Brook’s choice: 20 top Barolo 2013s to seek out
Non-Riserva top picks Casa E di Mirafiore, Lazzarito, 1 Serralunga d’Alba 95
US$122-$137.70 Solano Cellars, he Wine Connection
Elevation and limestone soils make Lazzarito one of Serralunga’s finest and most long-lived sites. Aromatic intensity and vigorous red fruit on the nose. Firm, concentrated and taut – discreet power, though the tannins are not too dominant. Tightly wound and youthful, this is harmonious and surprisingly forward but very well balanced and long, thanks to its fine acidity. Drink 2021-2035 Alcohol 14%
Borgogno, Fossati, Barolo 94
N/A UK www.borgogno.com
In 2008, this historic and ultra-traditional winery was bought by Oscar Farinetti, who also owns Fontanafredda. I often find its wines dour and overly tannic, but this Fossati, though aged for four years in casks, is splendid. The nose is delicate and floral, with raspberry and redcurrant fruit and a hint of woodsmoke. Suave and rounded, it has mouthfilling fruit an integrated tannins – enough to give some piquancy. It’s harmonious, polished and persistent. Drink 2021-2034 Alc 14% Brezza, Cannubi, Barolo 94 £64.67 (ib) Berry Bros Exchange, Hallgarten Wines The Brezza family holds 1.4ha in the prestigious Cannubi. The wines are aged in large casks and bottled unfined and unfiltered. The exquisite nose fuses red fruits, rose petals and dried herbs. Juicy and full-bodied, it has integrated tannins and good if not exceptional acidity. Rounded and harmonious, it’s beginning to evolve but remains beautifully balanced. Drink 2021-2034 Alc 14% Ceretto, Brunate, La Morra 94 2 £85.84 (ib)-£135 Asset Wines, Bordeaux Vintners, Nemo Wine Cellars
Ceretto has 130ha of vineyards, with 5.6ha in Brunate. Aged in small barrels and large casks, the nose is fragrant, with delicate aromas of raspberries and rose petals. The attack is fresh and pure, opening into a palate with immediacy and balance. It doesn’t lack tannic backbone and there’s some sucrosity on
Barolo 2013: my must-have wines
• Cavallotto, San Giuseppe Bricco Boschis Riserva 95pts
• Michele Chiarlo, Cerequio Riserva 95pts
• Mirafiore, Lazzarito 95pts
• Brezza, Cannubi 94pts
• Ceretto, Brunate 94pts
• Palladino, San Bernardo Riserva 94pts the finish, which has fine acidity and length. Drink 2021-2032 Alc 14% Boroli, Villero, Castiglione Falletto 93 £122.99 9 Elms Wines, Top Selection
Villero is a large, southwest-facing site with many proprietors. Boroli’s version is aged in partly new barriques. The nose is complex, with aromas of damp leaves, truffles, raspberries and dried herbs. It’s no blockbuster, but a graceful wine with fine tannins and sufficient acidity. Light on its feet but displaying substance and complexity, it has a long, redcurranty finish. Drink 2021-2032 Alc 13.5%
Elvio Cogno, Ravera Bricco 3 Pernice, Novello 93
US$110 ShopSK
This sheltered and treasured 2ha parcel lies within the Ravera cru on limestone soils. Though the red fruit nose is less expressive than that of the regular Ravera, the palate is rich and svelte, textured and luxurious. It’s very concentrated and quite high in alcohol, and packed with sour-cherry fruit. Not subtle, but full of energy and pungent force. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 14.5% Giulia Negri, Serradenari, 4 La Morra 93 £97.75/magnum Corney & Barrow
Unlike the Giulia Negri Tartufaia, Serradenari is a MGA cru. It lies at a lofty 520m on clay-loam soils, and the wine is aged in large casks. The opulent cherry nose is forthright and compact, the palate unusually rich and succulent, with juicy upfront fruit and supple tannins. But there’s considerable power, too, the acidity contributing to its drive, leading to a long, spry finish with a hint of mocha. Offers both structure and ageing potential. Drink 2021-2034 Alc 14%
Mauro Molino, Conca, La Morra 93
US$59 Vinopolis Oregon
This is generally Molino’s finest Barolo from La Morra. The cru, an amphitheatre of vines, produces wines that can be long-lived. Aged in barriques, intense red fruits mark the nose, along with lifted floral aromas. Admirable clarity of fruit on the palate, infused rather than extracted, with light tannin structure.
The bright finish is elegant and balanced.
Drink 2021-2032 Alc 14%
Franco Conterno, Pietrin, Barolo 92
N/A UK www.francoconterno.it
Pietrin is a blend from Novello and Castiglione Falletto as well as Monforte. Perfumed berry fruit on the nose, which seems a touch oaky even though the wine was aged in large casks rather than smaller barriques. The attack is fresh and vivid, quite concentrated and harmonious but spicy, with firm but not harsh tannins. The Nebbiolo grip is balanced by an appealing sucrosity and a svelte texture. Drink 2021-2032 Alc 13.5%
Luigi Einaudi, Cannubi, Barolo 92
US$67-$90 Bird Rock Fine Wine, Artisan Wine Depot, Primo, Wizers
Although based in Dogliani, this large estate farms more than 2ha in Cannubi, and the wine is aged for 32 months in casks. Ample fragrant red fruits are joined by hints of rose petal. Beautifully structured, it shows an excellent balance of concentrated fruit and ripe, integrated tannins. It’s still relatively youthful and should age well. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 14.5%
Stefano Farina, La Morra 91
US$46-$55 Park Place Wines & Liquors,
Solano Cellars
The Farina family, based in Diano d’Alba, are producers of wine from many Italian regions. They are not always consistent producers of Barolo, but this 2013 from La Morra is excellent. Aged mostly in
‘This tasting confirms that vintages such as 2013 can give great pleasure just a few years after release’
large casks, it shows a fleshy and juicy raspberry nose, with a floral character that gives charm and aromatic lift. Solid fruit and good concentration, the alcohol carried by the intensity of fruit. Ample energy and drive, spicy and long with a hint of oak on the finish, which is forceful and balanced. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 14.5% Riserva top picks Cavallotto, Vigna San Giuseppe 5 Riserva, Castiglione Falletto 95 £97 (ib)-£179.99 Asset Wines, Bordeaux Index, Christopher Keiller, Cru, Lay & Wheeler, Les Caves de Pyrene, The Winery, VinQuinn, Wineye
This renowned Riserva comes from the steep slopes of Bricco Boschis and, like the rest of the estate, is farmed organically. Given long ageing in large casks, the cherry-scented nose is smoky and almost earthy, but it’s vibrant and has impressive aromatic depth. Rich and suave, with power and weight – the tannins are certainly present and chewy, but it is not overly dense and has admirable freshness.
Drink 2023-2038 Alc 14.5% Michele Chiarlo, Cerequio Riserva, La Morra 95 £135 Hallgarten Wines, Millésima
The scarce Cerequio Riserva comes from a 0.9ha parcel, aged initially in tonneaux then in casks. The nose is robust with cherry and rose-petals, just a hint of boiled sweets. Bright and limpid, this has charm and elegance rather than great weight and concentration. It’s still tight thanks to good acidity, and the structure is deceptively discreet. Elegant, poised and polished. Drink 2021-2035 Alc 14% Ettore Germano, Lazzarito Riserva, Serralunga d’Alba 94 £86.75 Field & Fawcett, Sociovino
Sergio Germano’s 0.8ha plot in this outstanding cru is planted with old vines, so is always made as a Riserva, aged in large casks. The nose has always been open, and that hasn’t changed, with fragrant red fruit aromas. But the palate veers in the other direction, being compact and tannic, and displaying structure and considerable persistence. The fruit is subdued but not crushed, and the wine will certainly repay cellaring.
Drink 2023-2040 Alc 13.5% Palladino, San Bernardo Riserva, Serralunga d’Alba 94 £45.83 (ib) Asset Wines, Ultravino
Palladino owns a fine set of vineyards in Serralunga, and as the small San Bernardo cru tends to produce the most tannic wines, it is now the source of its Riserva. The nose is quite perfumed, displaying ripe red fruits. Although it is very concentrated, it’s not monolithic on the palate, with polished tannins and ▶
considerable vigour. Overall the balance seems impeccable and the length impressive. It could be approached now, but should unfurl beautifully in a few years. Drink 2022-2040 Alc 14.5%
6 Ca’ Viola, Sottocastello di Novello Riserva, Novello 93
N/A UK www.caviola.com
Consultant Beppe Caviola’s own winery is at Dogliani. This Riserva is fermented with natural yeasts and aged in large casks. The nose is opulent and forceful, with heady cherry and raspberry. Vivid yet concentrated, it has firm, ripe tannins on the mid-palate, some sucrosity too, and already shows good complexity and piquancy, with a long, swaggering finish.
Drink 2022-2036 Alc 14.5%
Cavallotto, Vignolo Riserva, Castiglione Falletto 93
£75 (ib)-£149.99 Asset Wines, Cru, Starling Wines, The Salusbury Winestore, The Winery, VinQuinn, Vinum, Wineye
Cavallotto’s ‘other’ Barolo Riserva comes from its 1.5ha on the lower slopes of Bricco Boschis, where the vines are more than 50 years old. Ageing in cask continues for 48 months, and on the nose it is lush and opulent, with aromas of cherries and raspberries. The tannins are suave and polished, although the wine as a whole is powerful and assertive. Its
energy and vigour ensure excellent length. Drink 2022-2036 Alc 14.5%
7 Costa di Bussia Tenuta Arnulfo, Bussia Riserva, Monforte d’Alba 93
£31.95-£37.99 Corking Wines, Exel, Hallgarten Wines, Strictly Wine, Wine Poole
The Arnulfo property was renamed in 1990 to reflect its historic location. From a 0.8ha parcel, the nose is lively, with raspberries and dried herbs. Very concentrated and chewy on release, it is just beginning to open up, although it will take a while longer for the robust tannins to integrate.
A traditional Riserva that should age well. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 14%
ForteMasso, Castelletto Riserva, Monforte d’Alba 93
£87 Independent Wine
The difference between the regular Castelletto and the Riserva is the grape selection, longer maceration and longer ageing in barrels. Not surprisingly, this gives more density and concentration, though cherry fruit still comes through on the nose and palate. The vigour and length here should ensure good ageing potential. Drink 2023-2038 Alc 14%
Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno, Cannubi Riserva, Barolo 93
£26 (ib)-£59 Brunswick, Cru, Crump Richmond Shaw, Seckford Wines, Starling Wines, Tanners, Wineye
Over the years this estate has made many exceptional Barolos from its stronghold in Cannubi. This Riserva is aged in casks for 52 months. Poised and fragrant on release, the nose is now more opulent, with cherry aromas. The palate is compact and powerful with considerable density, but the tannins aren’t harsh or extracted. It’s a fairly rugged style with intensity of fruit, and although it needs more time to harmonise, it has fine potential and good length. Drink 2022-2032 Alc 14% D