A drink with... Marc Kent, winemaker

Marc Kent trained to be a winemaker at Elsenburg Agricultural College in South Africa’s Western Cape. He graduated in 1994, the dawn of the post-apartheid era, and joined Boekenhoutskloof in Franschhoek. Driving its transformation from neglected farm to Cape superstar, he is now managing partner and technical director at the winery. Since 2017 he has also been making wine in Portugal with Rita Marques of Conceito. They launched Companhia de Vinhos Invencível in Casais do Douro in 2020

‘South Africa has an Old Vine Project, but the Douro has much more old vine material. It’s wonderful stumbling across these utterly neglected old vineyards with tiny yields. You can make stunning wines.

‘Post-apartheid, my generation could work abroad. I missed out, but in 2017 – late in my life – I decided to work in someone else’s cellar, with Rita Marques at Conceito. It’s been difficult… I’ve never taken easily to being told what to do. Luckily, I’m working in a great cellar with fantastic grapes.

‘The world needs to wake up to Vinho Verde. I just want to glug gallons of it in summer. I always considered myself a better red winemaker. Syrah is the most forgiving grape.

‘All of a sudden, whether in Oslo or New York wine bars, everyone wants a 10.5% alcohol red wine – whether it’s Cinsault, Trousseau or whatever. Our alcohols are coming down at Boekenhoutskloof, but it was never my thing. I like big ripe wines, though I did ask myself whether I was doing it all wrong! But you realise people buy into the Boekenhoutskloof style for a reason.

‘I love people’s energy in the Douro. Like South Africans, they have a lust for life and love of the sun. No one’s going to die of stress!’