TREND WATCH:

MEUNIER CHAMPAGNES

Pinot Meunier accounts for one-third of the vineyard area in Champagne, yet it enjoys a far lower profile than the other Champagne varieties Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and is rarely planted outside the region. But a new generation of Champagne producers is singing the praises of Meunier – so named because the leaves of the vine appear to have been sprinkled with flour (Meunier means ‘miller’ in French). Part of its appeal became very evident this year when frost swept through Champagne on the nights of 6-7 April: Chardonnay suffered, while Meunier, which had not yet budded out, did not. The growing season is also shorter at both ends than Pinot Noir. Blanc de noirs by definition, Meunier Champagnes lack the vinous nature of many blanc de noirs; they are also easier to approach in their youth than those based on Pinot Noir or Chardonnay. While aromas tend toward ripe pear, white blossoms and camomile, the most salient character of Meunier is a soft, gentle fruitiness – no bad thing in a Champagne. For more on Meunier Champagnes, visit decanter.com/premium

Two to try

BENOIT DEHU, LA RUE DES NOYERS, CHAMPAGNE NV 94

£82 The Good Wine Shop From his 1.7ha parcel Déhu produces four separate wines of uncanny concentration and vinosity. The dense clay soils yield wines with complex aromas of pear, hazelnut and toast, with a lively firm texture on the palate, plenty of substance, and a solid finish of impressive persistence. Drink 2021-2041 Alcohol 12%

LAHERTE FRERES, LES VIGNES D’AUTREFOIS, CHAMPAGNE 2014 93

£64.99 AG Wines The oldest Meunier of the estate (planted 1947-1953) goes into Vignes d’Autrefois. Base wines are fermented in cask and malolactic fermentation is not done. The result shows ripe apricot and hazelnut with hints of smoke and toast. The texture is silky and the fruit has a lovely depth through the lingering finish. Drink 2021-2041 Alc 12%