Tannico, The Good Wine Shop

From a selection of vineyards throughout Asti, Le Orme is refined in stainless steel and ages for at least 16 months. The bright, cheerful cherry nose hints at cedar forest and allspice. It’s soft on the entry with brisk acidity giving backbone to airy fruit. Ready to drink and easy to like. Drink 2021-2022 Alc 13.5% D